Broke the rear end
well it will be needed in the future if you plan on keeping the car and driving it at the track. but rest assure, if you just stay away form the track and dont do launches you will be fine. if i were you, i would just enjoy my car. hwy pulls are ok on it but just avoid the hard driving and you should be good
I'm new to the S2k scene, but I believe alot of the driveline problems people see are driving related.
Yes if you launch @ 8k on slicks you are going to crack something, but if you learn the vehicle and it's capabilites you will go alot further and save some $$ to.
I can't stress enough how important preloading is..it will save alot of stress on your components.
Yes if you launch @ 8k on slicks you are going to crack something, but if you learn the vehicle and it's capabilites you will go alot further and save some $$ to.
I can't stress enough how important preloading is..it will save alot of stress on your components.
Originally Posted by siadam,Jun 16 2008, 10:01 AM
I'm new to the S2k scene, but I believe alot of the driveline problems people see are driving related.
Yes if you launch @ 8k on slicks you are going to crack something, but if you learn the vehicle and it's capabilites you will go alot further and save some $$ to.
I can't stress enough how important preloading is..it will save alot of stress on your components.

Yes if you launch @ 8k on slicks you are going to crack something, but if you learn the vehicle and it's capabilites you will go alot further and save some $$ to.
I can't stress enough how important preloading is..it will save alot of stress on your components.

There is a difference between being easy on your car, beating on your car, and driving improperly. I agree that cars are made to be driven, and driven hard.. and when that is done things are going to break. You just have to deal with it. I also agree that the stock S2000 driveline is comparitively weak. But with that being said, with enough power and still driven improperly, you still can turn that PPG dogbox or Inline-pro diff into an expensive hunk of metal that youll be brushing off the track with a push-broom. You (not "you" specifically, just in general) need to learn how to properly launch/shift for not only best performance, but to be "safe" to the driveline. Properly pre-loaded drivetrain with bias-ply tires will have the least chance of breaking things, as well as give you hard launches. A bias-ply "steet" or full slick is actually safer than a drag radial because it will absorb some of the initial shock.
Originally Posted by Spec_Ops2087,Jun 15 2008, 12:09 AM
The IP kit also comes with axles + hubs + driveshaft which is what your basically paying for. Do you really think they charge 2500+ dollars for a simple mounting bracket?
If you got the puddy diff, then your axles will break next and your going to have to buy 1500 dollar axles that can support the power. The IP kit is a great buy it now, save later as there won't be any addition cost to it down the line because this makes the ENTIRE real end bulletproof.
If you got the puddy diff, then your axles will break next and your going to have to buy 1500 dollar axles that can support the power. The IP kit is a great buy it now, save later as there won't be any addition cost to it down the line because this makes the ENTIRE real end bulletproof.
however, in my hatch axles where just 70 bucks each from the local autozone. how much are stock axles for the S?
currently, i am more inclined to leave the diff or axles as weakest link and replace as needed with quality used ones before making my transmission the weakest link and having to replace that pita/expensive part.



