I believe he used a centerpunch and a right angle reverse drill bit to get it out. Make sure to buy higher grade bolts next time. You might want to retap that one hole if it is stripped too

 

I just had two VTEC bolts break again. This is the forth time for me. It can really be a pain to dig out the broken ends. The last time I used 10.9 grade bolts, used two different torque wrenches to make sure that they were torqued correctly and then safety wired them. This time I will drill out the old holes, install TimeSert inserts, use ARP bolts and torque them to the higher ARP torque settings (should be ok with the steel threads of the inserts instead of the aluminum head) then safety wire them. If it happens again I plan on replacing the front mounting plate with a TTS plate. The TTS mounting plate uses more mounting points and should be more robust. TTS says that the parts to convert to the TTS mounting plate and belt drive system with a spring tension system is about $1500 plus inlet pipe changes (the blower is in a slightly different location).

 

Anyone used stainless steel studs with a nyloc nut&washer instead if its a failure issue,if not perhaps would solve future problems in using them.

 

I'm confused (again). The torque specification for the VTEC solenoid valve bolts is 8.7 lb-ft. Only bolts made of glass will break at this torque. What am I missing here?

-- Chuck

 

I think there is some pull or push force torque being applied by the supercharger or motor to that bracket. And the three little bolts arent robust enough breaking in the long run. Definitely a fault in the design of this part. Cant believe you broke grade 10 bolts. I beleieve the arps are even stronger. Somebody told me grade 10 bolts in that size are actually equivalent to grade 8 or lower....but the arps are true to their grade....dont quote me on this but yea..

 

Guys who are breaking bolts, are you using stock motor mounts? just curious

 

I upgraded to Ballade Sports motor mounts when I did the clutch about 500 miles before the supercharger and broke the included bolts after about 200 miles. A shop near me sells grade 12 Allen-head bolts that I might switch to when I put it all back together.

 

I'm using stock (new) motor mounts.

 

FYI my bolts snapped again today for the second time. Last time was with the grade 5 / 8.8 bolts that came with the kit, this time was the replacement grade 8 / 10.9 bolts that Kraftwerks sent me after the last ordeal. Haven't worked on extracting them yet but I hope I don't have to drill into grade 8 bolts to get them out.

 

If you have enough of the bolt showing and is basically flush with the mating surface of the solenoid or even a bit inside of that surface in the head, you can take a dremel with a cutting disk and cut a line in the middle of the bolt and use a screw driver to remove it.

Also, what is being placed on these bolts to cause them to break?