MattZ28

Each bolt is unfortunately recessed about 1/4" into the hole so I can't use a dremel.

The VTEC solenoid bolts hold the passenger side mounting bracket for the Kraftwerks SC unit.

Spoolin

Well, that's not good at all then. An easy out would be your best bet then but you will have to be careful the drill bit doesn't walk and slip into the hole of the head while drilling it. Take a good pointed punch and tap a nice dot right in the middle of the bolt to help eliminate the bit walking.

As for KW using those bolts for a mount is a bad idea IMO and we are seeing it just isn't working well.

Ivanaguilar

Mine have held up well since switching to steel alloy Grade 12 bolts provided by a shop local to me. Also used red loctite on every bolt involved in the kit this time around and a small washer on the vtec solenoid bolts. So far so good.

Spoolin

Really bad idea using red loctite on the threads. If one breaks, that will be a complete nightmare if not impossible getting it out. Best bet is to use some nickle antiseize on the threads so the steel threads on the bolt don't gall up in the aluminum threads of the head. Another nightmare.

Ivanaguilar

Forgot to mention I didn’t use it on the solenoid bolts, but did on the other bolts utilized in the kit. So far it’s been holding up very well this time around. Thank you for the heads up!

beechx1

A trick that I have used to protect the treads is to go to the hardware store and get a steel roll pin with the outside diameter just big enough that a 6mm nut will fit over it (the bolts are 6mm). Then put the roll pin in the hole with the broken bolt. The drill bit goes down the inside of the roll pin. The roll pin protects the aluminum threads. Buy a new drill bit for this. A sharp new one makes a big difference when drilling into a bolt.

MattZ28

Yeah, I broke about 5 drill bits when I had to extract one broken grade 5 bolt that broke before. Grade 8 bolts aren't going to be easy...I ordered a 2mm diameter solid carbide drill bit so I'm hoping that will work.

I don't have room to swing a hammer or anything really so I don't think I'll be able to dimple the bolt, unless you have any other suggestions.

Spoolin

Read the above post. That is a great idea that will also work.

MattZ28

Just to update, I was able to extract the broken bolts without issue, but it did take awhile. The carbide bit that I purchased snapped in half as soon as I pressed it up against the broken bolt...didn't even get to start the drill yet. I was able to use a few standard bits to drill into the bolts, and an extractor grabbed and pulled them right out. Using the roll pin worked very well to protect the surrounding threads.

Rented an OEM Tool thread repair set from Autozone which had the correct M6 x 1.0 thread chaser I needed. Flushed the holes thoroughly with WD40, ran the chaser through little by little, pausing to flush the holes with more WD40 as things progressed. Once the thread chaser was run in and out completely clean, I cleaned the holes with brake cleaner and compressed air.

Installed new ARP bolts with blue loctite and tightened them a bit more than the 9-10 ftlb torque spec or whatever it was. I also let the loctite cure for 24 hours before starting the engine, which I didn't do last time...fingers crossed.

Spoolin

Good deal man. Glad to hear it all worked out well.