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Built bottom end or not?

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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 09:18 AM
  #1  
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Default Built bottom end or not?

Looking at bottom end options for my turbo setup and im tossing up if it's worth going with Mahle pistons and new rods or keeping the standard bottom end. The plan is for a reliable daily around the 400hp mark. I think the standard bottom end has more than proven it self for that sort of power but some insurance would be nice. Maybe even standard pistons with some new connecting rods. I was first planning on sleeving the block and going all out but just having the block sleeved i'm looking at an extra $2k and that's a lot of money if i don't need to spend it. Also is it advisable to replace the stock pistons with new ones? I didn't think it would be needed but after some searching on here i did see some people suggesting it. Right now i'm leaning towards just a freshly rebuilt engine with ARP headstuds and ACL bearings.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Stoof01
Looking at bottom end options for my turbo setup and im tossing up if it's worth going with Mahle pistons and new rods or keeping the standard bottom end. The plan is for a reliable daily around the 400hp mark. I think the standard bottom end has more than proven it self for that sort of power but some insurance would be nice. Maybe even standard pistons with some new connecting rods. I was first planning on sleeving the block and going all out but just having the block sleeved i'm looking at an extra $2k and that's a lot of money if i don't need to spend it. Also is it advisable to replace the stock pistons with new ones? I didn't think it would be needed but after some searching on here i did see some people suggesting it. Right now i'm leaning towards just a freshly rebuilt engine with ARP headstuds and ACL bearings.
Not sure what your particuarl situation is but I'm getting my bottom end rebuilt now (Mahle pistons/rings 9.5.1, ACL bearings, BC rods, ARP/L19/H11s) but ONLY because the head was already off as the deck needed planed. I would have left it completely stock if not for all the BS with the head lifting....didn't think I would need the headstuds but my particular build didn't last long at 500 whp before trouble started.
Good luck with whatever you decide but unless you already have it apart, why not let it go until it needs it. It might not ever need it but you might want to save up for the day it comes !!!!
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 09:38 AM
  #3  
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If you only want 400whp I would leave the block alone. Plenty of people are making that with pump gas on a stock bottom end.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 09:58 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Stoof01
The plan is for a reliable daily around the 400hp mark.

You're not getting any more reliable than stock, with anything OTHER than stock.

Leave it alone, and you will be happy.

Honda does an absolute PHENOMENAL job from the factory.


Opening it up and changing the internals for 400whp DD is the last thing you want to do.

470whp Daily driven here, with plans for 650+ on race, I've built plenty of engines in the past, and I couldn't tell you how far down my list that is for this car. Especially based on the fact that it will see street and DD conditions, not a full on race/rape machine.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 12:54 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by OHclassic
Originally Posted by Stoof01' timestamp='1354472313' post='22185054
Looking at bottom end options for my turbo setup and im tossing up if it's worth going with Mahle pistons and new rods or keeping the standard bottom end. The plan is for a reliable daily around the 400hp mark. I think the standard bottom end has more than proven it self for that sort of power but some insurance would be nice. Maybe even standard pistons with some new connecting rods. I was first planning on sleeving the block and going all out but just having the block sleeved i'm looking at an extra $2k and that's a lot of money if i don't need to spend it. Also is it advisable to replace the stock pistons with new ones? I didn't think it would be needed but after some searching on here i did see some people suggesting it. Right now i'm leaning towards just a freshly rebuilt engine with ARP headstuds and ACL bearings.
Not sure what your particuarl situation is but I'm getting my bottom end rebuilt now (Mahle pistons/rings 9.5.1, ACL bearings, BC rods, ARP/L19/H11s) but ONLY because the head was already off as the deck needed planed. I would have left it completely stock if not for all the BS with the head lifting....didn't think I would need the headstuds but my particular build didn't last long at 500 whp before trouble started. />
Good luck with whatever you decide but unless you already have it apart, why not let it go until it needs it. It might not ever need it but you might want to save up for the day it comes !!!!

You should try to be more in the 10/10.5 range. I know it sounds wrong but dynamic compression drives a static 9.5 down into the 7range lol.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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I am just worried as the motor has about 100,000 miles on it. It is running perfectly now so i guess i will throw some boost in and if i have any issues i will take it from there. My biggest problem is i have people in my ear saying that the stock motor will not take that sort of power, admittedly none of them have working with hondas. Do you think a new head gasket and studs are worth it? Its not much to knock the head off and do those.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Stoof01
I am just worried as the motor has about 100,000 miles on it. It is running perfectly now so i guess i will throw some boost in and if i have any issues i will take it from there. My biggest problem is i have people in my ear saying that the stock motor will not take that sort of power, admittedly none of them have working with hondas. Do you think a new head gasket and studs are worth it? Its not much to knock the head off and do those.
Well in few weeks im going for 750,hp on 124k f20c on e85 all i done was head studs titanium dual valve springs and retainers
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 10:04 PM
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Yer valve retainers are a must for sure on an AP1. I'm going for the Brian Crower dual springs with steel retainers.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Stoof01
Yer valve retainers are a must for sure on an AP1. I'm going for the Brian Crower dual springs with steel retainers.
Ya i got all supertech in my head ti retainers tho and just got me a benson block for when im dome with this motor or it goes haha

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