Plugged wastegate...
Before:



... 130 kpa (4 psi) from 4k to 6k constant...
After:



Ok at least I see 10 psi with WG corked...

So wg is really set for 4 psi. Ok. Gotta change this but it may be tough...
Also vtec @ 4k only making things worse. I need to tune it but first gotta make my WG to be 10 psi.

I'm under impression it leaks right away - 4 psi sounds weak tension to me.

Think it makes sense? Or should I leave it at 4 psi and rely on boost controller?

 

Am I the only one here who doesn't like the manifold?

Sorry man. No offence

 

Are you using the stock wastegate actuator, because that thing is ABSOLUTE junk. Get rid of it, it's worthless. Get the turbosmart actuator. It's what I have on my EFR and it works much more reliably over a larger psi range.

 

Pretty sure it's because of the crazy about of success they've been having with the new KW kits. I sure if you catch him in a non-busy season, he can figure out something for you

 

I'd start with attempt to configure this one. In a long run it will be boost controller either way, WG will work in on/off mode.

 

It's been some time since I've played with an internal WG but it sounds like weak tension like you said. I'd also be surprised there's such a low spring (4 psi sounds really low, i thought most are 7psi+). Is there a nut to adjust the actuator to take up some of the slack? I'd try adjusting that and go from there. If not, next best option is run a cheap manual boost controller. A spring with a ball valve should do the trick and they can be had for ~$50. Electronic boost controllers are nice, but I'd definitely try a manual option first after trying to adjust the internal wastegate.

I'd say call BW and see what they say.. it's their turbo. They can tell you what the different spring options are and how much adjustability you can have w/ adjusting the actuator rod..

 

 

It can be adjusted but I can't reach the nut without removing turbo. I will try to squeeze a pad of some sort between WG can and rack to "lift" can, but I can't reach other nut to unscrew it...
Any ideas how can I reach this nut:

 

Finally got my car back couple weeks ago, and while it s apart anyway decided to address WG issue.

Reached to bolts to figure out good half of them were loose bot holding turbo to volute housing and housing to header. Ok, will make it easier to remove. Wonder how it did not leak ...

Configuration turned such as it actually allowed me to remove compressor housing, turbo, oil adapter and finally wastegate - one by one leaving turbo housing on.

WG was a bitch to remove (I will re-design so it alone can be easily removed/configured without touching anything else), and was pretty much loose - way underloaded so I assume it leaked right away preventing proper spool. Can't wait to see new spool when i setup it properly.

I also noticed I have over 1" between turbo and frame, moving it away from block would both give better access for service purposes and allow to arrange smoother header piping. Especially with 7163 instead of 7670. Actually that one would probably be possible to make equal length or almost equal. And WG rod could be left straight, just extended to put it in front of block (probably mounting it on block instead of turbo body).

So if anyone decides to go this route: get remote oil filter adapter, get 7163, remove IWG can and bracket, position 7163 in front of engine mount (allow 1-1.5" clearance of any hot part - more than enough to keep mount from melting esp if pipes are heat-wrapped/painted), tilt turbo little bit upward (so you don't have to modify subframe in case you wanna run intercooler pipe underneath crossmember) - this also will allow more clearance for intake pipe (having mushroom right there around exhaust area sucks), make bracket to mount IWG on block and optionally - support turbo with another bracket to block like LHT did for me.

Very rigid, surprisingly easy access to all components, very cool engine bay with minimum piping length, and possibility to keep almost stock look (or use huge bay over crossmember for whatever other purposes)

As for numbers, i didn't boost more than 12 psi for slipping clutch, that was achieved around 4700 rpm but I had crappy low profile air filter right there in exhaust area and wg that leaked right away for poor setup. Plus pretty much stock exhaust. Once I put things back together and configure it properly, I hope to get some nice numbers.

 

Isn't what you've described the SOS max kit?