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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 06:47 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Bigfootexpert
If you want to assure good bonding and seal of the Head Gasket, always spray your gasket with copper spray, makes quite the difference.
Wha???

Did The F20/f22, k20, k24, h22, b16, b18, d16, d17, d15, r18, L15, j32, etc etc etc, ANY of those ever come with that from the factory? nope.

where is that info listed in the FSM of the company who built the engine? nowhere.

reason being, the oem material that covers the oem head gasket does not take to the copper spray. that stuff is for 500 year old muscle cars and iron block mitsubishis.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:13 PM
  #12  
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Hmmm well good info. The material you're talking about is the black stuff then on the OEM correct?

Bigfootexpert as I understand happens to be a fan of aftermarket head gaskets which might not be using it..... perhaps that's why he's a fan. I've used it before with good luck but doesn't mean that it would have been worse without.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:21 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k
Hmmm well good info. The material you're talking about is the black stuff then on the OEM correct?

Bigfootexpert as I understand happens to be a fan of aftermarket head gaskets which might not be using it..... perhaps that's why he's a fan. I've used it before with good luck but doesn't mean that it would have been worse without.
I think your over exaggerating how much I cleaned up the block. And yes you can do much more damage with a scotchbrite pad than a flat sanding block since its much easier to gouge the surface than to distribute pressure evenly.

Also the guy who leant me the sanding block is the one who told me to use it and builds the k24 race engines for the Ariel atom as well as many other engines around the world. I guess he must be a moron too?
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:30 PM
  #14  
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I'm not over exaggerating it, I've no idea how much you sanded it, I hope it was very little for your sake. I just want to point out it's not good practice that's all.

..... Go sand a piece of .001 Iron with a piece of scotchbrite, call me next week when your arms are tired. I figure 800grit wet is possibly comparable but either way, not a great idea, better to scrape the material off with a gasket scraper etc.

Building K24s is....pretty low tech. That means very little to me. I can build you a 600whp K20/24 hybrid right now with my eyes closed and I don't consider myself a great engine builder. It's fine if you're very careful, it IS capable of hammering your block and creating a leaking HG though if you go overboard sanding away.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k
Sanding block means nothing unless the block was larger than the entire head so that you were evenly removing material. Removing the gasket material prior should have been done with a sharp scraper. Scotchbrite is a much better option, it's plastic material thus it doesn't actually remove metal really, just the gasket material.

It'll probably hold but I wouldn't suggest messing with that again, if anything it'll cause more problems than it fixes.

I'm aware of what they supply, their peanut butter is INFERIOR! Simple as that. You should use what ARP uses, peanut butter lube is old skool stuff from back in the day, it's not a good choice. Again, it'll probably hold but there was better options. In any case, they spec'd it to you with that lube in mind so all will be well though you can bet the clamping force is not even across all those bolts.

Most importantly I'm going over this so that some moron out there on the internet doesn't read this and think that's what he should do is copy your actions.

-Greg
1. Scotchbrite comes in various grits even as low as 80 grit. It is very much equivalent to sandpaper except it is flexible.
2. FullBlown is running more psi and whp than 98% of s2000 owners and has yet to lift the head with the supplied torque and lube so why question it?
3. Theres 100 ways to skin a cat. This is how I assembled my engine. No two builders will use the exact same method.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:34 PM
  #16  
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I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.

The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:41 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k
..... Go sand a piece of .001 Iron with a piece of scotchbrite, call me next week when your arms are tired.

The guy who lent you the block building K24's doesn't impress me much, that's ridiculously simple motor. I would wonder why he hasn't found a better way to remove the gasket material and question his skills.

Hopefully you did the absolute minimum with sand paper, my guess is it did no harm, still that's not "good practice" to be spreading on a forum.

I've got friends who worked on world champion winning race cars and I would bet strongly they'd agree with me. Either way who cares. Take it easy on the block, scrape the black material off and bolt the head on. Good luck with it.


Your reading skills are failing you on many levels. I have repeatedly stated I did not go crazy with the sanding.

You do know "Scotchbrite" comes in many grits and most use the brown which is 80 grit? 80 grit vs 600 hmm i wonder which will be more abrasive?

I don't care for your pissing contest. This is my procedure. Assemble yours as you wish!
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.

The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
Yeah I'm with you on that. I did scrape as much as I could remove with the blade and clean it with alcohol. The stuff that most people hit with a scotchbrite pad afterwards I just did a brief cleanup with the block. I'm really careful when it comes to mating surfaces so when I say I didn't go crazy with the sanding I most certainly mean it.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:50 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by o'malley_808
Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k' timestamp='1335657218' post='21651976

Sanding block means nothing unless the block was larger than the entire head so that you were evenly removing material. Removing the gasket material prior should have been done with a sharp scraper. Scotchbrite is a much better option, it's plastic material thus it doesn't actually remove metal really, just the gasket material.

It'll probably hold but I wouldn't suggest messing with that again, if anything it'll cause more problems than it fixes.

I'm aware of what they supply, their peanut butter is INFERIOR! Simple as that. You should use what ARP uses, peanut butter lube is old skool stuff from back in the day, it's not a good choice. Again, it'll probably hold but there was better options. In any case, they spec'd it to you with that lube in mind so all will be well though you can bet the clamping force is not even across all those bolts.

Most importantly I'm going over this so that some moron out there on the internet doesn't read this and think that's what he should do is copy your actions.

-Greg
1. Scotchbrite comes in various grits even as low as 80 grit. It is very much equivalent to sandpaper except it is flexible.
2. FullBlown is running more psi and whp than 98% of s2000 owners and has yet to lift the head with the supplied torque and lube so why question it?
3. Theres 100 ways to skin a cat. This is how I assembled my engine. No two builders will use the exact same method.

1 Scotchbrite as a MATERIAL however is different and that matters. Either way, not the point.
2 Fullblown is jack shit in the real world of racing, I like most everything they do but they aren't an F1 team or anything. I'm not only questioning they're lube I know full well why it's better on a very technical level. Read up and you will too.
3 I already said I think you'll be fine.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by o'malley_808
Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k' timestamp='1335670240' post='21652368
..... Go sand a piece of .001 Iron with a piece of scotchbrite, call me next week when your arms are tired.

The guy who lent you the block building K24's doesn't impress me much, that's ridiculously simple motor. I would wonder why he hasn't found a better way to remove the gasket material and question his skills.

Hopefully you did the absolute minimum with sand paper, my guess is it did no harm, still that's not "good practice" to be spreading on a forum.

I've got friends who worked on world champion winning race cars and I would bet strongly they'd agree with me. Either way who cares. Take it easy on the block, scrape the black material off and bolt the head on. Good luck with it.


Your reading skills are failing you on many levels. I have repeatedly stated I did not go crazy with the sanding.

You do know "Scotchbrite" comes in many grits and most use the brown which is 80 grit? 80 grit vs 600 hmm i wonder which will be more abrasive?

I don't care for your pissing contest. This is my procedure. Assemble yours as you wish!
Please stop taking this so personally. My only point here is sanding a block isn't good practice. THAT IS ALL. The "grit" is measured differently if you want to get technical, think about the way it's formed for starters. I prefer a scraper, sanding is fine, does make a mess of sanded particles however.
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