Byebye headgasket problems! :)
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Originally Posted by Spoolin' timestamp='1335670477' post='21652372
I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.
The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
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Originally Posted by o'malley_808' timestamp='1335670433' post='21652371
[quote name='05TurboS2k' timestamp='1335657218' post='21651976']
Sanding block means nothing unless the block was larger than the entire head so that you were evenly removing material. Removing the gasket material prior should have been done with a sharp scraper. Scotchbrite is a much better option, it's plastic material thus it doesn't actually remove metal really, just the gasket material.
It'll probably hold but I wouldn't suggest messing with that again, if anything it'll cause more problems than it fixes.
I'm aware of what they supply, their peanut butter is INFERIOR! Simple as that. You should use what ARP uses, peanut butter lube is old skool stuff from back in the day, it's not a good choice. Again, it'll probably hold but there was better options. In any case, they spec'd it to you with that lube in mind so all will be well though you can bet the clamping force is not even across all those bolts.
Most importantly I'm going over this so that some moron out there on the internet doesn't read this and think that's what he should do is copy your actions.
-Greg
Sanding block means nothing unless the block was larger than the entire head so that you were evenly removing material. Removing the gasket material prior should have been done with a sharp scraper. Scotchbrite is a much better option, it's plastic material thus it doesn't actually remove metal really, just the gasket material.
It'll probably hold but I wouldn't suggest messing with that again, if anything it'll cause more problems than it fixes.
I'm aware of what they supply, their peanut butter is INFERIOR! Simple as that. You should use what ARP uses, peanut butter lube is old skool stuff from back in the day, it's not a good choice. Again, it'll probably hold but there was better options. In any case, they spec'd it to you with that lube in mind so all will be well though you can bet the clamping force is not even across all those bolts.
Most importantly I'm going over this so that some moron out there on the internet doesn't read this and think that's what he should do is copy your actions.
-Greg
2. FullBlown is running more psi and whp than 98% of s2000 owners and has yet to lift the head with the supplied torque and lube so why question it?
3. Theres 100 ways to skin a cat. This is how I assembled my engine. No two builders will use the exact same method.
1 Scotchbrite as a MATERIAL however is different and that matters. Either way, not the point.
2 Fullblown is jack shit in the real world of racing, I like most everything they do but they aren't an F1 team or anything. I'm not only questioning they're lube I know full well why it's better on a very technical level. Read up and you will too.
3 I already said I think you'll be fine.
[/quote]
Yeah I was with you on the ARP thread me and you basically started. I used the ARP lube on the ARP studs I had before and watched the YouTube vid of the comparison.
Its not FullBlown who made the studs its A1 technologies which does a bunch of racing and aircraft products. Much like how there is two torque specs for using engine oil vs moly lube I didn't want to try and use a different lube (ARP moly being better) and overshoot my torque spec.
With a final torque spec of 100ft/lbs I went on the basis that friction/bind with the peanut butter is accounted for.
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Originally Posted by o'malley_808' timestamp='1335671091' post='21652393
[quote name='Spoolin' timestamp='1335670477' post='21652372']
I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.
The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.
The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
[/quote]
Yeah you could definitely make things ugly if you went crazy with sanding anywhere on any mating surfaces. Most shouldn't need to do anything but after 2 blown spacer headgaskets and copper spray there was a bunch of crap that a razor or alcohol wasnt cleaning so I did a brief since the block is still in the car. I wouldn't suggest it to most though as like you said you can screw things up real quick. Although you have to agree you can screw things up with a tough scotchbrite pad also.
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Originally Posted by o'malley_808' timestamp='1335671091' post='21652393
[quote name='Spoolin' timestamp='1335670477' post='21652372']
I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.
The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.
The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
[/quote]
Yeah you could definitely make things ugly if you went crazy with sanding anywhere on any mating surfaces. Most shouldn't need to do anything but after 2 blown spacer headgaskets and copper spray there was a bunch of crap that a razor or alcohol wasnt cleaning so I did a brief since the block is still in the car. I wouldn't suggest it to most though as like you said you can screw things up real quick. Although you have to agree you can screw things up with a tough scotchbrite pad also.
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From: Seattle / Kalifornia
Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k' timestamp='1335671592' post='21652400
[quote name='o'malley_808' timestamp='1335671091' post='21652393']
[quote name='Spoolin' timestamp='1335670477' post='21652372']
I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.
The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
[quote name='Spoolin' timestamp='1335670477' post='21652372']
I agree that block sanding the deck wasn't the best way to remove the left over gasket crap, but you should be fine.
The way I do it is just take a few new straight razor blades and pull them across the deck surfaces to remove and clean the headgasket leftovers and then clean it good with alcohol. I've had really good success just doing it this way.
[/quote]
Yeah you could definitely make things ugly if you went crazy with sanding anywhere on any mating surfaces. Most shouldn't need to do anything but after 2 blown spacer headgaskets and copper spray there was a bunch of crap that a razor or alcohol wasnt cleaning so I did a brief since the block is still in the car. I wouldn't suggest it to most though as like you said you can screw things up real quick. Although you have to agree you can screw things up with a tough scotchbrite pad also.
[/quote]
Sure, with a complete moron at the tool a gasket scraper could probably even screw things up.
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good lord. You'll be fine o malley. The point of this entire argument is that it's not best practice and you could potentially damage something. I understand what you did because I have done the same with 800 grit paper with only a few strokes to remove copper spray residue and I was fine. No I'm not going to remove the block to have it resurfaced.To 05turbo- you would have to do some serious sanding to remove enough material to cause any real issues and that's just simply retarded. I think we understand your concern with sanding.
