Within just five months, my SOS sport clutch became more and more difficult to drive... Can't tell yet whether it's the fault of the clutch or not. This could also be caused by poor installation. The throwout bearing is dragging on the mainshaft collar and the car has a shuddering vibration whenever I accelerate (gently or hard, doesn't matter). I also think it's starting to slip and not put all the power down.

I'm going to have to replace the bearing/collar, and am thinking I'd might as well do the clutch at the same time. Right now I'm leaning ACT PP. Ugh. There's nothing like paying for two clutch jobs within five months!

 

whoa, that doesn't sound good..

mine is holding up ok, just held 300 wtq on the dyno fine and i'll be putting more through it.

good luck with your next clutch

 

My SOS sport clutch is holding up good at 14psi.. 6k NA & 10k S/C'd.
Yes it kind of sucks in reverse, but the Comp1620 was worse.

 

I was thinking of the Stage 2 (8023-2100). It's rated to hold the power I currently have, but I'm planning to go turbo again next year... That's why I was considering ACT.

The thing is, I won't know what's going on until I get the transmission off the engine. And at that point if I need a new clutch, I don't want to have to wait around for one...

 

The SOS sport clutch is holding 300wtq for you? That's awesome! Good to know. Yeah I've been very happy with mine.

 

I got the latest ACT pressure plate, factory revised clutch disc, and new oem throwout bearing. This is a very popular combo that promises no shuddering or vibration and holds excellent for 500 horsepower or less.

 

Just a recommendation, on Mazda miatas any application of s heavy duty clutch resulted in the clutch ignition switch being overrided as to prevent wear on the thrust bearing when starting the engine cold.

 

I don't know about S2k's, but with a heavy duty pressure plate, might not be good on the engine to turn it over cold with the clutch pushed in...

 

The only problem i have with the CC stage 2 clutch is that it's made of full kevlar. You take past it's limit and its fried.

 

I'd like to know more about that. Past its limit meaning spinning it too high? Or asking it to hold too much torque? Or using it for racing vs. normal driving?

Fried as in burnt clutch? Or permanent failure/damage? Or just weakened so it slips more?