Comptech kit installed now issues
Just had my kit installed but my car isn't running correctly
First problem was I had a cel come on for high voltage from my esm, I adjusted proper voltage because it was higher than it was suppose to be due to the fact that this kit is for ap2 and my S is an ap1.
Now cel is gone and hasn't come back which is good, however my car is still not running right
So far I checked for any vacuum leaks and nothing obvious, I checked to see if my spark plugs were good and they are, did a map wack as well as remove and clean TB
Also my battery had died so I took it to kragens so they could charge it and when I picked it up they said it was fully charged but for some strange reason the battery got really hot which they said was unusual don't know if this has anything to do with problem
I'm running out of ideas as to why my car isn't running. I start the car and everything checks out but after a few seconds my gauge reads too high if I give it gas little to no response and half the time the car just shuts off without bogging.
Any ideas as to what else I should try? Here's the video
http://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/...503_201310.mp4
First problem was I had a cel come on for high voltage from my esm, I adjusted proper voltage because it was higher than it was suppose to be due to the fact that this kit is for ap2 and my S is an ap1.
Now cel is gone and hasn't come back which is good, however my car is still not running right
So far I checked for any vacuum leaks and nothing obvious, I checked to see if my spark plugs were good and they are, did a map wack as well as remove and clean TB
Also my battery had died so I took it to kragens so they could charge it and when I picked it up they said it was fully charged but for some strange reason the battery got really hot which they said was unusual don't know if this has anything to do with problem
I'm running out of ideas as to why my car isn't running. I start the car and everything checks out but after a few seconds my gauge reads too high if I give it gas little to no response and half the time the car just shuts off without bogging.
Any ideas as to what else I should try? Here's the video
http://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/...503_201310.mp4
Get a new batt and see if there are any local members to physically troubleshoot your setup. I know sc and tc setups like i onow my name, but online diagnostics rely on the amount of detail supplied by the person in distress.
Also, post your vid and youtube and then post it in here. Mp4 file links arent the best.
Also, post your vid and youtube and then post it in here. Mp4 file links arent the best.
Who did the install? How long has it been on the car? Show us photos from under the hood of key parts of the SC kit. Fuel rail, hoses, lines. How is your wideband hooked up ?
I believe your wideband may not be connected correct, its in P00 mode which is for use with a stand alone ecu. According to when I spoke to AEM last the tech advised me that if I am to use the wideband with the OEM ECU and with the OEM O2 sensor removed the controller needed to be set to P04(making it narrowband). The best way really to run the wideband with OEM ECU is to have it wired separately just to the gauge(as a passive display only) so you can view your AFR, but retain the OEM o2 sensors as well so the ECU can work correctly. This would require you to have a 3rd bung welded into your exhaust (the bung is included with the UEGO Wideband kit).
I would highly suggest running a standalone like Haltech or AEM EMS so you can use o2 feedback and actually tune the car. Running a standalone is expensive but you have already spent this much on boost, you might as well do it right instead of cutting corners. As it sits right now the car has no clue what your AFRs are, the gauge shows full lean so I say that you are causing harm running the engine like this even at idle. If I were you I would take the car to a reputable shop who is familiar with how to install this kit and set it up correctly before you destroy your engine which will cost you far more than the shop labor to make this kit work right. Just my $.02
I believe your wideband may not be connected correct, its in P00 mode which is for use with a stand alone ecu. According to when I spoke to AEM last the tech advised me that if I am to use the wideband with the OEM ECU and with the OEM O2 sensor removed the controller needed to be set to P04(making it narrowband). The best way really to run the wideband with OEM ECU is to have it wired separately just to the gauge(as a passive display only) so you can view your AFR, but retain the OEM o2 sensors as well so the ECU can work correctly. This would require you to have a 3rd bung welded into your exhaust (the bung is included with the UEGO Wideband kit).
I would highly suggest running a standalone like Haltech or AEM EMS so you can use o2 feedback and actually tune the car. Running a standalone is expensive but you have already spent this much on boost, you might as well do it right instead of cutting corners. As it sits right now the car has no clue what your AFRs are, the gauge shows full lean so I say that you are causing harm running the engine like this even at idle. If I were you I would take the car to a reputable shop who is familiar with how to install this kit and set it up correctly before you destroy your engine which will cost you far more than the shop labor to make this kit work right. Just my $.02
Trending Topics
If his OE O2 sensors are connected, the car will/should read AFR from the narrowband as normal. If he replaced an OE ECU with the wideband...the OE ECU is not going to deal with that right.
My guess as to the possible problems...
Are the injectors new, or recently installed after cleaning? If on the OE ECU, non-OEM injectors will not work right. If they are new/cleaned OE injectors, the car will run crappy for a little while...at least that was my experience...my problems were similar to this and disappeared in 10 minutes, but the symptoms were low response and the car dying after installing my cleaned OE injectors. If I had to guess, it's air in the fuel rail and/or injectors.
Is your supercharger bypass hooked up correctly? This is critical, as at idle or low RPMs, the bypass valve/blow off valve needs vacuum to operate. If your engine RPM doesn't drop to ~1K after starting after 3 minutes or so, it sounds like you have the "full charge" coming out of the blower and into your motor. You give it gas and it leans out, either not responding or shutting off.
My guess at this point is the 2nd. If you forget to hook up the vacuum line or hook it up wrong the valve won't open and the engine will always be under boost...even at idle.
Of course, the descriptions given and the video really don't tell anyone much at all.
Also, since you say you have an AP2 kit on an AP1, are you running that kit's pulley and fuel pressure regulator? They won't work so well on an AP1, especially the fuel pressure regulator...you need an AP1 model. Running the AP2 pulley on a stock kit is not advisable, at least until you know your system on standard boost works and you have fuel headroom.
Originally Posted by Reapur' timestamp='1336201390' post='21671466
As it sits right now the car has no clue what your AFRs are, the gauge shows full lean so I say that you are causing harm running the engine like this even at idle.
If his OE O2 sensors are connected, the car will/should read AFR from the narrowband as normal. If he replaced an OE ECU with the wideband...the OE ECU is not going to deal with that right.
My guess as to the possible problems...
Are the injectors new, or recently installed after cleaning? If on the OE ECU, non-OEM injectors will not work right. If they are new/cleaned OE injectors, the car will run crappy for a little while...at least that was my experience...my problems were similar to this and disappeared in 10 minutes, but the symptoms were low response and the car dying after installing my cleaned OE injectors. If I had to guess, it's air in the fuel rail and/or injectors.
Is your supercharger bypass hooked up correctly? This is critical, as at idle or low RPMs, the bypass valve/blow off valve needs vacuum to operate. If your engine RPM doesn't drop to ~1K after starting after 3 minutes or so, it sounds like you have the "full charge" coming out of the blower and into your motor. You give it gas and it leans out, either not responding or shutting off.
My guess at this point is the 2nd. If you forget to hook up the vacuum line or hook it up wrong the valve won't open and the engine will always be under boost...even at idle.
Of course, the descriptions given and the video really don't tell anyone much at all.
Also, since you say you have an AP2 kit on an AP1, are you running that kit's pulley and fuel pressure regulator? They won't work so well on an AP1, especially the fuel pressure regulator...you need an AP1 model. Running the AP2 pulley on a stock kit is not advisable, at least until you know your system on standard boost works and you have fuel headroom.
As it sits right now the OP really has not given any useable info to us to further troubleshoot the issue.


