Comptech kit installed now issues
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From: Santa Clara CA
Originally Posted by Reapur' timestamp='1336201390' post='21671466
As it sits right now the car has no clue what your AFRs are, the gauge shows full lean so I say that you are causing harm running the engine like this even at idle.
If his OE O2 sensors are connected, the car will/should read AFR from the narrowband as normal. If he replaced an OE ECU with the wideband...the OE ECU is not going to deal with that right.
My guess as to the possible problems...
Are the injectors new, or recently installed after cleaning? If on the OE ECU, non-OEM injectors will not work right. If they are new/cleaned OE injectors, the car will run crappy for a little while...at least that was my experience...my problems were similar to this and disappeared in 10 minutes, but the symptoms were low response and the car dying after installing my cleaned OE injectors. If I had to guess, it's air in the fuel rail and/or injectors.
Is your supercharger bypass hooked up correctly? This is critical, as at idle or low RPMs, the bypass valve/blow off valve needs vacuum to operate. If your engine RPM doesn't drop to ~1K after starting after 3 minutes or so, it sounds like you have the "full charge" coming out of the blower and into your motor. You give it gas and it leans out, either not responding or shutting off.
My guess at this point is the 2nd. If you forget to hook up the vacuum line or hook it up wrong the valve won't open and the engine will always be under boost...even at idle.
Of course, the descriptions given and the video really don't tell anyone much at all.
Also, since you say you have an AP2 kit on an AP1, are you running that kit's pulley and fuel pressure regulator? They won't work so well on an AP1, especially the fuel pressure regulator...you need an AP1 model. Running the AP2 pulley on a stock kit is not advisable, at least until you know your system on standard boost works and you have fuel headroom.
Not too sure if the bypass is hooked up correctly here's a pic of how it sits
Yes the kit is using all ap2 parts in using smaller pulley and increased fpr
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From: Santa Clara CA
Here's how it's hooked up, not sure if this is correct? The ground wire is hooked up to ground and the power is hooked up to the black and yellow wire
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Who wired that??? You cut into the harness for power? There is an open 12v power supply available from the fuse panel right under the dash board near the ECU. All you need is a spade connector on the end of the red wire.
As for the 3rd bung, did you have one added to the exhaust? Is the factory Primary O2 still on the car or has it been removed?
As for the 3rd bung, did you have one added to the exhaust? Is the factory Primary O2 still on the car or has it been removed?
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From: Santa Clara CA
Who wired that??? You cut into the harness for power? There is an open 12v power supply available from the fuse panel right under the dash board near the ECU. All you need is a spade connector on the end of the red wire.
As for the 3rd bung, did you have one added to the exhaust? Is the factory Primary O2 still on the car or has it been removed?
As for the 3rd bung, did you have one added to the exhaust? Is the factory Primary O2 still on the car or has it been removed?
Maybe something is causing a shortage?
Yes I believe a third bung was added to the exhaust
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From: Vienna, VA
undo that awful wiring job and if I were you, I'd find a different shop.
I don't think damage was done from that wiring, but it just speaks to a total unfamiliarity with how to do even basic electrical work. You don't tap an existing wire for power when that wire is in a critical harness like the ECU...also there's a power port right near there as mentioned already that will provide much more amperage. And with the sole means of tapping that power lead being a nick and electrical tape...that's scary.
As an aside, I know most shops won't do this type of work, but it seems that 8/10 of the shops that will are a bunch of hacks that I would never let touch my car. There's a reason many if not most in the FI section do their own work...we just don't trust most of the places that do this type of work.
Also, is there a fuse ANYWHERE on the wire going to the gauge? The wire going to the gauge is also going to the O2 sensor, routed outside your car and around hot exhaust components...if it melts and the wire shorts, you could be looking at a lot of damage...especially since the ECU wire was used to provide the power. Fuse that ASAP after you tap the ignition lead by the fuse box...10A.
Now, I see some other wires there...like 3 of them. I'm assuming that's for the Comptech ESM...those would be wired to the ECU. I wouldn't feel right using crimps on that, though, but I'm sure it's fine. You'll just need to verify it is hooked up right...the instructions will say what color wire goes where.
As to the O2 sensors, the car has 2...one before the cat and one in it. The third one (it may not be vertical) is what would be hooked up to your AFR gauge...it'll have a much beefier connector with more wires than the OEM ones...and the O2 sensor should look bigger and newer. The OEM O2 sensors MUST be hooked to their connectors so the ECU can read them.
When/if you do remove the wideband for testing, plug the hole in the bung with the provided hex-keyed plug...do not leave a hole in your manifold.
I don't think damage was done from that wiring, but it just speaks to a total unfamiliarity with how to do even basic electrical work. You don't tap an existing wire for power when that wire is in a critical harness like the ECU...also there's a power port right near there as mentioned already that will provide much more amperage. And with the sole means of tapping that power lead being a nick and electrical tape...that's scary.
As an aside, I know most shops won't do this type of work, but it seems that 8/10 of the shops that will are a bunch of hacks that I would never let touch my car. There's a reason many if not most in the FI section do their own work...we just don't trust most of the places that do this type of work.
Also, is there a fuse ANYWHERE on the wire going to the gauge? The wire going to the gauge is also going to the O2 sensor, routed outside your car and around hot exhaust components...if it melts and the wire shorts, you could be looking at a lot of damage...especially since the ECU wire was used to provide the power. Fuse that ASAP after you tap the ignition lead by the fuse box...10A.
Now, I see some other wires there...like 3 of them. I'm assuming that's for the Comptech ESM...those would be wired to the ECU. I wouldn't feel right using crimps on that, though, but I'm sure it's fine. You'll just need to verify it is hooked up right...the instructions will say what color wire goes where.
As to the O2 sensors, the car has 2...one before the cat and one in it. The third one (it may not be vertical) is what would be hooked up to your AFR gauge...it'll have a much beefier connector with more wires than the OEM ones...and the O2 sensor should look bigger and newer. The OEM O2 sensors MUST be hooked to their connectors so the ECU can read them.
When/if you do remove the wideband for testing, plug the hole in the bung with the provided hex-keyed plug...do not leave a hole in your manifold.