The SOS vmount is the only viable solution for anyone that want to track there turbo s2000. The problem with that is it won't fit with any sidewinder manifolds.

 

In my opinion it's not that you absolutely need a V-Mount, but I think alot of the FMIC out there...block the airflow, like the PTE Intercoolers.

If you compare to a core from ETS you'll see what I'm talking about.

A couple of the Kings Performance Ducts or some holes in the bumper above the support would get airflow to the radiator around the FMIC.

Real-deal Inconel Heat Shielding is huge too, but it's very expensive so most people half-a$s it with gold foil and heat wrap.

Fatty Dual-Pass Radiator and Oil Cooler are a given.

 

You don't have to have a vmount. I good flowing dual pass with proper air flow will work fine.

As for as coolant vs distilled water, you can absolutely do that. My car is running mostly distilled water, maybe half gallon of Honda blue, and one bottle of water wetter. I have an oil cooler and Mr.Sideways dualpass radiator (link below) with a single 14inch fan. I don't track my car but I built it to be tracked, daily'd, and beat on. Closes I've done to tracking, which I do plan on changing, is running at the Dragon. Not once did my car come close to overheating while driving it. There is also a guy in town that does track with a P-tuning kit that also has no issues with overheating.

http://www.mrsideways.com/s2000radiator.html

Weight of the cooling system I'm not sure about. If it were by build, I would worry with it and try to loose weight else where. On another note though, being a dedicated track car, you most likely won't have the heater core installed so you'll loose weight there from the core and hoses being gone plus less coolant.

 

sounds like I am on the right track so far. but it also sounds like I know just about as much as everyone else lol. my next couple questions to address....

-what is the most extreme angle I can mount the radiator at?
-tanks on the top? im not familiar with a dual pass setup with tanks on top and bottom... or do I build side mounted tanks with dual pass?
- -12 lines or -16 lines? I would assume bigger is better...?

not 100% on the size of the fmic yet but I know that it will be 3.5in thick. im only going for 400-500 max so anything that size should be fine.

the mani im going to make will be a top mount elt style mani, vband flange, recirculated dump (not sure on the gate size yet, probably 46) 3in exhaust- vibrant resonator- magnaflow muffler


my comment about the coolant vs distilled water came from my built motor that has iron sleeves. benson cautioned me about using too much water and letting it sit. I didn't want to risk it so I ran 50/50 with 1 bottle of wetter. so far so good. With this car I don't have to worry about that except for a few steel slip fittings that rust over time but no biggie as the car will be ran hard and fluids changed regularly.

another thing to look into is how to safely run water lines to the turbo. I am used to the traditional oil fed turbos so this is new to me.

 

I don't have a lot to offer except that I bought my car in January, started driving it in spring (March) took it to my first track day in May and totally blew up my turbo and motor the first day. So for those that say 99% have failed, I'd have to agree. It was a well sorted out 2007 with a 2009 Full Race Ram with BB Garrett GT30 turbo and the underhood heat was a major issue right from the start. On the highway and even curvy mountain runs on the Dragon and Devil's Triangle it ran perfectly cool but not on the track. Before going to the track I had a brand new FlashPro and professional tune with new 1000cc injectors and was doing 430hp with a 10lb spring and running like a champ.

Even before I lost the coolant it was overheating in the slow parts of the track and only mildly cooling on the straightaways which led to not noticing the lap when it didn't cool on the long straight! I never got a chance to try a vented hood or really anything else as the domino effect was a) broken motor mount, b) engine moved in cornering severing the water line to the BB inlet on the turbo, c) all the coolant leaked out with no steam or visible leak, d) the turbo bearings failed at the same time as e) the head gasket blew and coolant entered #3 pushing off the head and stripping out the head bolts completely destroying my 10K old short block.

So, here I am buying the THIRD engine for a car with 44k on it and I'm going to forgo more heartache and high HP fun taking it back to stock driveline with my nice suspension and BBK upgrades and I'm going to be happy.

I didn't listen, we have heard it all, I didn't listen, we all know you can't control the underhood heat (yes, a lot of stuff got melted and my hood blanket and heat shield were on fire when I got to the pits) so my advice is that if you want a track car, then get an old, beat up S2K, put in a roll bar, work on the suspension and brakes and go out and have fun learning how to drive fast. Save your super and turbocharged S2K for smoking people on the road or drag strip.

There, you heard it again. On the other hand, if you have won the lottery, do whatever you want!

 

You chose to track with one of the hottest running kits you can put on a S. I doubt anyone would have success lapping a FR ram horn.

 

The main issue is controlling water temps. Water temps cannot be controlled when you have a front mount intercooler and are turbo charged.

I have a track forged manifold and I have a mishimoto radiator a big oil cooler a front mount inter cooler and I have 2 spal extreme performance fans. The fans are the most high flowing fans on the market. A good cooler system that's work properly works like this. The after the thermostate opens the radiator is fully operational. The coolent will go to a set temp let say 200 degrees. Then the fans kick on to bring the coolent temps down to a set degree. Call it 190. Then the fans kick off. So the coolent is always suppose to be from 190-200.

With my car and all other turbo s2000 that I have had expearance with this is when happens on the street. When I had stock fans. The cooling system work as it suppose to at idle and at low speeds. But if I Cruz on the freeway on how days with the ac the temps will slowly go up to 220 or more If I slow down or if I idle the car the fans would eventually be able to bring the temps back down. I have since up graded to spal extreme performance fans. These fans almost completely solve the issue button really how days or if I were to do a few pulls or if I were to run a 1-2 min auto cross runs the temps would climb.

The issue we have here is the front mount intercooler. The radiator need clean airflow to be able to able to sustained sub 210 water temps during long wide open throttle sessions of a track event. The only answer is a v mount setup

If you plan to track you also need a large oil cooler to control oil temps

You also need a setup to control engine bay heat. The bigger the manifold like a sidewinder will give off more heat. It may be fine on the street but for thee track it will melt everything and anything in the engine bay. Setup that are good for this is low side mount turbo setups like the SOS or ptuning kit.

I have been turboed for a very long time and I can daily my car no problem with ac blasting in 100+ degree days. I can run my car as hard as I want on canyons or at any auto cross. But I knownmt car will not survive more than 5 minutes on a road corse at wide open throttle. The water temps simply cannot be controlled due to the intercooler blocking all the air to the radiator.

You need a v mount setup if you plan to track a turbo s2000. As well as a good oil cooler and a side mount turbo manifold.

 

Some helpful stuff and not so helpful stuff. Either way I appreciate the replys.

 

I think a bottom mount turbo like the Ptuning setup and SOS help with heat a lot. An oil cooler is a must. I think a larger radiator would also help with spal fans attached. There was a guy on the forums called Metros who tracked his ptuning car successfully and here is what he had to say about his setup:


From personal experience: The PTuning kit held up to track use beautifully. I ran the kit with stock radiator and Koyo radiator, as well as the setrab oil cooler that's part of their turbo set up. With stock radiator temperatures were fine upto around 75* ambient temperature. At that point if I continued to push the car the coolant temps would start to get hotter than I wanted (215-219*). I upgraded to the Koyo radiator and the temperatures stayed below 215*. I also learned that by leaving the heat on while tracking you could expect around a 10* difference consistently. Meaning if they peaked previously at 215 then they wouldn't go any higher than 205 while heat on. If you're running the greddy turbo kit then you're more or less out of luck. We had a local running the greddy kit that had upgraded radiator and oil cooler and still couldn't keep temperatures in check. The main problem being the greddy turbo only uses oil for cooling. His oil temps would spike up to 300 quickly and end up shortening his track time each session.

Some vids: YouTube Mxmetros6

http://youtu.be/mXQf4VCPZF0


As everyone has mentioned heat management is a must. I don't know why people complain about spending money of heat shielding when they plan on tracking the car. Proper ATP Inconel shielding is a must IMO. It is expensive but a lot cheaper than a blown motor. The stuff is built proof and there is a reason high end cars use the stuff...it works!

Some pics of my previous setup:

 

We already all know the solution to tracking a turbo s2k. Vmount. Dual pass radiator. Oil cooler. A front mount for supercharger or turbo, will not work for serious lapping days.

Bottom mount turbo is not nessasary, (top fuel uses a top mount) .

My advice is just find a successful turbo track build, and copy it.