In the process on installing a new oem headgasket. Does anyone recommend the copper spray for added protection? Also am using inline pro head studs.

 

I've used it on headgaskets when new gasket wasnt available...on a NA motor. I wouldnt put it on if you have a new one though.

 

Not necessary if you have 2 good clean machined surfaces.

 

Checked block and head surface. Both are flat shows the straight edge. Brake kleen the best to use to clean the surfaces or what else do you recommend?

 

I doubt the newer mls gaskets leave much but if there was ever anything i used a razor blade AGAINST the edge, sliding it back n forth perpendicular to my wrist bone.

If you have a precision straight edge and everything is good then go forward. Have confidence in your ability; especially since you did the required inspections prior to assembly.

 

Also when installing the headstuds they say hand tight. Is there a torque spec for that? Maybe like 5 ft/lbs? And is it recommended to install the studs in the block then put the gasket on then install the head or install the gasket then head then install the studs?

 

imo i dont think it really matters, as long as the studs have a hex head you can put them in with head on if you choose to do it that way. If you put studs in before head just be careful to guide the head on, paying attention not to mark the head surface with a stud.

I like to put mine in hand tight and then back em off about a half turn. Then while im torquing when i feel it slip and tighten itself down you back the nut off and then re start the torque. Its a hard thing to describe but it deffly feels different youll know when the stud spins with the nut and when its just spinning the nut. But of course you can go the other route to by just backing it, in that case honestly. Hand tight is hand tight and you shouldnt be to concerned about the torque value of the stud.