Update:
Put in an FPR, a fuel pressure gauge. Gonna adjust pressure a bit up.

New plugs going in. Had NGK BKR8EIX, the good iridium ones, one step colder, gapped at .035. New plugs going in: stock heat range, 7, NGK BKR7, coppers, gapped at 0.034". Hopefully it'll help.


RE: one post up. Received the FPR. Good deal. Thank you.

 

Another update:

sparkys didn't help. Vac is in -7 -8. Normal was -11.

Now there's definitely ticking coming at irregular intervals from the front of the block/head. Like dull knocks, or hard plastic screwdriver handle hitting aluminum block. Oil starvation? I didn't upgrade the oiljets...

 

Thats really not good that you didnt upgrade the oil jets. They have even damaged NA cars.

All of this still doesnt add up. Are you consuming a lot of oil?

 

also you might want to try a diff gauge because normal vacuum is not 11. It should be atleast 15-16 in. hg. My car is around 18 in.hg. So that is one issue.

The other issue is the super high lean reading. I am pretty sure when i had a basemap for my old injectors my car idled at 18-20:1 and it wouldnt run on its own. It was non driveable and i would have to keep giving it gas to keep it running. So either you have a really big exhaust leak or something is screwy with that sensor. Maybe someone else can chime in on how a car would run with that lean of a reading.

Have you done a balance test to see if one of the cylinders is not working? or working very poorly?

 

sounds like you have a exhaust leak. Do you smell exhaust? I have had exhaust leaks and my A/F gauge will run leaner than usual because the exhaust has leaked out 'pre' O2 sensor. Do you have 'o2 feedback' setup on your EMS?

 

The gauge combo is one of these guys:

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/blue-digita...ombo-gauge.aspx

You're correct. Vac is in in/Hg. So yeah, looks like I had an issue even before I went F/I.

I'm consuming about a quart in 2000 miles.

Idle is not consistent. One day it dies. Another it will actually idle on its own. Weird.


Rob! How do I do balance test? I did try unplugging each coil one by one on one of those days when it decided to actually run on its own. It went from inconsistent idle to rough idle on every unplugged coil. So it's not plugs or coils.


And I don't think I have O2 feedback setup. I don't think wideband is even calibrated to show same AFR numbers on both gauge and the AFR gauge in 'Home' screen in AEMPro software. Gonna lift up the car, maybe tear off some of the heatwrap and look for a leak, or a loose/broken bolt on the flanges.

 

Thats how you do a balance test. If one of the coils you unplugged didnt change how the engine ran then you know thats your dead cylinder. since it died on every one then you know all cylinders are working. If one you find is dead then you check that cyl. for spark, fuel and compression.

Try doing that when its running like crap.

 

Verified. All cylinders run ok. But there's a definite, quiet, random knocking, aluminum-on-aluminum, from the front of the engine. Shopping for a new block!

Anybody got one in good shape with the pistons/crank/rods and all installed?