AFAIK no difference.. AF is a ratio, not an actual measurable volume of fuel

The cell values for how much fuel in the tune would be different though

 

PARTIAL THROTTLE MATTERS SO MUCH.

remember , where do you spend most of your driving experience? part throttle! we dont all drive WOT everywhere. and part throttle is misleading, becuase you can easily hit boost in part throttle.

but, he asked specifically for crusing AFR, and assuming he stays under 5k rpm, and stays under -8 psi of boost, IE vaccum, i dont know what that translates too in inches of mercury, or in hg i think, then yeah 14-15.5ish is perfectly fine.

 

Well thats what I mean. Light on the gas afr's are not what you worry about. WOT is where the damage happens.

 

NO

WOT is not only place damage happens!

part throttle can hit boost. you can be at example 40% throttle but hit boost becuase your in a high load situation, IE 4th gear in lower rpms. thats why i stressed the spot on the load map. as you hit more load, you need more fuel! even though its not WOT. i run a load vs rpm map. but theres other ways to do it too. no matter which way though, part throttle is very very important. this is your driveability we are talking here, as well as if your part throttle map is jacked, you can run lean and kill stuff.

 

ok this all seems relevant, good to know proper theory coming into play. now that i think about it, it was like 14.6-7 to recall at my partial throttle. i kept thinking to myself the last time i drove if the AFR should be at 12s or 13 during regular driving. i really hope my memory is correct.

i have my wide band sensor welded in on my greddy kit down pipe at the bend before the cat, im i getting the right reading from here

 

Cruising - Aim for 14.7 and no more than 15.5

Part throttle 0" - 12.8-13.2

Boost - 11.5-11.9

 

sounds about right, im pretty sure my AFRs looked something like that.

another question, if my tune was done with the stock cat and silencer, would the AFRs change if the silencer is removed and the cat is replaced with a high flow or test pipe. i had my car tuned with the silencer on my Greddy TIC 70mm, i didnt even know i had one until i took it off. will the Greddy EMU compensate for this?

 

Test pipe will def lean it out. I have read that cat to test pipe can be as much as 1 full point afr difference.

 

i dont have the test pipe, i just removed my silencer like a day or two after i had my car dyno tuned. i was itching for the extra HP and i knew the stupid silencer that came with my exhaust was holding me back. Shawn at Churches said that that silencer was robbing a decent amount of my HP and said he made the maps a little more rich to compensate for removing the silencer and add more boost. he also told me not to remove my stock cat or i would lean out too much.

does anyone know why greddy made a dope single but made it so you cant take off the silencer without having to buy separate bolts to bolt the tip back on? i took out the three screws holding the tip in place then removed the tip and silencer and found the nuts were welded onto the silencer, who does that? luckily i did it while i was at home depot and just bought the nuts there for cheap, i double nutted it so dont lose my tip.