Ctsc basic setup question
Hi and thanks for reading.
Before i start i just want to say that i have done some research on this forum and if i wasnt good enough to find that info well .. Sorry and thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
I just installed a comptech sc kit with ac this winter on my 00 . Spring is coming soon and i would like to have some input on one single thing.
The kit i bought is used and came with every litle component that came originaly from comptech the fuel pump , fpr , esm , stock pulley ect ... ( special thanks to muckalun )
Now into the question. The only adjustment posible with this kit is the fuel pressure regulator. I asked comptech and they told me to adjust by monitering the fuel pressure ( abvious ). But i have a aem wideband on the car and im pretty sure there is a way to adjust the fpr with the afr on that gauge.
Im no rocket scientist but i know i should be reading somewhere in the low 12 at wot. Right ???
Does it make any sense ???
Should i be worried about something else??? Like afr at idle or cruising ???
Oh... Btw i know my english sucks ... SORRY
Thanks again if you read all of this
Before i start i just want to say that i have done some research on this forum and if i wasnt good enough to find that info well .. Sorry and thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
I just installed a comptech sc kit with ac this winter on my 00 . Spring is coming soon and i would like to have some input on one single thing.
The kit i bought is used and came with every litle component that came originaly from comptech the fuel pump , fpr , esm , stock pulley ect ... ( special thanks to muckalun )
Now into the question. The only adjustment posible with this kit is the fuel pressure regulator. I asked comptech and they told me to adjust by monitering the fuel pressure ( abvious ). But i have a aem wideband on the car and im pretty sure there is a way to adjust the fpr with the afr on that gauge.
Im no rocket scientist but i know i should be reading somewhere in the low 12 at wot. Right ???
Does it make any sense ???
Should i be worried about something else??? Like afr at idle or cruising ???
Oh... Btw i know my english sucks ... SORRY

Thanks again if you read all of this
Adjusting the RRFPR, adjusts the fuel pressure, and in turn, changes your AFR. Turning it clockwise increases your fuel pressure, and will lead to you running richer (i.e., lower numbers on your gauge). Turning it counterclockwise does the opposite; decreases fuel pressure which leads to running leaner. For example, let's say you're running 12.0 at 9k while going WOT. If you increase fuel pressure by adjusting the RRFPR clockwise, it should in theory, result in you running 11.x instead.
Your AFR gauge doesn't adjust anything, it just reads or monitors the air-to-fuel ratio as it passes the wideband sensor.
Ideally, a fuel pressure gauge should be used while adjusting the RRFPR. You should set it to the baseline setting suggested by CT (e.g., 50 psi) while idling with the vacuum line disconnected from the RRFPR. Once you're doing adjusting it, reconnect the vacuum line to the RRFPR and carefully do some WOT pulls in 3rd/4th gear and ensure your AFRs are in your desired/preferred range. Your AFRs will fluctuate given the conditions, load, etc so you want to establish a general pattern. If they're not to your liking, pull over and adjust the RRFPR accordingly and repeat.
Generally speaking, high 11s or even low 12s while in boost would be ideal. Depending on your other supporting mods, that may or may not be possible. In any event, I would try to avoid anything leaner than 13.0+.
Your AFR gauge doesn't adjust anything, it just reads or monitors the air-to-fuel ratio as it passes the wideband sensor.
Ideally, a fuel pressure gauge should be used while adjusting the RRFPR. You should set it to the baseline setting suggested by CT (e.g., 50 psi) while idling with the vacuum line disconnected from the RRFPR. Once you're doing adjusting it, reconnect the vacuum line to the RRFPR and carefully do some WOT pulls in 3rd/4th gear and ensure your AFRs are in your desired/preferred range. Your AFRs will fluctuate given the conditions, load, etc so you want to establish a general pattern. If they're not to your liking, pull over and adjust the RRFPR accordingly and repeat.
Generally speaking, high 11s or even low 12s while in boost would be ideal. Depending on your other supporting mods, that may or may not be possible. In any event, I would try to avoid anything leaner than 13.0+.
Adjusting the RRFPR, adjusts the fuel pressure, and in turn, changes your AFR. Turning it clockwise increases your fuel pressure, and will lead to you running richer (i.e., lower numbers on your gauge). Turning it counterclockwise does the opposite; decreases fuel pressure which leads to running leaner. For example, let's say you're running 12.0 at 9k while going WOT. If you increase fuel pressure by adjusting the RRFPR clockwise, it should in theory, result in you running 11.x instead.
Your AFR gauge doesn't adjust anything, it just reads or monitors the air-to-fuel ratio as it passes the wideband sensor.
Ideally, a fuel pressure gauge should be used while adjusting the RRFPR. You should set it to the baseline setting suggested by CT (e.g., 50 psi) while idling with the vacuum line disconnected from the RRFPR. Once you're doing adjusting it, reconnect the vacuum line to the RRFPR and carefully do some WOT pulls in 3rd/4th gear and ensure your AFRs are in your desired/preferred range. Your AFRs will fluctuate giving the conditions, load, etc so you want to establish a general pattern. If they're not to your liking, pull over and adjust the RRFPR accordingly and repeat.
Generally speaking, high 11s or even low 12s while in boost would be ideal. Depending on your other supporting mods, that may or may not be possible. In any event, I would try to avoid anything leaner than 13.0+.
Your AFR gauge doesn't adjust anything, it just reads or monitors the air-to-fuel ratio as it passes the wideband sensor.
Ideally, a fuel pressure gauge should be used while adjusting the RRFPR. You should set it to the baseline setting suggested by CT (e.g., 50 psi) while idling with the vacuum line disconnected from the RRFPR. Once you're doing adjusting it, reconnect the vacuum line to the RRFPR and carefully do some WOT pulls in 3rd/4th gear and ensure your AFRs are in your desired/preferred range. Your AFRs will fluctuate giving the conditions, load, etc so you want to establish a general pattern. If they're not to your liking, pull over and adjust the RRFPR accordingly and repeat.
Generally speaking, high 11s or even low 12s while in boost would be ideal. Depending on your other supporting mods, that may or may not be possible. In any event, I would try to avoid anything leaner than 13.0+.
Thanks jawknee for your explaintion
I knew that i had to adjust with the rrfpr and that the wideband is just a reading. My concern was that i wondered if i could calibrate the rrfpr just by monitering the afr.
So your saying i absolutly need to check the gaz pressure ?? Any advice on the easiest way to do it.
Btw suporting mods are 70mm tp and 3" exhaust.
Thanks again
I knew that i had to adjust with the rrfpr and that the wideband is just a reading. My concern was that i wondered if i could calibrate the rrfpr just by monitering the afr.
So your saying i absolutly need to check the gaz pressure ?? Any advice on the easiest way to do it.
Btw suporting mods are 70mm tp and 3" exhaust.
Thanks again
I don't think it's absolutely critical to check or know what your fuel pressure is. If you're too lean or too rich, adjust the RRFPR accordingly. When adjusting it, make note of how many turns you make, whether it's half or a full, and then observe the change in AFR. If you had a fuel pressure gauge, you can simply go by psi instead of using the number of threads and/or turns, and it's more precise this way. However, without a fuel pressure gauge, you won't be able to "reset" the RRFPR to its out-of-the-box baseline spec per CT.
With that said, you can easily install a fuel pressure gauge yourself, whether permanently (i.e., tapping the fuel rail) or temporarily (i.e., in place of the banjo bolt), and it is rather inexpensive.
See the following thread: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/204...-supercharger/
With that said, you can easily install a fuel pressure gauge yourself, whether permanently (i.e., tapping the fuel rail) or temporarily (i.e., in place of the banjo bolt), and it is rather inexpensive.
See the following thread: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/204...-supercharger/
Now that is what i wanted to hear !! I might just adjust it by looking at the wideband. I was pretty sure it was possible but just wanted a second opinion.
I knew about this thread an wondered if i could avoid that. Even if it is pretty simple.
Thanks again
I knew about this thread an wondered if i could avoid that. Even if it is pretty simple.
Thanks again
Ya man, just watch your AFR gauge, if you need more fuel, turn the pressure up a bit.
What are your AFRs during a WOT pull?
Also, just to clarify, idle and part throttle the AFRs should be around 14.7. The 11-12 range is only for full throttle
What are your AFRs during a WOT pull?
Also, just to clarify, idle and part throttle the AFRs should be around 14.7. The 11-12 range is only for full throttle
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Yeah idle and cruising afr will be unaffected by fpr adjustment. Its true that the static idle pressure will go up as you adjust the fpr, even though its a rising rate, its sort of two regulators in one in that sense, but the ecu quickly compensates and learns the new idle pressure to always keep the car at a target 14.7. sweeping back and forth from mid 14-mid 15afr is normal.







