Ctsc basic setup question
Perfect
Thank you all very much
Now can spring begin ???
I been driving that car with bolt on for 11 years now. I can hardly sleep now that the sc is ready to rock. I just cant imagine how it will feel.
Thank you all very much
Now can spring begin ???
I been driving that car with bolt on for 11 years now. I can hardly sleep now that the sc is ready to rock. I just cant imagine how it will feel.
Ok !!!
Just got back from the dyno. I went just to get a graph to see the afr and make sure everything is safe.
Well i guess it aint. At wot below vtec everything is fine 11.8 ish but when vtec kicks in the afr gets pretty lean 13.5 ish until 8000rpm were it get back to 11.8 ish.
I played a lot with the adj fpr and got the screw almost all the way in where it got too rich below vtec but not even close to ok in vtec.
Anybody experienced or heard something like that.
Thanks in advance
Just got back from the dyno. I went just to get a graph to see the afr and make sure everything is safe.
Well i guess it aint. At wot below vtec everything is fine 11.8 ish but when vtec kicks in the afr gets pretty lean 13.5 ish until 8000rpm were it get back to 11.8 ish.
I played a lot with the adj fpr and got the screw almost all the way in where it got too rich below vtec but not even close to ok in vtec.
Anybody experienced or heard something like that.
Thanks in advance
Can you post your graphs here for us to see? There will be a spike in the AFR's right where VTEC kicks in, but it should settle pretty quickly. You want that spike to remain at or under 13, and the rest of VTEC to be in the 12's. How rich was your pre-VTEC range after you adjusted the FPR?
Also- how was the dyno recording your AFR's, was it using the sensor shoved into your exhaust tail pipe? And if so was it using just one sensor or two (one in each muffler)? Or did the tuner get his AFR signal from your wideband? Also, do you have an OEM cat, high flow cat, or test pipe?
Also- how was the dyno recording your AFR's, was it using the sensor shoved into your exhaust tail pipe? And if so was it using just one sensor or two (one in each muffler)? Or did the tuner get his AFR signal from your wideband? Also, do you have an OEM cat, high flow cat, or test pipe?

Ok. First i have a single exhaust , the wideband was at the end in the tail pipe. But mine is in the headers and it was 0,5 richer all the time. So the graph is 0,5 leaner.
Im running a test pipe
the O2 sensor shoved into the tailpipe is next to useless.
You can't really just take of X:0...you're tuning a 11:1 CR car with a ported head that spins over 8000RPM and adding boost...I wouldn't tune something like that using an O2 sensor in the tail pipe...just me.
You can't really just take of X:0...you're tuning a 11:1 CR car with a ported head that spins over 8000RPM and adding boost...I wouldn't tune something like that using an O2 sensor in the tail pipe...just me.
I hear you Steven , but like i said we confirm that with the one i have already installed in the headers. We locked the engines rpm using the dynapack and compared both sensor reading. We did it at 4k 6k and 8k and everytime it was of by .5. From that we taught it was a pretty stable offset
No test done
But im gonna test the rrfpr tonight cause the kit was used and the rrfpr wasnt use for the last 2 years. The diaphragm maybe dry and i think the fuel pressure doesnt rise enought as the boost rises
How does that sound
But im gonna test the rrfpr tonight cause the kit was used and the rrfpr wasnt use for the last 2 years. The diaphragm maybe dry and i think the fuel pressure doesnt rise enought as the boost rises
How does that sound
I had the opposite problem with my rrfpr that I bought used... it was old and I think started to leak or a seal blew out. Caused me to run rich and start misfiring
I don't doubt that an old rrfpr could cause the issue. I hate these rrfpr's.
I don't doubt that an old rrfpr could cause the issue. I hate these rrfpr's.
definitely don't discount that your injectors aren't up to the job.
OEM injectors flowing at OEM spec are, but if they are not flowing enough, they are insufficient for the job. One injector that's lower than spec is going to make that cylinder run lean...and you to have a bad day.
I'd advise removing them and sending them off to some folks that will clean and test them, like RC.
This is my first suspicion as to why you run lean. I had similar problems, as one of mine was not flowing to spec.
You can test the RRFPR easily enough. There's a sticky in the FI forum about mounting a pressure gauge...takes 10 minutes to swap out. I wouldn't use that location to run each day as it eventually will start leaking, but I used it to ensure my pressure was correct. It's definitely easier than swapping out a FPR that may be working fine. Those little bolts on the fender are tough to reach.
OEM injectors flowing at OEM spec are, but if they are not flowing enough, they are insufficient for the job. One injector that's lower than spec is going to make that cylinder run lean...and you to have a bad day.
I'd advise removing them and sending them off to some folks that will clean and test them, like RC.
This is my first suspicion as to why you run lean. I had similar problems, as one of mine was not flowing to spec.
You can test the RRFPR easily enough. There's a sticky in the FI forum about mounting a pressure gauge...takes 10 minutes to swap out. I wouldn't use that location to run each day as it eventually will start leaking, but I used it to ensure my pressure was correct. It's definitely easier than swapping out a FPR that may be working fine. Those little bolts on the fender are tough to reach.


