CTSC Cooler Pump and Front mount Question
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CTSC Cooler Pump and Front mount Question
Hey guys,
I have a Comptech Novi1000 kit with an aftercooler Its a (C63AMG cooler). My question is how did you guys wire the pump up when you do the Air pump delete? I noticed yesterday that my pump is not working theres no pressure on the coolant lines and i have it wired to the fuse box and into a relay as the previous owner of the kit had, i've searched for wiring guides and most of them are wired to the air pump but ill be taking that out. It worked fine for a month but now its not. I am also condsidering buying a Bosch upgraded pump and frozenboost aftercooler to increase cooling for this coming summer, how did you connect the hoses to the cooler the picture just shows 2 female inlet an outlet?
Currently running the stock ESM, Ill be tunned on AEM EMSV2 with walbro 255 ID1000 by the end of this month and the step colder plugs (NGK Iridiums).
Any input advice will be apreciated.
Thanks
-Fernando
I have a Comptech Novi1000 kit with an aftercooler Its a (C63AMG cooler). My question is how did you guys wire the pump up when you do the Air pump delete? I noticed yesterday that my pump is not working theres no pressure on the coolant lines and i have it wired to the fuse box and into a relay as the previous owner of the kit had, i've searched for wiring guides and most of them are wired to the air pump but ill be taking that out. It worked fine for a month but now its not. I am also condsidering buying a Bosch upgraded pump and frozenboost aftercooler to increase cooling for this coming summer, how did you connect the hoses to the cooler the picture just shows 2 female inlet an outlet?
Currently running the stock ESM, Ill be tunned on AEM EMSV2 with walbro 255 ID1000 by the end of this month and the step colder plugs (NGK Iridiums).
Any input advice will be apreciated.
Thanks
-Fernando
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I made a diagram for another member through PM the other day. I'll grab it for you in a second and post it here.
I also have the frozenboost heat exchanger (2" thick version) with the upgraded pump. You need to buy two fittings from frozenboost to adapt the inlet/outlet ports on the heat exchanger to a 3/4" hose. I'll get you the parts that I purchased from them. One is a straight fitting, and one is a 90 degree fitting. Give me a few minutes.
I also have the frozenboost heat exchanger (2" thick version) with the upgraded pump. You need to buy two fittings from frozenboost to adapt the inlet/outlet ports on the heat exchanger to a 3/4" hose. I'll get you the parts that I purchased from them. One is a straight fitting, and one is a 90 degree fitting. Give me a few minutes.
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Here is part of a message I sent to another user concerning the aftercooler upgrade:
As for the flow, I went:
-lower port on aftercooler (outlet, closest to front of car) to the top port on heat exchanger (inlet)
-bottom port on heat exchanger (outlet) to inlet of pump
-outlet of pump to upper port on aftercooler (inlet, closest to throttle body
This allows for the coldest water to be the closest to the throttle body, creating a counter-flow heat exchanger setup. This setup also allows gravity to help pull the water through the heat exchangers, making the pump work slightly less.
Now, here is the message I sent to another user concerning the wiring of the pump:
Note that I did wire mine to the air pump wiring, but as stated in the last paragraph, you can just run that wire to your battery positive terminal instead if you don't have the air pump.
But back to the HX... here is my list of items I bought off siliconeintakes.com to make this happen:
(1) Water to Air Intercooler Radiator - 26x7x2 (Type 118)
(1) Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed Straight (put this on the bottom outlet port)
(1) Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed 90 Elbow (put this on the top inlet port)
I also bought around 8 feet of 3/4" hose from Autozone. Then I used some scrap angle iron from work to make the mounting brackets, though it was completely over-engineered and I spent way too much time on it. User DaGou just had a guy weld two little aluminum tabs on the top of his similar to the way that SOS has theirs fabbed up. Its just a bit more of a pain to get it mounted, but you can't beat the price at around 1/3 of what SOS charges.
(1) Water to Air Intercooler Radiator - 26x7x2 (Type 118)
(1) Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed Straight (put this on the bottom outlet port)
(1) Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed 90 Elbow (put this on the top inlet port)
I also bought around 8 feet of 3/4" hose from Autozone. Then I used some scrap angle iron from work to make the mounting brackets, though it was completely over-engineered and I spent way too much time on it. User DaGou just had a guy weld two little aluminum tabs on the top of his similar to the way that SOS has theirs fabbed up. Its just a bit more of a pain to get it mounted, but you can't beat the price at around 1/3 of what SOS charges.
-lower port on aftercooler (outlet, closest to front of car) to the top port on heat exchanger (inlet)
-bottom port on heat exchanger (outlet) to inlet of pump
-outlet of pump to upper port on aftercooler (inlet, closest to throttle body
This allows for the coldest water to be the closest to the throttle body, creating a counter-flow heat exchanger setup. This setup also allows gravity to help pull the water through the heat exchangers, making the pump work slightly less.
Now, here is the message I sent to another user concerning the wiring of the pump:
This image I just made should help describe it best. You need to buy a 20A or 30A relay from Autozone, they sell them in the section with the headlight bulbs usually.
Look at the power leads going to your air pump; there is a black connector with a thick white/red wire going into it. Unsnap the top of this connector and hook onto the nut terminal there and run that wire to terminal 30 on the relay. Now go under the steering wheel and look at the fuse box. On the left hand side there are three unused spade terminals in a row vertically. The bottom one of these three is switched power, which means it comes on when you turn the key on. Run a wire from there back through the grommet in the fire wall and down the driver side of the engine bay to your relay, and connect to terminal 86. Connect terminal 87 to the positive lead from your water pump (likely a red wire). Now take another wire and connect it to terminal 85 on the relay, and take the ground lead from the water pump (likely black wire), wrap them together and crimp on a ring terminal to the end of them both and attach it to a spare bolt or nut holding the air pump bracket to ground both of these wires.
If you don't have an air pump (AP2 or you deleted yours already) you can run a wire straight from the battery positive terminal to terminal 30 on the relay instead of tapping into the air pump positive wire. However, if you do it this way, you need to put a fuse on this wire as well. They sell in-line fuses at Autozone too. Buy a 20A or 30A inline fuse. You don't need a fuse if you just jumper off of the air pump wiring as stated above and shown in the picture.
Good luck!
Look at the power leads going to your air pump; there is a black connector with a thick white/red wire going into it. Unsnap the top of this connector and hook onto the nut terminal there and run that wire to terminal 30 on the relay. Now go under the steering wheel and look at the fuse box. On the left hand side there are three unused spade terminals in a row vertically. The bottom one of these three is switched power, which means it comes on when you turn the key on. Run a wire from there back through the grommet in the fire wall and down the driver side of the engine bay to your relay, and connect to terminal 86. Connect terminal 87 to the positive lead from your water pump (likely a red wire). Now take another wire and connect it to terminal 85 on the relay, and take the ground lead from the water pump (likely black wire), wrap them together and crimp on a ring terminal to the end of them both and attach it to a spare bolt or nut holding the air pump bracket to ground both of these wires.
If you don't have an air pump (AP2 or you deleted yours already) you can run a wire straight from the battery positive terminal to terminal 30 on the relay instead of tapping into the air pump positive wire. However, if you do it this way, you need to put a fuse on this wire as well. They sell in-line fuses at Autozone too. Buy a 20A or 30A inline fuse. You don't need a fuse if you just jumper off of the air pump wiring as stated above and shown in the picture.
Good luck!
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