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DIY vented hood

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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by s2konroids
Louvres are a much better solution IMO I'd like to know too, since IMO i think the DIY vents only really help idling/hot traffic scenarios.

If we could seal the underneath and sides of the car then the DIY vents might come into there own.

If done with the large vent in the front and the small one in the rear they work while moving. A couple pieces of yarn I tied to the vents in the middle of the mesh showed me this. I can't speak about it above speeds of 100mph as the yarn was difficult to see due to its fast movement though.

The process is quite simple, splitter blocks under the engine bay, the air has nowhere to go but through the vents as it's pushed in through the front of the car in the stagnation area. As I said prior, temps across the board were much cooler than my stock setup was, at least with a turbocharged car. Though I doubt it would be much different on a non-turbo.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 09:11 AM
  #42  
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Worst thing you can do is those hood spacers, they look terrible and they expel the heat right in front of the windshield which is the single worst area to do so in.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 07:34 AM
  #43  
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Just did mines for the mase turbo kit. It's not even on yet but I can't wait!

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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 07:40 AM
  #44  
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The two holes you did are the least efficient ones. The key one is the one in the front actually. The rear two are substantially less effective.

There's a reason I do my vents the way I do.

Still looks good though man.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 09:55 AM
  #45  
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Looks good :thumbsup:

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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #46  
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*Prepares for flame-fest*

Ok, I've seen this question come up so many times about other cars... YES it works. But why is a little more elusive...

There is always confusion between velocity pressure and static pressure. I'll be short and say that you want to vent the hood where areas where low static pressure occur... airflow will ALWAYS move from areas of high static pressure to areas of low static pressure. Shortening the airflow route will force the airflow though the engine bay quicker and better than the stock route (front->engine->undercar->rear of car).

Look at this diagram (no, it's not an S2K, but it's close enough):



The YELLOW areas (pointing AWAY) from the car are areas of LOW static pressure.

The CLEAR areas (pointing INTO) from the car are areas of HIGH static pressure.

The raised hood thing works because the pressure in front of the car is greater than the pressure at the windshield, but as you can clearly see, it's not the best solution.

If you want to get the best cooling by cutting a hole in the hood, only cut it right above/slightly behind the exhaust manifold. Air will enter the front of the car and be expelled out the hole in the hood (when moving).

Not trying to be an A$$ here, but it kills me to think of people cutting holes all in their hoods in the wrong places thinking it's doing something... Not many of us have access to a wind tunnel LOL.

Peace.
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 05:47 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by hybridsol
*Prepares for flame-fest*

Ok, I've seen this question come up so many times about other cars... YES it works. But why is a little more elusive...

There is always confusion between velocity pressure and static pressure. I'll be short and say that you want to vent the hood where areas where low static pressure occur... airflow will ALWAYS move from areas of high static pressure to areas of low static pressure. Shortening the airflow route will force the airflow though the engine bay quicker and better than the stock route (front->engine->undercar->rear of car).

Look at this diagram (no, it's not an S2K, but it's close enough):



The YELLOW areas (pointing AWAY) from the car are areas of LOW static pressure.

The CLEAR areas (pointing INTO) from the car are areas of HIGH static pressure.

The raised hood thing works because the pressure in front of the car is greater than the pressure at the windshield, but as you can clearly see, it's not the best solution.

If you want to get the best cooling by cutting a hole in the hood, only cut it right above/slightly behind the exhaust manifold. Air will enter the front of the car and be expelled out the hole in the hood (when moving).

Not trying to be an A$$ here, but it kills me to think of people cutting holes all in their hoods in the wrong places thinking it's doing something... Not many of us have access to a wind tunnel LOL.

Peace.
This guy needs a cookie, thats what ive been saying lol. Without any directionality in the vents, its just adds turbulence. it may cool to a degree, but not nearly as effectively as say a CF vented hood
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 07:51 AM
  #48  
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So would all three on the passenger side be most effected? If not what is the most effective holes to cut?

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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 08:30 AM
  #49  
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The profile is close enough, though the frontal area is undersized since we have a flat front end making an effective air dam, still it's close enough.

You say to cut it in the area that has POSITIVE pressure on the car just before the windshield? I think you may have got it a little mixed up here.

However, it's not explained exactly correct because some other points were left out about how the air is traveling over the car and how THAT air affects handling etc. The shape of most all cars is somewhat of an airfoil unfortunately, this creates lift, by adding air in front of the windshield you're effectively making the airfoil more efficient thus creating a little more lift. This is why it's a terrible idea to vent in front of the windshield. It's why you see ASM vent up front just behind the front bumper. Though some in the past did vent further back such as the XJ220, you'll see less of this as years progress, keep in mind that was 1989.

It also fails to take into effect some others known effects of air travel but that's fine.

For the record, I've had access to wind tunnel for the last 4 years, though I no longer do as of the last couple months.
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Old May 6, 2012 | 07:27 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k
The profile is close enough, though the frontal area is undersized since we have a flat front end making an effective air dam, still it's close enough.

You say to cut it in the area that has POSITIVE pressure on the car just before the windshield? I think you may have got it a little mixed up here.

However, it's not explained exactly correct because some other points were left out about how the air is traveling over the car and how THAT air affects handling etc. The shape of most all cars is somewhat of an airfoil unfortunately, this creates lift, by adding air in front of the windshield you're effectively making the airfoil more efficient thus creating a little more lift. This is why it's a terrible idea to vent in front of the windshield. It's why you see ASM vent up front just behind the front bumper. Though some in the past did vent further back such as the XJ220, you'll see less of this as years progress, keep in mind that was 1989.

It also fails to take into effect some others known effects of air travel but that's fine.

For the record, I've had access to wind tunnel for the last 4 years, though I no longer do as of the last couple months.
Did you use the wind tunnel wile you could? And on the s2k to see where the pressure was low and high? And what vents do more or less? Or the combo . Just saying. Air moves around the car different at different speeds.

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