Yep, and about 350whp or roughly 10psi is when you want to start thinking about a clutch upgrade but it depends on how you treat it too. An SC is easier on a clutch then a turbo but if you speed shift all the time and don't let the clutch properly engage before stabbing the gas peddle you can make it slip when otherwise not. I made about 375whp on a stock ap1 clutch with light flywheel without any slipping. Ap2 clutches dont hold as well due to the weaker pressure plate. Lots of variables

Also when you do upgrade the clutch make sure you get a 8-9lbs flywheel like a Findanza, if you want to liven up your motor throughout the entire rpm range. Well worth it.

 

Yeah I think I will try to not shift too hard when sc'd with stock clutch. Don't want to completely fry it until I have a clutch in hand and money to get it installed put aside.
Yeah I read that about AP1 clutches holding better so thats a good thing.

Is the flywheel really that big of a difference since the AP1 flywheel is already pretty light?
I had an 8 lb one on my dsm and it was definitely a nice upgrade but stock one was like 20 lbs so a much bigger difference there.
Made it almost want to stall out sometimes it seemed though. Same thing in the S?

 

Yeah shedding 6 pounds is a nice noticeable difference from the ap1 flywheel. A light flywheel is not as forgiving so its possible to stall if you don't adjust your driving habits slightly, but its not hard and its well worth it to me, but I like all out performance, the way it makes the motor respond to my foot is so much more appealing as well as the additional hp/trq it frees up through the whole rpm range. Give it a little blip at the start like a high performing machine to get the rpms up and your off! If your good you don't need to blip at all, but I like to anyway

A light flywheel also increases clutch effectiveness, adds life and more holding capacity under shifting or varied throttle applications. It takes less effort for your clutch to grab/clamp and hold 8lbs of spinning inertia vs 14 or 22.

 

Yeah I guess I might as well when in there do it.
the lighter flywheel makes it feel like less power down low though correct? The heavier it it I think gives the feel of more torque starting out.
Do you have a Fidanza flywheel on yours?

Also I think I remember that adding the sc on the car increases vibrations a lot. Forgot about this. Is that true at all? If yes would stiffer motor mounts solve that issue or just have to live with it?

 

Thats a pretty rich tune, looks like you could be getting away with another 15whp from 7.5k rpm to redline if you leaned things out a bit. You can see your hp curve drop as your afr drops. running 10.5 afr is ridiculously over rich for even a 500whp turbo car let alone a centrifugal SC. Id run that up to 12 afr up top and 12.8-2.5 pre vtec to be safe and make more power across your entire rpm range, especially on the top end where you could likely see 380whp safely.

 

No the heaver flywheel slows the motor down and makes it feel sluggish so quite the contrary, unless you are going up a hill it will help maintain your current speed a little more but it responds less quickly to throttle application when you do need to compensate for going up a hill, not sure if I am explaining well, but there is no situation where your motor is making less power with a lighter flywheel, it makes more. Your confusing maybe the heavier flywheel being more forgiving to get going, but once the clutch is out and your moving the lighter flywheel frees up trq and hp, but it also reacts quicker to hills and what not since it doesn't have the same heavy spinning inertia to keep your engine at its current rpm without more throttle.

 

Ok yeah I know that it frees up power with the lighter flywheel, but it feels like you lose low end torque from a stop with the lighter flywheel is I guess what I meant. Thats how it felt in my dsm with 8 lb flywheel at least.

 

Its all about spinning inertia. Your asking more from the engine to spin 14lb vs 8lb. Its also harder to slow down 14lb vs 8lb.

Think about all the driving situations you get in, from starting out from a stop, stepping on the gas once your moving, driving up a hill, down a hill etc and ask yourself which one of these driving situations fits with the 2 things I mentioned above. Starting form a stop would be the second one for example, because this is what your car in a stopped position is trying to do, slow your motor down.

 

Ok because at 1200rpm where you might normally let the clutch out, the lighter mass of the flywheel is not enough to store the energy required to get the car moving from a stop without slowing down the motor to stalling point, thus it requires more rpms to offset. This is not a lack of power from the motor, on the contrary, It is less rotating mass/inertia. Its the only time the added flywheel mass can be considered beneficial, but as I mentioned before, once the clutch is engaged and the car is moving it is all bliss.

 

Ok yeah. I think whenever I do the clutch might as well put a lightweight flywheel in as well. No extra labor to do it then and should be a nice match with such a rev happy car.