Yeah pissed I just sold my vafc with plug and play harness lol.
Oh well will get an emanage or aem ems at some point when I up the boost and all anyways.

 

I did that too and then realized I needed it so I picked up another used vafc2 with pnp harness for $300. They are floating around. Even just the original vafc would be fine. Get your set up hooked up and the fpr dialed in to be safe afr up top and see where your pre vtec afr is, likely you will find that your running too rich there and you will find that leaning out with the vafc and lowering vtec will add a noticeable amount of trq/hp. Well worth the min cost. Just keep this in mind for the future. Ive got allot of experience with the comptech kit over the last couple years. A poor tuned CT or VT kit will be noticeable slower at the same psi then one that's been dialed in to work at its full potential.

 

It wont be quite as effective with hywy pulls but it will be snappier around town and more fun overall. When you up the boost and start making more power above the stock kits the gears really become less effective and will make you slower overall. Gears are a compensator for lack of power, but when you make more power you want less gear. You want the right gear spread for your power output. Simple rule of thumb to remember, more power/less gear. there are guys on S2ki that are running 3.90 gear swaps that are making over 500whp. Stock gearing is maximized at about 350/400whp

 

The short gears you think will make it slower on highway pulls really?
I would at some point maybe go to a longer gear especially when I upgrade the pulley but this diff has new gears and all in it which have only been used by me so no launches or anything so wold hate to get someone else's use diff and have no idea how they treated it.

Yeah I had the vafc 1 and just sold it with plug and play harness for $200. Oh well I am sure an emanage or something similar will be more effective and could even be used when I upgrade the pulley I would think.

 

The gears are too short which makes your powerband short, that works pretty good on an N/A car that has no trq, but on the highway you want more time between shifts for the power to take effect propelling you forward on a boosted car. Less shifting is always better as long as you have enough power to pull the gear. You want to go with the tallest gear possible given your engine output to gain the most acceleration. INMOP 4.77 overall are too much for N/A, on a boosted S they are really limiting, but again it will make your car very lively and lose traction in the first two gears FI so that will be fun.

4.30/4.44's are the best compromise from N/A to a boosted car up to about 350whp. I run stock 4.10 but have a lower pro 245/35/17 ive run since I was N/A and at 350whp its really as much gear as I would want to run at this point. First gear is useless from a traction standpoint, as it revs so fast it just spins so that hurts my acceleration, second gear spins at vtec on through redline if I don't baby it so i'm not going anywhere there, the point though is that even if you weren't spinning, your revving the engine quicker but the power isn't getting to the wheels as effectively, you could pull a trailer up a hill allot better though haha. When you downshift to get in the sweet spot on a high geared 4.56/4.77 buy the time you stab the throttle you need to shift again, you lunge 20' and you got to grab another gear and so on, its a crappy way to gain acceleration rather then letting your motor pull you. I dont know if this makes sense or not, you just have to try it to know i guess like anything. I can hear the debates coming already, but debates usually happen when people don't experience both sides.

 

Yeah that makes sense. NA I love the 4.77 gears and couldn't imagine being NA without them. Drove a stock geared s recently and felt so weak in acceleration in comparison.
1st gear already goes by super quick so I can see how that will be crazy with boost.
I think I will keep them at least until I upgrade the pulley and all.
At the same time as going through the gear quicker, wouldn't it help being up in the rpm range quicker since the higher the rpm the more power? Or does it just hurt since you get there but are out of the power quicker than with stock gears or longer ones?

 

Its all a compromise, finding the right compromise is the key, yeah with a centrifugal sc you make more power higher in the rpm range, but if the motor doesn't have the appropriate amount of time in that sweet spot then your not capitalizing on the power to accelerate. On a turbo car it would be even worse since it has a fatter power curve to pull a taller gear lower in the rpms. With a lower boost centrifugal sc it is safe to say that having some extra gear pre vtec to get you out of the hole can be effective still if you have a good tire, but then having a 4.30/stock above vtec where the motor is in its powerband would be most effective there, so in other words a variable auto trans, but we are just splitting hairs and as mentioned the more power you make then pre vtec gearing doesn't matter anymore, because the motor makes enough boost/power to spin a stock gear in first, you never dip below 6k once your moving so obviously if you have enough power to spin at 3k rpm then you will want the taller gearing for when your motor is it its powerband above 6k.

 

Yeah I just hate the bog down feel of pre vtec with stock gears.
How much boost are you making low in the rpm range at 350whp?
It still builds a little boost even down around 3k right?
I would gladly ditch the gears if running higher boost would allow a little more boost down low to help out off the line without launching the car.
Would also help get some cash into my wallet for some other supporting mods and could probably just go straight to higher boost set up.

 

Yes A centrifugal contrary to what some think can make some serious gains pre vtec given the right boost amount. At just a moderate boost of 10psi at redline, you will make 5psi at 5krpm and about 1.5 psi at 3krpm. Here is a pretty accurate breakdown for you, obviously if your running 12/15/18 psi then you could be pushing as much as 8-10psi before you even hit vtec which is where a moderately boosted turbo lies, but above vtec you will blowing fire! SEE YA hahaha 1psi is generally worth 15-20whp 5-8trq

2k .5 psi

3k 1.5psi

4k 4psi

5k 5psi

6k 6.5psi

7k 8psi

8k 9psi

9k 10psi

 

Sweet thanks man. I think then if I just ditch my gears get maybe 700 plus a stock diff for it, with that many can get some injectors pulley and belt and a little extra to go towards an emanage. Unfortunately I am sure I will need a clutch right away with that high boost though.
12 psi should give pretty decent gains lower down I would think then. 6-7 psi at 5k would be awesome!!