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E85 or water/meth injection?

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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:20 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Originally Posted by rmerchant3' timestamp='1461143086' post='23943442
[quote name='s2000Junky' timestamp='1461043609' post='23942348']
Water/meth injection is more effective in combustion cooling. E85 shares in some of the attributes but its primary function is being a lower volatile fuel to control detonation. Injecting water actually cools. Ive run it when supercharged, and its very effective if you execute it properly. Your also not ever bound to a radius of E85 gas stations which is lame.

I took pleasure in filling up my water/meth tank in the trunk. It can last a wile depending on your tank and nozzle size and how often your engaging it. The triggering is relative to boost amount you have set not throttle opening, and boost amount at a given throttle % is based on the pulley size your running. If your running a larger pulley/lower boost then you have to open the throttle more to see boost and less throttle with a small pulley. I saw positive pressure threshold at 30% opening with a 3.2" pulley. But you can call the injection to come in at any desired boost amount.

There is a learning curve in the water/meth injection arena, several types of systems that employ the injection differently and so its important to understand this a bit to know whats going to be most effective for your application. I educated myself when I saw its application benefits on my car. Id suggest doing a little online research to get a grasp, or your at the mercy of a rather limited knowledge base of a tuner. Its really a pretty cool thing (no pun intended ) which has been around/used since WW2 in turbo aircraft engines and later adapted to formula 1 cars in the 70-80's and many other applications in between.
What kit did you end up going with?
I tried the original AEM standalone kit with its progressive controller and that was garbage, due to very poor response time from the point of when it was being called to inject, to the actual time it started injecting. Cant have that, its impossible to tune around and dangerous if heavily relied on. I ended up ditching that and me (and Urban who posted above) put together a simple but much more effective custom single stage kit, utilizing a hobbs pressure switch and solenoid to be the deliver mechanism. Then just used my old AEM pump and tank. Response was instant and could really fine tune when the injection started coming on with the hobbs switch relative to my boost/trigger point I set. It was not a progressive spray however, it was just on/off. I ran this as a single point (pre tb) and then later drilled and tapped each runner for a direction muli point injection system and scrapped the single pre tb injection. I was eventually going to run them in combination with a independent 2 stage system to get best of both worlds, but never got around to it before going back to NA.[/quote]

II had heard that AEM had a good pump, but was unsure about their Hobbs switch. Good info.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:23 AM
  #22  
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also if it bogs you may want to look at your accel tables and see what the coolant and iat enrichment vs temp that might help i had some issues i had to tune out other than the surge
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 03:22 PM
  #23  
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Ok thats weird then. I have an Amuse R1 style vented hood. Going to be making a shroud from where rad fan sits to the vent. If I idle in traffic my iats get up to 140-150 deg. While sitting in my car parked after a 20min highway drive. I watched my temps get up to about 175ish...
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 05:03 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cheddaboy
Ok thats weird then. I have an Amuse R1 style vented hood. Going to be making a shroud from where rad fan sits to the vent. If I idle in traffic my iats get up to 140-150 deg. While sitting in my car parked after a 20min highway drive. I watched my temps get up to about 175ish...
When my Aftercooler pump quit working I saw as high as 152F and it started to detonate when I tried to accelerate around town, which that in itself prompted me to check my IAT and figure out thats what happened. Normally I wouldn't get over 135F with the aftercooler in stop and go traffic in the middle of summer heat at its highest and 120-125F wile cruising. This is with two small chained heat exchangers, not even the big race heat exchanger from SOS which would have been more effective. I think you either need to ditch the fmic for a more conventional air to water heat exchanger set up to regulate IAT heat better when not moving, or at least try V mounting the fmic so that its not sitting right inline with the radiator and the vent in your hood is set up to isolate and evacuate.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 05:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Originally Posted by cheddaboy' timestamp='1461194577' post='23944087
Ok thats weird then. I have an Amuse R1 style vented hood. Going to be making a shroud from where rad fan sits to the vent. If I idle in traffic my iats get up to 140-150 deg. While sitting in my car parked after a 20min highway drive. I watched my temps get up to about 175ish...
When my Aftercooler pump quit working I saw as high as 152F and it started to detonate when I tried to accelerate around town, which that in itself prompted me to check my IAT and figure out thats what happened. Normally I wouldn't get over 135F with the aftercooler in stop and go traffic in the middle of summer heat at its highest and 120-125F wile cruising. This is with two small chained heat exchangers, not even the big race heat exchanger from SOS which would have been more effective. I think you either need to ditch the fmic for a more conventional air to water heat exchanger set up to regulate IAT heat better when not moving, or at least try V mounting the fmic so that its not sitting right inline with the radiator and the vent in your hood is set up to isolate and evacuate.
Even with my air to water setup it was acting the same way and would never cool down even after I get going. So far the intercooler has made it better actually. And the cool thing is I only lost 0.5 psi too. Alot of the time the blower itself is cool to the touch. I feel like its the motor that I need to figure out how to keep cool. I feel like even if the motor was NA I would still have this issue. Im going to try switching my coolant to water and water wetter to see if that helps.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 05:50 PM
  #26  
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Agreed, also I'd say the location of your intake filter is suspect at best. If you think about it, all you are getting is hot air from the radiator, I know the inter cooler is counteracting this to some degree but it can't be helping. It definitely wasn't helping on m after cooled setup
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 06:00 PM
  #27  
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Filter is getting the freshest air possible lol



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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 06:32 PM
  #28  
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Sorry I was referencing your previous photos, strange that you're having so many issues

Maybe you've just gotta live with it?
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 09:16 AM
  #29  
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Doesn't really add up to me, something is off. In my experience you should not be getting 150-175F IAT. That's a engine killer over time.
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 10:54 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Doesn't really add up to me, something is off. In my experience you should not be getting 150-175F IAT. That's a engine killer over time.
That only happens after a drive if the car is parked
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