Okay, but your temperatures are normal when you're just driving around right? or even at WOT?

I also experience heat soak if I park the car after driving it and come back to it 30 minutes or an hour later. There were times when it was so bad that I would turn the engine over and the AFR gauge would read 17-18 AFR. If I just drove the car straight away the engine bay and IAT temperatures would normalise, and the fuel trim would kick in temporarily to prevent the car from stalling/bucking from running so lean

 

dude the stock sensor will heatsoak bad without a thicker manifold gasket stock summer hot temps on ap1 mani sensor i would see near coolant temps then they would drop quick once the car was on the road for a few minutes. i will plug in and see what my hot start iat's are as i dont pay attention to that but idling in 80 degree weather with the a/c on while street tuning meaning 4th gear rips from 2k to redline the park and idle for 5-15 minutes then do it again and again and i never see iats over 130f actually 127 to be exact and around 95-100 part throttle cruising at the same temp it drops on colder days but not below around 80f now in boost it drops and levels off after a few pulls without the meth with the meth it goes below ambient if you go from 1st to fifth reving out each gear so i dont know why your having those temps i wonder if its due to the tai being mounted on the under side of the manifold and how does coolant temp look when the air temps are that high?

 

I agree that the tune needs to be reviewed as there should not be bog but maybe a notice of "some" power loss due to IGN being retarded. Bog is a sure sign that the tune is not were it needs to be. I would also ensure your BOV is sized and setup correctly.

 

Bov I'm using is a Synapse DV with they're softest spring. It flutters at full throttle shifting up abouve 6500rpm. I have a Tial bov I am planning on throwing on there. Not sure what spring I will need but it has the 10psi spring in it now. I will be installing my SPAL fan, a shroud towards the hood vent and will fill up with water+water wetter. See if anything changes. Right now with my tucked rad and a burnt out fan(happened last week)the car stays around 195 deg and spike up to 210ish city driving after 30mins and about 225deg after hoping off the highway(10mins). Never seen it go above 230deg. This is definitely contributing to my issue. I'll post a data log in the next couple days when its nice out.

 

order up a 4psi spring for the tial.

 

I may end up just relocating my sensor. Seems like the cheapest alternative. I'll probably have to get a couple changes done to the tune but EOE on the boards had the exact same issue I'm having and it seems to have fixed it. Literally all the outlined issues listed a couple posts down is exactly what happens to me.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/112...he-iat-sensor/

 

I relocated mine to the aftercooler. I unfortunately have not had a chance to run or tune it with it there yet. If anything, I think it should ginve a more accurate reading and not be subject to as much heat soak.

 

There is great debate as to whether moving the IAT sensor from the manifold is a sensible thing to do, can anyone chime in with success stories? I'm sure your temps are cooler but whether that is actually an accurate representation of the temperature of the air each cylinder is actually receiving is a different story

 

There's a thread somewhere on here about that. I think it is more accurate because the sesnsor is supposed to read the air temperature going INTO the motor. I highly doubt(im no expert) the temperature of the air is as hot as the readings we get. I also think that it was relocated in the later years(ap2)because of the same reason. Either way, i'm sure if you get the car tuned correctly its not an issue.

 

I moved my IAT sensor to the aftercooler and my temps are reliably 15-20 degrees F higher than ambient.