Yep, that's what we did the last couple of days and the differences are smaller. But they are still there, as much as 5%.

The only option is to tune the individual cylinders at every rpm speed seperately. Much more work but I'm sure a much better result in the end.


BRIAN CROWER stage 2 turbo cams

another tyopic but I bought these cams and was wondering if anyone has experience with them. We'll do a full tune on stock cams first and after a full tune on the BC's.

 

Interested in seeing the results of the cam testing.

Sent using free Tapatalk - Android ftw

 

Most of the "turbo" cams in the b series market were junk, most guys went with n/a cams and saw alot better results, I'd think the same would hold true here given the design of the head is similar, if even more superior.

 

turbo cams generally work well with setups that result in exhaust pressure being high compared to intake pressure.

Most good setups with tubular manifolds and modern turbine's do not result in this condition. If I-MAP is roughly equal to Emap then an "NA" cam will work better.

Since you have the engine on an engine dyno and the ability to log everything, I suggest logging exhaust pressure.

 

Good point, i'll see what we can do and report back with testdata.

 

True, I guess I should have elaborated more. Thanks for that.

 

We need some help and or tips I guess... we're out of options with this problem:


Water temperature keeps rising and we can't stop it. temperature of dyno can be regulated and is between 10 and 30 degrees C going in the engine, to simulate warm and cold days.

The AEM EMS Series 2 temp tables were wrong at first, we corrected this after we but in a seperate sensor for precise temps. The tables were off. So that's corrected.


We put in an oem thermostat and put in extra holes to be sure there wasn't any air behind it, but then the engine stays too cold. When we put in a normal thermostat or Mugen, doesn't matter, the engine overheats very fast.

So it looks like there's air in the system but we can't find it. We even lifted up the engine at the front, to simulate what you would do with the engine in the car, but that doesn't help either.

It looks like there isn't any air in the system. But it also looks like the thermostat isn't opening properly. (yes, it's installed correctly)



Anyone got any good ideas we could try?

Thanks.

 

How hot is it getting before you shut it down?

I havent ever had a problem with air in the system on any S that i've worked on.

I have had thermostats stop working when i took them out and put them back in. If its not working but the engine is too cold with it left out, i'd say grab a new one and throw it in there, or drill some holes in it

 

umm head gasket? also i just gotta say this thread has a lot of great info

 

The temp keeps rising to 98 C before we shut it down, we don't want to go any further and mess things up.
We have 3 thermostats:
- oem with 5 extra holes
- oem with 2 extra holes
- mugen with 0 extra holes

With the 5 extra holes the engine doesn't warm up, it stays too cold.
With the 2 extra holes the engine overheats pretty fast without even pushing rpm's and/or boost
With the mugen temps rise a bit slower but still go to 98 and beyond.

Strange thing is when you go off the throttle, and back to stationary, the engine doesn't cool off quickly. It takes 5-10 minutes to get back to 80 C (180F??)

Thermostats aren't broken either, we put them in hot water and they open up at the desired temps.

well maybe the head gasket yes. We installed a brand new one but it's a Cosworth made HG. Maybe it's shutting off the lines somewhere, dunno.

We also installed a new waterpump but that didn't solve anything.

It's as if there is air in the system we can't get out, really frustrating. Could there be air in/near the water pump itself?

We're going to try out some more things.... maybe install an electric pump and push coolant through the system when we want it to do it.