165 should be OK for 9:1. I've gotten higher but this should be OK unless you've got a lot more squish than stock.

I don't have time to go hunting through threads. My main concern is piston-to-wall clearance, I find that VERY few shops that bore/hone actually do this right, or bother to hold proper clearances. You can (and should) go wider than stock w/iron sleeves and aftermarket pistons, and you will get more noise, but not a hideous amount so.

I've seen many shops dick the clearances up by boring or honing too much and then just saying "whatever" and letting the customer deal with it.

As mentioned it could be wrist pin slop but I haven't seen that in practice.

Again, based on your noise I'd say valvetrain but I don't have a great set of PC speakers so there may be a lot of low-frequency "clack" that I am missing.

I wouldn't trust a transferred TCT to fix the problem but I agree it's unlikely to be the issue.

Given what I've seen here I would suggest a leakdown. If that comes up fine (probably will) then I think your only option is to remove the head, inspect it for proper valvetrain assy, no bent valves (sometimes they will escape compression/leakdown tests, but generally won't be noisy), and minimal valve/guide play, then pull one of the slugs and mic the slug and measure the bore and determine the clearance.

.002" IIRC is the stock limit (or .0018"?) and .005" isn't uncommon for turbo builds. .005" will generate some noise, but a relatively quiet clack that will only be noticeable to someone that's relatively familiar with how the engine sounds. Much larger than that and you will get a LOT of clatter.

 

Thanks marcucci. I will do these things. I do have a new TCT ordered and will try that, just wanted to see if that was a quick fix. I will get back with Fyrestryke and see if he has the clearances. Otherwise, I will get my hands dirty again and tear this thing apart.

 

Whoa, just got word of this... The motor definitely did NOT sound like that when it was in my car, almost sounds like a big exhaust leak?

 

Alex, can you tell me the clearance's of the pistons/rings to bore and who did the build? What sleeved did he use?

Checked all exhaust connections and gaskets from mani to mufflers. No leaks.

Everyone please note, I am not upset with Fyrestrike and am NOT trying to make a case for a bad sell. Just trying to figure this out.

 

I'll give the builder a ring tomorrow and see what I can find out.

 

did you check the lost motion is sticking...the hydrolic lifter for the vtec lob...you says that when your vtec the sound disapear!!!. remove the valve cover and push the lifter , they supposed to move freely
could help

 

Ok, more checking this AM. No I don't sleep.

1. The Valvetrain is fully coated with oil when warm (removed cover after warming up)
2. I found a thread following the piston slap from older engines and tried a "down and dirty trick" posted by Slow. I removed the coil from each coil individually while running and the noise did not change with any of the coils disconnected. (supposedly piston slap goes away when spark is missing?)
3. It is almost certain valvetrain noise. I am using Pennzoil 10w30 oil currently and was planning an oil and filter change after 500 miles or so as this engine was new to me. Can oil make a difference?
4. I checked the lost motion/VTEC secondary rocker as described above, and it is functioning correctly.
5. When I remove the dipstick while running, there is an audible sucking sound (vacuum) and when I remove the oil cap while running, the sound does not change and there is clearly a vacuum there as well.
6. All 4 spark plugs look the same. Light gray and baked on. No black and not fouled.

Help.....

 

 

Valvetrain fully coated should all but eliminate oiling issues of the valvetrain as a concern.

I don't know about the piston slap "trick," but I would not trust this. If you can't get accurate cylinder-wall clearance measurements based on the builder's notes, I would open the engine up to make sure they are right. At least with the noises you are hearing.

Why are you almost certain it's valvetrain noise? You say that the clearances are fine, so that all but eliminates valve lash. I doubt it is bent valves, they generally don't make the sort of noise you are hearing.

Oil weight can make a difference, but I have yet to see brand make a difference in noise, and the only oil that would make your motor sound like that would probably be sewing machine oil or something like a pure 0W or lighter.

Sounds like your PCV system is working fine. That also makes it sound like your rings are sealing up well.

My wager at this point is on piston/pin/rod slap or similar.

I just thought... you DID take the retainer pin out of the TCT when you installed it... didn't you?!

 

Is the yellow plastic timing chain guide worn maybe? I just can't see cylinder wall clearance being the issue when this motor made over 200hp on a dyno dynamics machine...