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The turbo im using has ceramic ballbearing center housing and plumbs into the coolant. It actually acts kind of the like the oem'oil cooler" imo(the exhaust gas heat will heat up oil and surrounding coolant when engine is cold getting it up to temperature quicker and the water coolant will cool the oil circulating turbo bearing when it gets hot). I did delete the factory oil cooler donut as the turbo manifold will just heat it up anyway. But other than that no, no external oil cooler or anything it will depend on proper water coolant temperature to cool off the oil.
heres a quick illustration how i have everything connected incase this helps someone in the future:
Last edited by F1TwoThousand; 03-04-2019 at 08:56 PM.
Please have a oil temp gauge. There is much more surface area for heat transfer in the oil cooler than the center section of the turbo. Not saying your idea wont work, but in summer temps id keep my eye on that temp gauge constantly
The turbo im using has ceramic ballbearing center housing and plumbs into the coolant. It actually acts kind of the like the oem'oil cooler
No... Not even close. Do not expect it to cool the overall oil in your engine, to any extent like the factory heat exchanger. The ceramic ball bearing doesn't really have any significance in this either... My "lesser" journal bearing turbo's were/are also water cooled, which is pretty standard these days.
Originally Posted by F1TwoThousand
" imo(the exhaust gas heat will heat up oil and surrounding coolant when engine is cold getting it up to temperature quicker and the water coolant will cool the oil circulating turbo bearing when it gets hot). I did delete the factory oil cooler donut as the turbo manifold will just heat it up anyway. But other than that no, no external oil cooler or anything it will depend on proper water coolant temperature to cool off the oil.
Proper shielding and insulation will keep the turbo from heating up the sandwich. If Robert Thorne can use a factory heat exchanger on 650+ whp track car driven at professional levels (with a rocket near the cooler), I'm sure you can keep it from getting heat soaked on a car I assume is just a street car.
Originally Posted by F1TwoThousand
heres a quick illustration how i have everything connected incase this helps someone in the future:
The manifold was so close on my oil filter, I had to get a 90 degree adapter to keep the two from touching. I have been using an external cooler since the car was NA as I use this as a track car.
In an ideal world itd be great to have oil temp and pressure info access its a win win but to add it isnt as simple as it sounds. Im not really concerned with oil temp or oil pressure sensors. Its not worth the cost of the sensors, the possibility of oil fitting leaks, the added space taken up, the complexity of running the wiring, heat shielding the wiring and lines, setting it up on the ecu and programming all the failsafes. And the slight loss of oil pressure of running an external oil cooler and its expense are not worth it to me. I've yet to hear of a vehicles oil overheating and killing an engine, and as far as oil pressure if there is a loss of oil pressure then the engine will probably be damaged by the time all the fail-safes kick in anyway. What i will focus on is coolant temperatures, afr and engine knock failsafes. It is a daily driven street car not planning on track racing or anything like that just a fun street car with rolling anti-lag highway pulls is my goal.
Last edited by F1TwoThousand; 03-05-2019 at 07:41 PM.
Good luck. I speak from a lot of experience. You're just going to get oil pressure loss from heat and break down the oil more quickly.
Hell, Honda thought it was worth the money on an NA street car. Proper failsafes will catch you before you go too far. Oil temperature won't track with coolant in any means now, so coolant temp is just one aspect. I'd put that cooler back on. The amount of heat you're putting in that engine bay with all the excessive piping will make your problem worse.
Imo best way to combat high oil temperatures are cool engine coolant temps. Best way to combat oil pressure issues is not messing with the oem system and keeping fittings/plumbing length to an absolute minimum, but to each his own.
this is what i ended up using for the turbo oil feed a simple 1/8bspt fitting to the block and an 18" 4an fitting to the turbo. Really simple setup
Last edited by F1TwoThousand; 03-05-2019 at 07:51 PM.
No, oil will run much hotter, especially when you add a turbo and more power. In fact, you want the oil to be hotter than coolant to burn off moisture, however, how hot you want to get is largely oil dependant, to a point (which all affects oil pressure). This isn't a guessing game or an opinion. I've seen cars cook oil when the water temp was "normal".
You already messed with the OEM system... In a negative way. But if you think adding power, while running oil through a hot turbo, without any oil cooling at all is good, have at it. At a minimum, you should monitor oil temperature. Hell, you're speculating on oil pressure and you've noted that you don't want to monitor it?! Sensors are cheaper than a motor.
You've gotten solid advice. If you do not want to listen to reason, that is on you.
Read plenty on the matter, i've taken the steps i felt necessary to combat the pressure and temp issues. I've decided not to run the sensors and have actually been turbod for the last 40k miles with no issues. If the engine oil somehow ends up being cooked i'll be sure to post up but dont hold your breath.
I said the turbo has coolant plumbed to the centerhousing which will only help cool oil temps, no one on this forun thinks a turbo acts as an oil cooler. Yes 40k miles, i had an oil filter relocation kit before but no need with this new manifold so off it went.
03-04-2019, 08:53 PM
