The Goal: Make +400whp daily driven w/Pump Gas on a bad day with a Vortech V2 Trim Blower Kit and standalone AEM EMS

Increase Displacement to 2.4liter or 20%, That would almost equate to a 5th Cylinder

A bigger engine will always make more power than a smaller one, especially where it needs it, Low-end to mid-range

Hello, This is Brian Barbour and I'm with AUTOMOTIVE PERFORMANCE in Fayetteville NC, I bought a 02 S2000 that is extremely Clean that had what appears to have a Rod Knock. Well My Boss that runs the place has been an Enginge Builder for 40y. So we gonna fix that Honda...and then some. As far as My Boss, Tony Raimondo who is very well know in our community has been turbo charging 510 Datsuns in the early 70's to building 700+ cubic inch Big Block Sonny engines. So I'am very excited to do this build. Especially having Tony on my side.

So far it has been 3 days since I took Delivery on the Vehicle and Have pulled the Engine and stripped the Engine to a long block.




Josh & Josh and me taking the Pic, getting ready to have some Fun!


Josh Removing The Header


Should have used the Torches and that thing would have been out in 20min.

 

Pics don't work.

 

BTW: for anyone pulling this motor and Tranny, this was a job and a Half and you better get Organized because this engine has 5 miles worth of Heater Hoses and 150 different Bolts.
I pulled a 6cyl BMW 325I engine and it wasn't as difficult.
Has anyone tried to remove the Harmonic Balancer bolt yet well, First I tried my 3/8 Snap-on Air Gun, then My Matco 1/2" Air Gun, then I used a 3/4" Breaker Bar that is
3 1/2' long and Broke my cornwell 3/4' to 1/2' adapter socket, Finally used an 3/4" Impact Gun, came off like charm with the 3/4" impact.
Also the biggest struggle was to reach the upper bell housing bolts, we had to get pretty creative, to get these.


Here are some pics from the Supercharger, I just Bought

 

I also just Sold my 1991 Chevy S10 Truck Tonight, which is probably one of the Cleanest, I have ever seen, More S2000 Parts...Yay

 

PS. I hate pulling motors from this car.

 

Pulling the motor isn't too bad, after you've done it twice haha. The crank pulley is always an issue if it has never been off before. A 6 ft extension is usually needed, along with the tool to hold the crank pulley.

I like how all the SC parts are just thrown into a box, im sure its all scratched to hell


Ohh, and welcome to the FI community. We are good people who help one another out

 

Well Thank you so Kindly, I'm sure it will not be as bad for the second time, I was just amazed of all the Heater Hoses and Brackets. I think it took me 30-40 min to take the Intake manifold off once I had it on the Engine Stand, I can't imagine doing it in the Vehicle.

I am also not to worried about scratches, I probably will murder the SC out with some Semi-Black.

I will try to make some progress every 48H so stay Tuned, I'm pulling the Pistons out Today!

 

I agree about the hoses and brackets. The good part is you can remove some brackets while your in there. The intake manifold brackets is what im referring to.

What are your plans for the engine? The cylinder walls are special fiber reinforced, only one brand has a set of pistons that work with the sleeves, otherwise youll need to get the block sleeved. As far as bearings, only use oem honda bearings.

When it comes time to bleed the coolant, be sure to remove the firewall bleeder cap along with the bleeder on the cyl1 runner of the intake manifold. I like to use a custom funnel on the firewall bleeder, as it is the highest point in the coolant system.

Sent from my Android Phone using Tapatalk

 

450WHP is my Goal but would like to increase low-end and mid-range power with the help of a K24 Crank which I should be receiving on tuesday and the Plans are to rebuild this engine and making it 15psi friendly with some 87mm forged dish pistons. The Block will definitely have to be sleeved due to the the Damage in Cyl#1 also, I'm not a big fan of FRM cylinders due to the excessive oil consumption. We will probably Dry sleeve it and call it quits, no need for crazy Darton Sleeves, I put that 1000.00 towards other stuff, if for whatever reason the block dosen't hold up, oh well, i'm not afraid to pull it out again.
Saturday, I went to the shop by myself and completely disassemble the engine and cyl head and ran everything through the VAT. Phase 1 is Complete!
Enjoy the Pic's






Starting to Remove the Timing Chains!



Things go Faster with Air tools!


`
It is Best to keep Valve-train Parts together so there will not be any confusion when it comes to re-assemble it, Did that mistake once!



Doesn't look to bad for 95K Miles



OUCH Cylinder Walls! This engine starved for oil once and ate up the Cyl. Walls, this motor had major Piston Slap, almost sounded like a Rod Knock





Rod Bearings have minimal wear






My Bosses Snap-on Adapter snapped off when we tried to remove the Harmonic Balancer Bolt and thats 3/4" Drive


I marked the Rods with a dremel



Now we are Getting somewhere! Crankshaft...Tadda



95K Miles and this is Living Proof that Synthetics work...No Sludge! BTW we are all great supporters of AMS OIL
Check out AMSOIL.COM , they have a nice tool that tells you everything from capacities to torque specs.
We run AMS OIL in all our Race Engines with great success.

 

Here is our Cleaner





Everything will have to be Cleaned again after Sleeving, Boring and Honing

Keeping Everything Organized is the Key





Taking the Head Apart








Keep a Magnet Handy, Keepers Love to Fly Away





Nice ports from the Factory, anymore porting and you are loosing power, just leave it alone!





Valves being Beat Blasted





Clean Exhaust Valve v.s. 95K Dirty Valve







All Clean now