S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

F24 Vortech Blower Build

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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 11:40 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Torque Obsessed
This is my favorite thing to do. Buy some parts, take shit apart, modify it, put it all back together and slap it on the dyno to see what it does. It's not about hitting a certain goal or being the best; it's about having fun trying stuff and learning. Many of us already know the standard methods for modding these cars, but we don't know what ELSE works or how well it does / doesn't work. I'm gonna enjoy this thread!
sub'd for the same reason
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 01:37 AM
  #22  
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Hello ! any news?
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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Ok it has been a two weeks or so and we made some progress, yesterday we finished the block with the Steel sleeve install. It was very Labor intensive and my boss was working on my Block only on Saturday's since Customers stuff has priority. Getting the Sleeve in, everything had to be right on, without makin any mistakes. The Sleeves are 2mm Sleeves with a 0.0015" Press fit














ALL FOUR SLEEVES ARE INSTALLED

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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 09:00 PM
  #24  
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Here Are Some parts I will be Using...
BTW, after comparing stock Rod and Piston, The H-Beam K1 Rod and Wiseco Piston is 113g lighter than stock per set, so I'm loosing almost a pound in rotating mass but probably will gain some with the K24 Crank





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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:50 PM
  #25  
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Looking good! Thanks for the updates, can't wait to see this finished with results!
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 11:13 AM
  #26  
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nice build. i cant wait too see your results. if you looking for low end torque you should really sell the supercharger and get a turbo setup with an equal length manifold and a gtx3076r.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 07:48 AM
  #27  
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Well, I apreciate your input but I'm not going turbo. I will also have 400cc more displacement which should increase mid range by an avr. of 50ft.lb. also if I'm going to be unhappy than I can always unbolt the S/C and convert to turbo if I decide later, for now the S/C is the most simplistic and affordable choice
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Bigfootexpert
Well, I apreciate your input but I'm not going turbo. I will also have 400cc more displacement which should increase mid range by an avr. of 50ft.lb. also if I'm going to be unhappy than I can always unbolt the S/C and convert to turbo if I decide later, for now the S/C is the most simplistic and affordable choice
Are those K24 / F20c rods or K24 / H22 ?

they don't seem to be @ 5.63" like stated on K1 website for ref#HH5630AEGB4 Honda Honda S2000/K24 Conversion Rod but the correct 145.5mm/5.73 " lenght to use those rods with F20c (30mm compression height) pistons, does the small end is the correct 23mm pin and not 22 like the k1 website states ?

Thanks, that would free up the headache of custom rods.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:36 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bigfootexpert
These are called F20/K24 Conversion Rods and are designed with the Wiseco Pistons. You will still have to modify the K24 Crank and Ballance everything. As soon as you use aftermarket Rods and Pistons you change the BOB weight and the whole assembly will need to be ballanced again. I'm sure some people skip that step and probably get away with it but I would not recomend it.
+1 Esp in a motor such as the F20/22 and now the 24. These engines need to rev to make power and have such tight tolerances, differences of just a few grams coupled to 8k+ is a lot of resistance in the spinning motion and therefore loss in power. Ultimately, it can lead to uneven bearing wear and inevitably, scar up your bearing journals. Spend the extra couple hundred to get everything balanced and have peace of mind.
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #30  
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Ok, made some progress. The block is completely machined and clearanced for the stroker assembly. The Block is Decked to Zero Deck which is perfect since we will be using a COMETIC .045" or 1.14mm thick HG. In the following pics, It shows where we had to notch the Pistons for the oilers, wanna make sure everything stays lubricated and cool. We are also done with the Pre-assembly and now, everything can be taken apart so we can send off the Crankshaft to be balanced. Two days Ago, I ordered a new ATI Balancer, XXR 521 Wheels and tires. Also have some 1000cc Deatschwerks Injectors and 400GPH pump coming, so if everything goes well, I should be at the dyno in 4 Weeks. I tell you, all the machining and pre-fit and pre-assembly takes the most amount of time than any other aspect of this build.




My Buddy Scott helping out tremendous with his machining skills



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