That is very high. I have seen them all day in Tampa for $400.

How much HP are you planning? Clutch drops?

The Stock rearend has handled 500rwhp without clutch drops. I just Cryo them and see what happens. The comptech straps will help but not solve all the problems.

 

I'm gonna look up the nissan diffs when I get some time to figure out the differences between the NA and TT diffs.... I really really want to use the TT diff. I really don't want toget that 4.08 FD of the NA... I believe the FD of the TT is 3.692... more to my liking

 

A lot of people in here drag race their cars...and in order to do that they have to launch hard... and if they if they do that, they can even break it in stock trim without FI

 

jc, how much do you charge to cryo the stock AP1 diff?

 

Good thing I used to work for DSS

 

the kit will include,

Driveshaft shop stage 5 axles, hubs, extended studs, driveshaft as well as our brackets which is made out of 6061 aluminum.

The diff will not be included, as we can't warranty any of the "used junkyard" diffs out there. As far as the twin turbo diff, the pumpkin is huge. They do make lower final drives for the non turbo diff, so thats also an option.

 

Ok cool, didn't even think about axles Then it's a pretty good price

 

Speaking with John @ Inline - the 300ZX Twin Turbo is an R230 differential, as opposed to the 300ZX Non-Turbo R200. The difference is that the output shaft, making it not work with the Conversion Kit!

The R200 diff comes with a 4.08 final drive while the R230 comes with a 3.692. Both differentials are offered with a Viscous LSD.


The pricing for this conversion kit is absolutely amazing - stage 5 axles from Driveshaftshop are $1,600 themself. So, you are basically paying $1,300 for a driveshaft, hubs, extended studs, and all the bracketry to make the diff fit. Which.. in my eyes will rid the S2000 of it's driveline issues that high horsepower cars are experiencing!

 

As has already been pointed out, some people break their differentials with stock motors while others are running upwards of 500 WHP without having any problems. It has also been asserted that the difference is that some launch hard and some don't. If anyone launches any harder than this (that irritating beeping is my shift-beeper going nuts as the engine bounces off the rev-limiter due to wheelspin), I'd like to know how.

I have had ZERO problems with the stock differential, so I have to believe that the difference here is not how hard the launches are, but rather how the hard launches are executed.

I *am* running an upgraded rear end now, with the Comptech straps, 4.30:1 gears, and a KAAZ LSD, but the upgade had nothing to do with problems from the stock diff. The LSD is a *huge* improvement, but only if you're willing to put up with the downsides of a clutch-type LSD. Whether the case is less likely to crack with the clutch-type LSD is an unknown (because I don't generally crack diff cases), but I doubt that that it will make any difference. If you're going to crack the diff, you're going to crack it, with or without the stock Torsen LSD.

You're the only person who knows how hard you are on the equipment, so you're the only person who really has any idea of how much extra strength you might need in the differential. If you are running larger rear tires (more grip) and an upgraded clutch then you're putting a heavier load on the diff, and are more likely to need an upgrade. With S02's and reasonable care the stock diff can live with over twice the stock WHP ... or if given less reasonable treatment it can fail even when the motor is stock. Many others have said this, and I hate to say it because it's asking for trouble, but I'm convinced the stock diff is plenty strong enough to deliver all the torque the stock tires can put to the ground; If anyone is going to prove that false, it's going to be me, because I am *not* easy on the car.

 

^^ RED MX5 did hit some good points, the life of your drivetrain does depend on the driver. However, one thing that could have been over-looked, or perhaps I just misunderstood is that a higher launch is not neccisarily a 'harder' launch. While launching the car in vtec closer to redline you will get a bit of excessive wheel spin, putting less stress on the drivetrain. While if you launch lower, and the car bogs it will put more stress.

However, everyone comments on breaking the differential being a direct result of launching - there are several other determining factors. Dave22, pushing a stock vortech unit snapped his differential one night on the way back from a dyno meet. The light was red, as soon as it went green he punched it - it was snapped by time he reached the other side of the intersection, he did not launch the car.

Both my driver and passenger side axles have gone bad - to date I have launched my car twice. Once at 2700 rpms while stock, once at 3200rpms with a Comptech Blower and 7psi Pulley.

All in all - like everone has stated it is up to you. Since I had to replace both my axles and will be pushing more than 350whp, the max limit of a driveshaftshop stage 2 axle I figured that I will need stage 5 anyway. Why spend the $1600 + shipping for that, then still have to worry about the diff ever going bad - might as well drop the other $1,400... and know your driveline is almost bulletproof!