FI ..now which diff
Originally Posted by Black Nugget,Aug 15 2006, 12:45 PM
^^ RED MX5 did hit some good points, the life of your drivetrain does depend on the driver. However, one thing that could have been over-looked, or perhaps I just misunderstood is that a higher launch is not neccisarily a 'harder' launch. While launching the car in vtec closer to redline you will get a bit of excessive wheel spin, putting less stress on the drivetrain. While if you launch lower, and the car bogs it will put more stress.
However, everyone comments on breaking the differential being a direct result of launching - there are several other determining factors. Dave22, pushing a stock vortech unit snapped his differential one night on the way back from a dyno meet. The light was red, as soon as it went green he punched it - it was snapped by time he reached the other side of the intersection, he did not launch the car.
Both my driver and passenger side axles have gone bad - to date I have launched my car twice. Once at 2700 rpms while stock, once at 3200rpms with a Comptech Blower and 7psi Pulley.
All in all - like everone has stated it is up to you. Since I had to replace both my axles and will be pushing more than 350whp, the max limit of a driveshaftshop stage 2 axle I figured that I will need stage 5 anyway. Why spend the $1600 + shipping for that, then still have to worry about the diff ever going bad - might as well drop the other $1,400... and know your driveline is almost bulletproof!
However, everyone comments on breaking the differential being a direct result of launching - there are several other determining factors. Dave22, pushing a stock vortech unit snapped his differential one night on the way back from a dyno meet. The light was red, as soon as it went green he punched it - it was snapped by time he reached the other side of the intersection, he did not launch the car.
Both my driver and passenger side axles have gone bad - to date I have launched my car twice. Once at 2700 rpms while stock, once at 3200rpms with a Comptech Blower and 7psi Pulley.
All in all - like everone has stated it is up to you. Since I had to replace both my axles and will be pushing more than 350whp, the max limit of a driveshaftshop stage 2 axle I figured that I will need stage 5 anyway. Why spend the $1600 + shipping for that, then still have to worry about the diff ever going bad - might as well drop the other $1,400... and know your driveline is almost bulletproof!
Originally Posted by 2 fast for u,Aug 15 2006, 04:08 PM
There was another sponsor which offer a kit I think it was Differential Techniques a company in Australia. I believe Fperra purchase one. Price was around 3000 with differential
Diff Technics Site
The closest thing that Diff Technics has to Inline Pro that includes a differential is this :
R200A rear into S2000 Honda Brackets, One pair of 1000HP C.V.'s, one Re-built Nissan rear (4.1 Viscous LSD) and one Steel driveshaft including adapters to run universal joints.
This kit cost $3,309 + shipping.
However, not including a differential Diff Technics does have something similar to Inline Pro's Kit :
R200A rear into S2000 Honda Brackets, One pair of 1000HP C.V.'s and one Aluminium Driveshaft including adapters to run universal joints -No rear customer must supply own unit (R33 GTS-T Skyline 2.5L Turbo 5 spd Manaul).
This kit cost $2,950.
Don't know about you, but I'd rather place a call to Northern Virginia than Australia for assistance!
Plus I'm sure shipping internationally might hurt... I had contacted Diff Technics a long time ago and was quoted about $350-400, can not remember exact amount for shipping to Virginia.
Originally Posted by CaptKirk,Aug 15 2006, 11:26 AM
A lot of people in here drag race their cars...and in order to do that they have to launch hard... and if they if they do that, they can even break it in stock trim without FI 

Scorpion has low 12 sec runs with a stock diff and close to 400 hp.
If you want to drag race you should be prepared to by and good clutch, the inline pro rearend, and a tranny conversion, ( that will go next).
Originally Posted by bigpurp,Aug 15 2006, 12:34 PM
jc, how much do you charge to cryo the stock AP1 diff?
Originally Posted by jcarlton,Aug 15 2006, 05:58 PM
$120 for everything but the axles and the alum housing. I loosen the torsion unit bolts and cryo everything. At the slow rate my processor cycles, everything gets done. the housing, torsion unit, bearings, and gears. The only thing you need to do is replace the axle and yoke seals.
Originally Posted by Black Nugget,Aug 15 2006, 01:20 PM
Tad bit more expensive than that, plus the cost of shipping something of this size from Australia to United States.
Diff Technics Site
The closest thing that Diff Technics has to Inline Pro that includes a differential is this :
R200A rear into S2000 Honda Brackets, One pair of 1000HP C.V.'s, one Re-built Nissan rear (4.1 Viscous LSD) and one Steel driveshaft including adapters to run universal joints.
This kit cost $3,309 + shipping.
However, not including a differential Diff Technics does have something similar to Inline Pro's Kit :
R200A rear into S2000 Honda Brackets, One pair of 1000HP C.V.'s and one Aluminium Driveshaft including adapters to run universal joints -No rear customer must supply own unit (R33 GTS-T Skyline 2.5L Turbo 5 spd Manaul).
This kit cost $2,950.
Don't know about you, but I'd rather place a call to Northern Virginia than Australia for assistance!
Plus I'm sure shipping internationally might hurt... I had contacted Diff Technics a long time ago and was quoted about $350-400, can not remember exact amount for shipping to Virginia.
Diff Technics Site
The closest thing that Diff Technics has to Inline Pro that includes a differential is this :
R200A rear into S2000 Honda Brackets, One pair of 1000HP C.V.'s, one Re-built Nissan rear (4.1 Viscous LSD) and one Steel driveshaft including adapters to run universal joints.
This kit cost $3,309 + shipping.
However, not including a differential Diff Technics does have something similar to Inline Pro's Kit :
R200A rear into S2000 Honda Brackets, One pair of 1000HP C.V.'s and one Aluminium Driveshaft including adapters to run universal joints -No rear customer must supply own unit (R33 GTS-T Skyline 2.5L Turbo 5 spd Manaul).
This kit cost $2,950.
Don't know about you, but I'd rather place a call to Northern Virginia than Australia for assistance!
Plus I'm sure shipping internationally might hurt... I had contacted Diff Technics a long time ago and was quoted about $350-400, can not remember exact amount for shipping to Virginia.
Actually Im hoping for Fperra to chime in with opinions of his set up.
Originally Posted by Black Nugget,Aug 15 2006, 03:45 PM
^^ RED MX5 did hit some good points, the life of your drivetrain does depend on the driver. However, one thing that could have been over-looked, or perhaps I just misunderstood is that a higher launch is not neccisarily a 'harder' launch. While launching the car in vtec closer to redline you will get a bit of excessive wheel spin, putting less stress on the drivetrain. While if you launch lower, and the car bogs it will put more stress.
However, everyone comments on breaking the differential being a direct result of launching - there are several other determining factors. Dave22, pushing a stock vortech unit snapped his differential one night on the way back from a dyno meet. The light was red, as soon as it went green he punched it - it was snapped by time he reached the other side of the intersection, he did not launch the car.
Both my driver and passenger side axles have gone bad - to date I have launched my car twice. Once at 2700 rpms while stock, once at 3200rpms with a Comptech Blower and 7psi Pulley.
All in all - like everone has stated it is up to you. Since I had to replace both my axles and will be pushing more than 350whp, the max limit of a driveshaftshop stage 2 axle I figured that I will need stage 5 anyway. Why spend the $1600 + shipping for that, then still have to worry about the diff ever going bad - might as well drop the other $1,400... and know your driveline is almost bulletproof!
However, everyone comments on breaking the differential being a direct result of launching - there are several other determining factors. Dave22, pushing a stock vortech unit snapped his differential one night on the way back from a dyno meet. The light was red, as soon as it went green he punched it - it was snapped by time he reached the other side of the intersection, he did not launch the car.
Both my driver and passenger side axles have gone bad - to date I have launched my car twice. Once at 2700 rpms while stock, once at 3200rpms with a Comptech Blower and 7psi Pulley.
All in all - like everone has stated it is up to you. Since I had to replace both my axles and will be pushing more than 350whp, the max limit of a driveshaftshop stage 2 axle I figured that I will need stage 5 anyway. Why spend the $1600 + shipping for that, then still have to worry about the diff ever going bad - might as well drop the other $1,400... and know your driveline is almost bulletproof!
Was Dave running stock tires and clutch?
Bogging is bad, and doing repeated burnouts or any burnout when the diff oil is extremely hot is apt to promote failure, and the latter is probably harder on the diff than the former.
I'm not sure it is even possible to list every possible contributing factor, but as with any car that's being modified, it's always wise to budget some funds for unexpected breakage.
Is your car lowered? I'm wondering if your axle failures might be a result of lowering and not using axle spacers. ???
Originally Posted by RED MX5,Aug 15 2006, 07:38 PM
In addition to bogging the car, some of the failures seem to be due to overheating the diff. Between burnouts I always drive the car around and give the diff time to cool down. Perhaps (just guessing, of course) Dave22's diff was overheated during the dyno pulls. ???
Was Dave running stock tires and clutch?
Bogging is bad, and doing repeated burnouts or any burnout when the diff oil is extremely hot is apt to promote failure, and the latter is probably harder on the diff than the former.
I'm not sure it is even possible to list every possible contributing factor, but as with any car that's being modified, it's always wise to budget some funds for unexpected breakage.
Is your car lowered? I'm wondering if your axle failures might be a result of lowering and not using axle spacers. ???
Was Dave running stock tires and clutch?
Bogging is bad, and doing repeated burnouts or any burnout when the diff oil is extremely hot is apt to promote failure, and the latter is probably harder on the diff than the former.
I'm not sure it is even possible to list every possible contributing factor, but as with any car that's being modified, it's always wise to budget some funds for unexpected breakage.
Is your car lowered? I'm wondering if your axle failures might be a result of lowering and not using axle spacers. ???

The comments of the axles were not to try and discover the cause of my problem, I am rather sure it was a combination of several factors yet it was to show that launching the car is not the sole factor in problems. Several times on these boards people do comment that, "your stock differential will be fine as long as you do not launch the car". I have seen owners that launch the car rather often - such as a close friend of mine s2k_pikestyle go problem free, while some members who do not launch their car, Dave22 snap theirs.
icemans2k02 - I am sorry to seem like I may be taking your thread off-topic. The single point to my post is to make you aware that the differential is commonly referred to as the 'weaklink' for the S2000 drivetrain. Yet, just like a television for your home - you never know when it could go. Some TV's are known to last forever, while some go at the drop of a hat. In my opinion, while you're upgrading the furniture, the carpet, painting the walls, adding a full surround system - why wouldn't you get a better tv in there too?
Originally Posted by Black Nugget,Aug 15 2006, 07:54 PM
icemans2k02 - I am sorry to seem like I may be taking your thread off-topic. The single point to my post is to make you aware that the differential is commonly referred to as the 'weaklink' for the S2000 drivetrain.

The clutch and tires work like a fusable links to protect the diff. XViper has probably done more hard launches than any other S2kI member, SC/AC, high miles, and NO failures. The failures are either the result of owner/driver abuse, improving the clutch and traction without upgrading the rest of the driveline, or just a slew of defective diffs from Honda (and I consider the latter to be highly unlikely).
For me or XViper, running in the neighborhood of 300 WHP, a heavier diff would only add unneeded weight without improving reliability. However, you and I *DO* agree that one should budget for breakage. I just don't believe in adding weight that hasn't been proven to be necessary, and I don't believe in spending money on parts that won't do me any good. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

IOW, if you're installing a new Home Theater and you already have a state of the art monitor that fills the room, it just doesn't make sense to upgrade it (until it deteoriates due to old age).
When XViper or I blow our diffs I'll be telling a different story
, but until then I can't see the need in putting a heavier diff when there are two fusable links protecting the stock diff.Add bigger tires and a HD clutch and it's a whole new ballgame. I *will* be upgrading the clutch, diff, and axles, *BEFORE* going to grippier tires, because it is a given that the weakest link (the clutch in our cars, not the diff) is what will go first (sans abuse). Doing so before that flies in the face of the reliability others have had with the stock diff. We hear about EVERY failure, but rarely hear from the (vast) majority of people who have no failures, and that's misleading.
Stock diff is plenty strong enough for the stock clutch and tires, *given reasonable care.* This has been proven beyond any doubt by dozens of other S2000 members experience. People with stock engines blow the diff, burn up the clutch, and break axles, more often that those with power adders, so it does not appear to be the power adders that are causing the breakage. It seems to be the way the cars are used and abused.
Certainly when a car fails during a gentle launch, as you've described, it isn't the gentle launch that caused the failure. If that was the case we'd all be breaking diffs and axles. Something happened *before* Dave's diff broke, leading to the failure. I have to believe that XViper's experience (and my own) pretty well prove this beyond any doubt.
LOL, I don't actually know for a fact that the Nissan diffs are heavier, and I should, 'cause we've got a shop full of GTR's. For sure, they LOOK a lot heavier, and in my case it would just be just dead weight.
alot of useful information, i am pushing a little over 330 whp on my S and there is a guy locally with an 04 pushing close to same. He has gone through 2 diffs in about 6 months, i know i do not drive as hard as him but i do drive hard. I was looking for possible solutions. experience is great but when it boils down to it, its only an opinion not a solution. Dont get me wrong i appreciate the feedback and dont take your experience lightly. My sig shows what mods i have and with 9" tires in the rear, i do need some support in the back. I think this is something needed for some owners otherwise i dont think a company like inline pro would be spending money on R & D for the fun of it.



