Finally got the car on a dyno...
He's getting the traditional turbo dip at VTEC (as usually seen with exhaust restriction), so the car would have to be switching out of VTEC later, which doesn't seem likely. Doesn't take much pressure to switch the pins either, so if oil pressure is dropping at high rpms the engine may have other issues.
UL
UL
I'm pretty sure your problem is with the VTEC. Try unplugging it (front, top corner on the passenger side of the engine) and if the problem is still the same, then you are not getting the correct amount of oil pressure to the VTEC solenoid. If you are supplying your turbo's oil from the factory oil pressure sending unit area, then this is your problem. You are taking too much pressure(to feed the turbo) from the VTEC soleniod to let it properly work. The VTEC oil supply and your turbo oil supply are on the same gally in the head. VTEC needs (I believe) at least 58 psi to work properly. If you are using an oil filter relocation kit, then you can tap the oil feed to the turbo in the adapter block on the block of the engine. I know this because I had the same problem and when I did what I just explained, it fixed the problem completely. Good luck.
Chadd
Chadd
Originally Posted by Spoolin,Jul 7 2005, 12:27 PM
I'm pretty sure your problem is with the VTEC. Try unplugging it (front, top corner on the passenger side of the engine) and if the problem is still the same, then you are not getting the correct amount of oil pressure to the VTEC solenoid. If you are supplying your turbo's oil from the factory oil pressure sending unit area, then this is your problem. You are taking too much pressure(to feed the turbo) from the VTEC soleniod to let it properly work. The VTEC oil supply and your turbo oil supply are on the same gally in the head. VTEC needs (I believe) at least 58 psi to work properly. If you are using an oil filter relocation kit, then you can tap the oil feed to the turbo in the adapter block on the block of the engine. I know this because I had the same problem and when I did what I just explained, it fixed the problem completely. Good luck.
Chadd
Chadd
Well, The UR kit is installed as per spec, except we tapped the oilpan for the return instead of the actual block.
I don't completely follow what you did to remedy the situation. Are you familiar with how the UR kit is set up, and can you further tell me what you did?
Thanks a ton.
Tom
On the Gen 1 UR turbo kit (which I have but is upgraded to Gen 2 now) the oil supply to the turbo is T'd into the same place as the factory oil pressure sending unit. This place for an oil feed to the turbo isn't good unless you use a reducer to the turbo to limit the amount of oil it gets. This also isn't a good place to go for an oil feed to the turbo because that gally in the head of the engine is shared with the VTEC solenoid. This will reduce the amount of pressure to VTEC and (in my case) could keep it from engaging correctly. So, to fix this(which this is how UR does their oil feed now) I took the oil feed to the turbo from the oil filter relocation block that's located on the block of the engine.
Ok, here's my dirty history with getting my turbo S2k to perform and it had nothing to do with an exhaust restriction or the cat or the factory exhaust. When I first put it together, I would hit VTEC, didn't feel like it was coming on, the hit a brick wall in power after 5-6k RPM.
1) Moved the oil source for the turbo to the Canton block adapter- felt VTEC kick in some power gain, but still didn't feel major pull at top end after 6k, though started to pull more
2) Realized that the wastegate actuator body came loose and was wobling (Tial Deltagate type) it would move when hit with a mallet. Opened it up, set screw came loose, ratcheted it down and made sure that the valve was sealing.
This provided a major gain in power, pulled all the way to redline.
3) Felt like it was missing a little bit under some boost, changed out the Spark Plugs, gapped to 25, made more power, cleaner engine song, eliminated rough combustion.
4) Now to get rid of stupid surging under part throttle as it built boost. Disconnected vacuum to HKS SS BOV, and surge went away, so ratcheted down adjustment, no more surge, and faster now as well.
After all of the above, the butt dyno is now telling me 260 hp vs, about 215 when I got started. I'm on 5 psi of boost, stock cat, stock exhaust, running around 12.25's A/F ratio, .82 AR, Wastegate to atmosphere.
I got my kit second hand, but when I first got it, the main thing I noticed was how warped the flanges were, I had them surfaced and no leaks since. They are even warped from the fabricator of the kit, new! My kit is similar to the UR kit. You have to watch those flanges, you may be leaking exhaust pressure.
1) Moved the oil source for the turbo to the Canton block adapter- felt VTEC kick in some power gain, but still didn't feel major pull at top end after 6k, though started to pull more
2) Realized that the wastegate actuator body came loose and was wobling (Tial Deltagate type) it would move when hit with a mallet. Opened it up, set screw came loose, ratcheted it down and made sure that the valve was sealing.
This provided a major gain in power, pulled all the way to redline.
3) Felt like it was missing a little bit under some boost, changed out the Spark Plugs, gapped to 25, made more power, cleaner engine song, eliminated rough combustion.
4) Now to get rid of stupid surging under part throttle as it built boost. Disconnected vacuum to HKS SS BOV, and surge went away, so ratcheted down adjustment, no more surge, and faster now as well.
After all of the above, the butt dyno is now telling me 260 hp vs, about 215 when I got started. I'm on 5 psi of boost, stock cat, stock exhaust, running around 12.25's A/F ratio, .82 AR, Wastegate to atmosphere.
I got my kit second hand, but when I first got it, the main thing I noticed was how warped the flanges were, I had them surfaced and no leaks since. They are even warped from the fabricator of the kit, new! My kit is similar to the UR kit. You have to watch those flanges, you may be leaking exhaust pressure.
The A/F ratios are just fine. Autologic was attempting to tune the car, but was unsuccessful. They are currently going to use another oil feed as suggested by Spoolin I believe. They are just wondering how they (UR) tapped the sandwich plate, or if they should just purchase a new sandwich plate.
Originally Posted by EssTooKayTD,Jul 13 2005, 10:00 AM
The A/F ratios are just fine. Autologic was attempting to tune the car, but was unsuccessful. They are currently going to use another oil feed as suggested by Spoolin I believe. They are just wondering how they (UR) tapped the sandwich plate, or if they should just purchase a new sandwich plate.
Originally Posted by Spoolin,Jul 13 2005, 09:38 AM
I'll try and get you a picture of the sandwich adapter with the tapped oil feed for the turbo tonight. 

That would be grand. Thanks man!
Tom







