Finally got some issues worked out
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From: CaliFornicatin'
Chris suggested spraying some soapy water onto the couplers, and then rev the motor. If it's bubbling, then you'll know some intake charge is leaking. I guess it may not be readily apparent on a visual inspection. I mean, large tears or improperly mounted couplers will be quite obvious, but a small leak, maybe not so much. Looks like you're seeing a 70rwhp gain. I was hoping to see a full on 90-100rwhp gain, and similar in torque. Chris had mentioned that the stage 1 kits were dyno'ing anywhere from 250rwhp to 320rwhp, so there is a big gap there. A lot can be down to dyno type and even the dyno operator, plus calibration, not to mention the mods, temperature and elevation variations.
I was thinking of booking a couple hours on the dyno to do an NA pull and then back to back with the charger fitted. Would be a slight pain in the ass though, what with all the parts that need to be moved. Or maybe go the other way, as removing the charger is easier than lining everything up and putting it back together. Might be too much hassle though.
I was thinking of booking a couple hours on the dyno to do an NA pull and then back to back with the charger fitted. Would be a slight pain in the ass though, what with all the parts that need to be moved. Or maybe go the other way, as removing the charger is easier than lining everything up and putting it back together. Might be too much hassle though.
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From: CaliFornicatin'
Jack, saabateur, do you have an aftermarket exhaust?
I have the CT, and I'd bet that is contributing to my numbers, as it should be substantially increasing flow. My baseline was 191 bone stock on the same dyno and operator, so my gain is ~115, and I only expected ~90-100.
If we assume my exhaust added 15, that puts me down to 290, only 16 more than you. That could certainly be calibration or gearing differences or plenty of other things. In my experience, the gear selection played a big part for me. I think the dynapacks allow you to put in an overall ratio (5.50 in 4th on an AP1...1.16 4th * 1.16 primary reduction * 4.10 = 5.5). I really don't know much about how gearing is set or affects a dyno reading, but in my experience, 4th produced higher numbers than 3rd. You have 16% shorter gearing than me, and I'd imagine that HAS to affect something. My dyno operator said to select the gear closest to 1.0, but no way am I doing a 5th gear run!
Also, I notice from your chart that you are dipping real close to 10:1 at about 8K. I had the same thing, and did about 1/5 of a turn on the FPR. That took me from 287 to 305. I had thought of loosening a little more to see if my dip was due to AFR, but I decided that what I had was safe, and I didn't need to get greedy.
I have the CT, and I'd bet that is contributing to my numbers, as it should be substantially increasing flow. My baseline was 191 bone stock on the same dyno and operator, so my gain is ~115, and I only expected ~90-100.
If we assume my exhaust added 15, that puts me down to 290, only 16 more than you. That could certainly be calibration or gearing differences or plenty of other things. In my experience, the gear selection played a big part for me. I think the dynapacks allow you to put in an overall ratio (5.50 in 4th on an AP1...1.16 4th * 1.16 primary reduction * 4.10 = 5.5). I really don't know much about how gearing is set or affects a dyno reading, but in my experience, 4th produced higher numbers than 3rd. You have 16% shorter gearing than me, and I'd imagine that HAS to affect something. My dyno operator said to select the gear closest to 1.0, but no way am I doing a 5th gear run!
Also, I notice from your chart that you are dipping real close to 10:1 at about 8K. I had the same thing, and did about 1/5 of a turn on the FPR. That took me from 287 to 305. I had thought of loosening a little more to see if my dip was due to AFR, but I decided that what I had was safe, and I didn't need to get greedy.
so since i have 4.77s, i guess i should try a 5th gear pull for shits and giggles?
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Vienna, VA
worth a shot, certainly. That takes the car a little too fast on a dyno for me, but saabateur has done it. I'd definitely seek a 2nd opinion on that!
I think it may be worth talking to the operator about what kinds of settings go into that dyno type. I know very little about that, too. I do believe that overall ratio is a setting for dynapacks though.
I think when I had a 3rd gear pull done it was around 260-270, though i can't remember the exact figure as I paid it little attention. I knew it would read lower in 3rd...I did that pull to make sure the midrange AFR spike wasn't too much as the RPM window is a shorter time duration in 3rd than 4th. In 2nd it was only a little over 200 (did that pull to verify the fuel pressure was rising quick enough...it was a little slow so I'm going to try boosting the power/current to the pump).
As to checking for leaks...I think the problem area would be the aftercooler-throttle body as that's such a pain to get mounted. I highly suggest some silicone lubricant...it makes installing the aftercooler SOOOOO easy.
Another thing...check behind the aftercooler. If pushed back too far, it can strike one of the alternator bolts which could dent or poke a small hole in the aftercooler. Mine has a small dent, but I verified (using a 1" square of duct tape, lol) that it wasn't losing boost through it, and it wasn't leaking coolant, either. Be REAL careful putting that aftercooler back on with the lubricant as it will slide right onto the throttle body with little effort...I gave it a big push and struck that bolt.
Also, check all 6 volute bolts, too, and ensure the 3 brackets are on it. The bottom bolts are a PITA to reach, though. They're all hex bolts, too. Boost could be leaking a little through the volute-compressor housing junction, esp if the installer didn't tighten them all as that process is at the very end after the final geometry is determined (not saying it was you if you installed it
).
I think it may be worth talking to the operator about what kinds of settings go into that dyno type. I know very little about that, too. I do believe that overall ratio is a setting for dynapacks though.
I think when I had a 3rd gear pull done it was around 260-270, though i can't remember the exact figure as I paid it little attention. I knew it would read lower in 3rd...I did that pull to make sure the midrange AFR spike wasn't too much as the RPM window is a shorter time duration in 3rd than 4th. In 2nd it was only a little over 200 (did that pull to verify the fuel pressure was rising quick enough...it was a little slow so I'm going to try boosting the power/current to the pump).
As to checking for leaks...I think the problem area would be the aftercooler-throttle body as that's such a pain to get mounted. I highly suggest some silicone lubricant...it makes installing the aftercooler SOOOOO easy.
Another thing...check behind the aftercooler. If pushed back too far, it can strike one of the alternator bolts which could dent or poke a small hole in the aftercooler. Mine has a small dent, but I verified (using a 1" square of duct tape, lol) that it wasn't losing boost through it, and it wasn't leaking coolant, either. Be REAL careful putting that aftercooler back on with the lubricant as it will slide right onto the throttle body with little effort...I gave it a big push and struck that bolt.
Also, check all 6 volute bolts, too, and ensure the 3 brackets are on it. The bottom bolts are a PITA to reach, though. They're all hex bolts, too. Boost could be leaking a little through the volute-compressor housing junction, esp if the installer didn't tighten them all as that process is at the very end after the final geometry is determined (not saying it was you if you installed it
).
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: CaliFornicatin'
worth a shot, certainly. That takes the car a little too fast on a dyno for me, but saabateur has done it. I'd definitely seek a 2nd opinion on that!
I think it may be worth talking to the operator about what kinds of settings go into that dyno type. I know very little about that, too. I do believe that overall ratio is a setting for dynapacks though.
I think when I had a 3rd gear pull done it was around 260-270, though i can't remember the exact figure as I paid it little attention. I knew it would read lower in 3rd...I did that pull to make sure the midrange AFR spike wasn't too much as the RPM window is a shorter time duration in 3rd than 4th. In 2nd it was only a little over 200 (did that pull to verify the fuel pressure was rising quick enough...it was a little slow so I'm going to try boosting the power/current to the pump).
As to checking for leaks...I think the problem area would be the aftercooler-throttle body as that's such a pain to get mounted. I highly suggest some silicone lubricant...it makes installing the aftercooler SOOOOO easy.
Another thing...check behind the aftercooler. If pushed back too far, it can strike one of the alternator bolts which could dent or poke a small hole in the aftercooler. Mine has a small dent, but I verified (using a 1" square of duct tape, lol) that it wasn't losing boost through it, and it wasn't leaking coolant, either. Be REAL careful putting that aftercooler back on with the lubricant as it will slide right onto the throttle body with little effort...I gave it a big push and struck that bolt.
Also, check all 6 volute bolts, too, and ensure the 3 brackets are on it. The bottom bolts are a PITA to reach, though. They're all hex bolts, too. Boost could be leaking a little through the volute-compressor housing junction, esp if the installer didn't tighten them all as that process is at the very end after the final geometry is determined (not saying it was you if you installed it ).
I think it may be worth talking to the operator about what kinds of settings go into that dyno type. I know very little about that, too. I do believe that overall ratio is a setting for dynapacks though.
I think when I had a 3rd gear pull done it was around 260-270, though i can't remember the exact figure as I paid it little attention. I knew it would read lower in 3rd...I did that pull to make sure the midrange AFR spike wasn't too much as the RPM window is a shorter time duration in 3rd than 4th. In 2nd it was only a little over 200 (did that pull to verify the fuel pressure was rising quick enough...it was a little slow so I'm going to try boosting the power/current to the pump).
As to checking for leaks...I think the problem area would be the aftercooler-throttle body as that's such a pain to get mounted. I highly suggest some silicone lubricant...it makes installing the aftercooler SOOOOO easy.
Another thing...check behind the aftercooler. If pushed back too far, it can strike one of the alternator bolts which could dent or poke a small hole in the aftercooler. Mine has a small dent, but I verified (using a 1" square of duct tape, lol) that it wasn't losing boost through it, and it wasn't leaking coolant, either. Be REAL careful putting that aftercooler back on with the lubricant as it will slide right onto the throttle body with little effort...I gave it a big push and struck that bolt.
Also, check all 6 volute bolts, too, and ensure the 3 brackets are on it. The bottom bolts are a PITA to reach, though. They're all hex bolts, too. Boost could be leaking a little through the volute-compressor housing junction, esp if the installer didn't tighten them all as that process is at the very end after the final geometry is determined (not saying it was you if you installed it
).
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,044
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From: South Florida
There is nothing wrong with a 5th gear pull fellas. My car has had plenty of them 
.
Most dynes will read same or lower for third or 4th gear vs 5th. But it does allow the blower or turbo to load up properly and give u a good long pull to see what's going on with the tune.
. Most dynes will read same or lower for third or 4th gear vs 5th. But it does allow the blower or turbo to load up properly and give u a good long pull to see what's going on with the tune.
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 9,033
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From: South of the pier, Huntington Beach, CA
There are all kinds of reasons for boost leaks. Check this out:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/874...#entry20690838
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/874...#entry20690838
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I'm running an old Tanabe dual somethingortheother. I bought it a few years back, didn't do much research on it other than the fact that the Tanabe I had just before it was stupid loud, but I had driven a car with the same softer tone Tanabe, so I picked it up. And I have an Invidia straight pipe, if I remember right. All the stuff was bought second hand.
Last night and this morning I checked belt tension, sprayed down the couplers, intercooler (I still call it an intercooler from my turbo Saab days, 'A/C' just means air conditioning to me!) and the volute too. Nothing obvious. Maybe I'll try and grab a boost leak detector. Finding 1 psi of extra boost is going to be hard!
Question for you guys - what did your dyno operator do to get RPM readings? My guy had an inductive clamp that he put onto one of the wires to the coils.
I have PLX gauges, and was thinking I might splurge on one of the higher end models, or grab one of their dataloggers.
Last night and this morning I checked belt tension, sprayed down the couplers, intercooler (I still call it an intercooler from my turbo Saab days, 'A/C' just means air conditioning to me!) and the volute too. Nothing obvious. Maybe I'll try and grab a boost leak detector. Finding 1 psi of extra boost is going to be hard!
Question for you guys - what did your dyno operator do to get RPM readings? My guy had an inductive clamp that he put onto one of the wires to the coils.
I have PLX gauges, and was thinking I might splurge on one of the higher end models, or grab one of their dataloggers.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 1
From: Newcastle, WA
