Is FORCED INDUCTION right for me?
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From: Tx
Originally Posted by Spec_Ops2087,Jul 1 2007, 06:01 PM
correct, which is another reason why drag times are pointless...there are far to many factors to add into the equation.
I probably could hit 11's but again, I dont have a "need" inside me to complete blow my differential into a million little peices when I drop my clutch with 400+rwhp.
I probably could hit 11's but again, I dont have a "need" inside me to complete blow my differential into a million little peices when I drop my clutch with 400+rwhp.
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by yungjoc,Jul 1 2007, 09:20 PM
I'm sure you can make the same argument about autox. Did those two guys that pulled 11s break their differentials?
I'm still on a comptech reinforced diff which pretty much means nothing at this power level. Until I upgrade that, I'll stick to dyno numbers, hp vs weight numbers, and prior races for comparison
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by Kondor999,Jun 30 2007, 08:30 PM
Where exactly do you live? I'm in po-dunk Wichita Falls and managed to find an excellent tuner in Rowlett (suburb of Dallas). Perhaps I can point you his way.
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From: Tx
Originally Posted by ENTHRALLED,Jul 1 2007, 09:50 PM
it seems to be correct.
READING is not right for you.
Have a nice day.
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From: Martinsburg WV
I think you should sum it up like this....
Go with the SC if:
1) Your not worried about more low end power..make max power at redline
2) Make your top end even more crazy
3) Bolt on and go setup (still may need to check the AF ratio)
4) Lower overall costs (no tuning needed)
Go with the Turbo if:
1) You looking for (alot) more torque down low (full boost a 3.5-4k rpms!)
2) Have a good( great tuner ) and have the extra money to get it tuned properly. The kit may say "Bolt on" but it if you dont get it tuned right...you will be bolting it right back off...lol
3) A lilttle more maintenance but you DO want to be proactive vs reactive to problems.
Both setups can be reliable but if your looking for the best setup for a "drag" type of situation the turbo gets the nod hands down. From a stop the turbo car is going to run away from the SC one. Theres just alot more down low power that comes on too fast for the SC. From a roll the SC can get into its sweet spot (near/in vtec) so it will be more of a race but the SC has to be "ready".
Just my 2 cents....Good luck!
Go with the SC if:
1) Your not worried about more low end power..make max power at redline
2) Make your top end even more crazy
3) Bolt on and go setup (still may need to check the AF ratio)
4) Lower overall costs (no tuning needed)
Go with the Turbo if:
1) You looking for (alot) more torque down low (full boost a 3.5-4k rpms!)
2) Have a good( great tuner ) and have the extra money to get it tuned properly. The kit may say "Bolt on" but it if you dont get it tuned right...you will be bolting it right back off...lol
3) A lilttle more maintenance but you DO want to be proactive vs reactive to problems.
Both setups can be reliable but if your looking for the best setup for a "drag" type of situation the turbo gets the nod hands down. From a stop the turbo car is going to run away from the SC one. Theres just alot more down low power that comes on too fast for the SC. From a roll the SC can get into its sweet spot (near/in vtec) so it will be more of a race but the SC has to be "ready".
Just my 2 cents....Good luck!
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From: Martinsburg WV
Originally Posted by afwfjustin,Jul 1 2007, 12:22 AM
I said FI sk2 mainly just to include everyone here. A SC s2k and M3 would be close though. However, a turbo S vs. M3 "in a straight line" wouldn't even be a race.
The S would look like it was shot out of a cannon... 
