Another topic I have been thinking about lately is traction and how it can be improved. We could start a thread here about street/track setups and how effective or uneffective they are.

Current-
P-Tuning AP1 3076 .82
375whp Est.
Megan Track Almost full hard
17x9.5 +38 RPF1
Ventus RS-3 255/40/17 rubber in 95% condition
32psi Tire pressure

What I have noticed with this setup on the street is handling and response is excellent. Seems very durable and versitile... really dont have to many complaints. Main issue is wheelhop... being 20-30mph and even going half to 3/4 throttle just shreds tire and goes into a violent wheel hop. Shift to second and get a few more shakes and most of the time it will catch in mid to high rpm range of 2nd gear. Since im just on my base tune and will be going up quite a bit to the 500++ whp level Im looking to see what I can do to improve my traction on the street. Diff mounts, psi, different tires, drag radials, boost by gear? I have never been to the track but will be doing test and tune track days this year so would like something I can drive to the track... go run a low 11/high 10 eventually... and drive home. I have been thinking about M/T ET street but would it be ok to get them in the current same size as my RS-3 or should I just get a 16" set to put on my stock AP1 wheels. Any other ideas gentlemen??

 

BOOST BY SPEED my friend. boost by speed. will fix all your issues. those are decent tires, next step up is DR or r comps. just set up boost by speed. you will be fine.

 

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/912...age__hl__tires

 

Cool thanks. Is it a pain to set up on AEM V2 EMS or is it fairly simple for a aem tuner to do?? I was thinking about selling the RS-3 I have now and putting 17" MT E/T streets on. No point??? Will the diff mount help with wheel hop...

One thing I was thinking is traction bars... does anyone use traction bars on our cars in drag setups. Alot of other IRS rwd cars do... so why not us

 

an aem tuner will know exactly how to do it. i had someone talk me through it then i spent an hour outside messing with it. its not rocket science.

do you have a mac boost solenoid? you need to control boost through the aem to do it. dont sell the tires yet.

 

Is there a torsion bar on the rear?

 

an aem tuner will know exactly how to do it. i had someone talk me through it then i spent an hour outside messing with it. its not rocket science.

do you have a mac boost solenoid? you need to control boost through the aem to do it. dont sell the tires yet.
[/quote]

Okay cool! And yeah my buddy/tuner whos a nissan guy(tuned his own 310 and 330 fwhp SR20 stroker 10 second nissan sentras ALL MOTOR! Both are 2.3 liter with ITB`s the 310 hp is 13.5 comp and the 330whp is 14.1 comp) works as the tuner for high end gt-r shop weapons grade performance in wallingford, ct. So after we set timing and started working out the base map we he couldnt get the MAC solenoid to turn on... something about the AEM was only preset for the AEM boost solenoids parameters(not knowing at the time aem and mac are the same) so we ended up putting a MBC on the car and doing the base map/stock exhaust to 11psi or so. And my buddy gave me a AEM solenoid so I have the 2 Boost Solenoids now so yeah def going to control boost through those. Im just trying to finish my wiring issues before I reinstall my guages, solenoid, redo vacuum lines, and hook it all into the ems. Im just super anal about stuff so want it done perfect.

 

now how is speed based and boost by gear setup different??? what is better???

 

http://www.evans-tuning.com/tech-com...st-controllers

Read the gear based and the speed based boost control methods.

Low hp where wheel spin is not a problem use speed based
Gear based when tire spin/traction is a problem

 

I guess it's different for turbo cars... My SOS SC @ 421whp never once chirped the tires. I could stomp it from a roll in any gear and it would just take off. I'm running Comptech lowering springs, Koni yellows, aftermarket upper / lower front & rear strut braces, and OZ Ultraleggera's with 265/18 Yokohama S. Drive's. Sticks like glue...

By contrast, my stock 405hp (crank) '02 Z06 Vette will break loose in 1st, 2nd or 3rd once it comes up on cam. It's running 285's but the shocks are shot, so my guess is that the Koni's were doing a lot to keep my S under control. That, and the SC boost doesn't all hit at once like a turbo does.

The other day, I had the Z06 wide open in 3rd merging onto the highway. It was fine until it got close to 5k rpm and then - BAM - broke loose, completely lost traction. The stability control / traction control intervened, and kept me from going into a concrete wall... Makes me really miss the way my S2000 handled the power - that sort of thing never happened, and I never felt I needed the electronic nannies. I bought the Vette because it's easy to hit 450whp with NA bolt-ons, but I never anticipated having trouble putting that power down. That was a pretty freaky experience...