New headbolts sretch and are supposed to be retorqued after one heat cycle. Which I feel is absolutely stupid to go through all of that labor and time to warm the car up for 5 minutes and then disassemble it all to retorque.

But that is what is supposed to be done.
I reused my original bolts which were already stretched to the max.

 

Re-torque is not require after heat cycle with stock head bolts, new or re-use.

I found best lube to go with is ARP Molylube, even with stock head bolts.

 

I have 450whp on my GT3076R and love it. I can easily hit over 500whp with a race gas tune on this setup; I just never run race gas b/c its a pita to order and expensive as hell. Do I want more? eh, I could if I wanted to, but I rarely use all 450whp and 330wtq around town, so I sure as hell don't need it. I'm content with 450whp. 600whp for a street s2k is just stupid imo.

 

I figured tha is what happened. but was told it was uneccessary

 

Headgasket if you're on a budget.

I've never had to retorque head bolts/studs after a heat cycle, not necessary if done right the first time. Never have had a problem. I mean dealerships don't do that on brand new cars...

 

after seeing what can be done on a stock block no 3mm hg, 400whp, why worry building the block for 450whp? with a hg 3mm, you lower the compression to something in the low 9.X:1. as long as its assembled properly and tuned well you'll be fine. now, if you want 500whp+, then your in the game for the long haul, building the block is just one of the many expensive things you will be buying

 

b/c 400whp isn't enough, 450whp is better. oh noes, not 9:1 compression, god forbid you make more power on a lower compression with a TURBO of all things.

 

That sounds like an install problem and/or bad tune that would have caused that.

 

Ok, maybe a bad tune then.

I had a professional torque the head for me but I went with ARP headstuds and haven't had one problem. I'd say it stretched the headbolts and the heat warped it. I would never recommend using headbolts unless you plan on staying under 15 psi. They are a stretch to seat type of retainer unlike a headstud.

 

i think i didnt explain what i meant well enough. i reread it and it is confusing.

400whp = no headgasket with good tune
450-500whp = hg 3mm and good tune. <i like lowering the compression, if its needed>
500whp++ = build the biatch for longevity.

this is just my opinions.


i built my h22 with 9:1, i would have gone wiseco 8.5:1 if they were in stock. i love lower compression, leaves the window for fubar larger, though i still found that ****in window twice they say if your breaking stuff your going fast....but still was pain in the ass. two huge thumbs down for fmu/msd boostretard/vafc tuning. i wish i had bought an aem from the start. when i boost this car, aem with built in wideband all the way.

not too mention a full point of compression is like sacraficing 10whpish. big deal, turn the boost up to compensate.