I have a KW kit with C38-91 blower and the standard KW pulleys on my stock '06 AP2. When I got it tuned, it made 12.5 psi of boost at 8200 rpm. Others with this set up report 15+ psi.

I rigged up a boost testing system and found a couple of leaks. The KW kit comes with worm drive clamps so I bought a T-clamp for the worst leak (the coupler to the intake manifold). With the T-clamp the leak was worse - the coupler bunched up between the T's. I have tightened the worm drive clamps that leaked (not all did) until I am afraid of stripping them but still have some leaking.

How do you guys (especially the guys running higher pressures) seal the couplers - especially the intake manifold coupler?

 

I use T-clamps for every coupler.

 

Another member on here said something about using hair spray on the openings of the silicone hoses, apparently works quite well

 

the coupler that goes on the throttle body is the wrong size. Kw ships a straight 3" coupler, but you need a 3-2.75" reducer instead. Siliconeintakes.com

Also use t bolt clamps everywhere. I have a thread on which sizes are needed here in the fi forum. On my phone, so hard to find and link it.

 

This is straight from Habitforming's thread:

T Bolt Clamps

These are the clamps I used and their sources. Note that you won't be able to get a T bolt clamp for the air filter, as the clamping surface on it is too narrow - not a problem since it doesn't see boost. I also had to use a worm screw clamp for the valve cover vent hose attachment to the intake elbow. Again the landing was too narrow for the T bolt style that I bought.

Siliconeintakes.com
3.0" x 6 (intake elbow x2, intercooler x2, 3rd charge pipe x2)
2.75" x 1 (throttle body)
2.5" x 5 (Rotrex x1, 1st charge pipe x2, 2nd charge pipe x2)
Silicone reducer, 3.0" to 2.75" (3rd charge pipe to throttle body)

McMaster.com
1 7/32 to 1 5/16" x 4 (hoses for bypass valve), part # 5462K48
1 5/16 to 1 7/16" x 1 (bottom of intake elbow where bypass valve hose attaches), part # 5462K49

Hope this helps some of you

 

yeah what he said (that I said)

 

Good clamps here...I use these on my setup. All stainless steel.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261479992740

 

When I tried both a worm clamp and a T-clamp on the same joint, I found that the worm clamp leaked less. I was surprised at this given what I read on this forum. But the test data was the test data. When I examined what was happening, I found that the T-clamps clamp well from one T around to the other T but leave a clamping gap for the short distance between the Ts. This is where it was leaking. The worm clamps clamp all the way around.

I have ordered a 3"-2.75" reducer to see if that helps at the intake manifold.