please dont tq....hand tighten them. deception is also right, you wont be able to get the manifold back in with those three studs in place, id leave them out and get it mounted in there first.

 

Bring this back from the dead.

So I am going to order ARP part # 400-8012 00-09 Honda S2000 ARP Exhaust Manifold Studs (w/nuts I think?)

Reading this thread there seems to be some conflicting views. So my questions are:

Do I just hand tighten the studs into the block? OR Should I torque them down?

If I need to torque them down, how many Ft-Lbs should I torque them down to?

Do I need to use moly lube on the threads before I install them into the head?

Thanks

 

HAND TIGHTEN!!!!!

Studs should never be torqued in, that goes against the entire way they work!

Use assembly lube as it has powdered aluminum which won't break down the way lubes will under heat, it'll allow for removal later if needed and also allow for easier threading in. If the threads are dirty you should clean them but if you're lazy you can lock two nuts together on the studs to thread them in but DO NOT TORQUE THEM!



-Greg

 

Here's where I ordered mine from:

DMP Fasteners

I first ordered the 1.5" length, but they are NOT long enough to fit a washer and nut (over top of my Full-Race Manifold) so I had to order another set (1.75" long).

Here's my setup:

ARP exhaust studs
Nord-Lock washers
Brand new OEM nuts

I put a tap into all the threaded holes in the head before I installed the studs (just to clean them up a bit). I threaded the studs in and tightened them with an allen wrench (no lube or anything like that).

No issues so far.

Scott-

 

Just do it THIS way. You can do it a million ways incorrectly that might survive but this would be PROPER. A stud that is torqued just puts stress on the threads and pre-loads em, it is completely back-asswards. Just like head studs, hand tighten them. ARP will tell you this same thing, give em a call if you wish.