Hydrolock
Originally Posted by jzz30,Oct 19 2010, 01:08 AM
you may find that after you get your car started and the car warms up you will get rod knock. ask me how i know this 

I highly doubt the starter could bend a rod during hydrolock. The main thing im wourried about is the rod bearing. I mean the starter is only cranking at what maybe 300 rpm right?
I know I'll definately have to change my oil, and buy a new injector. What's the chances of my bearing being bad though? I really didn't want to build the motor until next year.
no same thing but well with an sr20. did the swap and everything and upgraded the injectors. the injectors being side feed, you really cant tell if they leak until its too late. so its good practice to do this with the plugs out. anyway the o-ring tore, and went to crank it and it cranked for half a sec and stopped. we pulled the plugs, and same as you the fuel shot up like 20 feet.
anway we cleared it up, changed the o-ring, and fired it up. as the car warmed up a knocking noise became more and more audible. and well we had to pull it appart and turns out the starter is strong enough to smash the rod bearing.
so you may want to at least drop the pan and check it out. not to say it definitely happened to you but you never know.
anway we cleared it up, changed the o-ring, and fired it up. as the car warmed up a knocking noise became more and more audible. and well we had to pull it appart and turns out the starter is strong enough to smash the rod bearing.
so you may want to at least drop the pan and check it out. not to say it definitely happened to you but you never know.
Originally Posted by jzz30,Oct 20 2010, 05:04 AM
no same thing but well with an sr20. did the swap and everything and upgraded the injectors. the injectors being side feed, you really cant tell if they leak until its too late. so its good practice to do this with the plugs out. anyway the o-ring tore, and went to crank it and it cranked for half a sec and stopped. we pulled the plugs, and same as you the fuel shot up like 20 feet.
anway we cleared it up, changed the o-ring, and fired it up. as the car warmed up a knocking noise became more and more audible. and well we had to pull it appart and turns out the starter is strong enough to smash the rod bearing.
so you may want to at least drop the pan and check it out. not to say it definitely happened to you but you never know.
anway we cleared it up, changed the o-ring, and fired it up. as the car warmed up a knocking noise became more and more audible. and well we had to pull it appart and turns out the starter is strong enough to smash the rod bearing.
so you may want to at least drop the pan and check it out. not to say it definitely happened to you but you never know.

If I drop the pan (which I really dont want to do, just put it on...), how will I be able to tell of any damage? There is an oil baffle plate that covers the bearing caps, and the caps themselves will cover the bearing.
Talk about sh!tty luck
Just dry out that cylinder, change your oil, pressurize the system and fire it back up.
I highly doubt that would damage the engine, I hydrolock my jet ski all the time and its still going strong.
The bearings in the bottom end are a journal type so what is there to see? And if you were planning on checking the small end of the rod good luck seeing much through the oil pan.
Quit scaring the crap out of this guy! Fix the injector, do what I said, and go from there
I highly doubt that would damage the engine, I hydrolock my jet ski all the time and its still going strong.
The bearings in the bottom end are a journal type so what is there to see? And if you were planning on checking the small end of the rod good luck seeing much through the oil pan.
Quit scaring the crap out of this guy! Fix the injector, do what I said, and go from there
make sure to put some oil down the spark plug holes and turn it over by hand a few times.
gas will wash teh oil off the cylinder walls, you'll end up with a scuffed piston very quickly.
I doubt the bearings suffered any damage. The start doesnt really have enough power to mess things up in that situation.
also, there is no need to keep cranking the engine to build pressure like that.
If you must, unplug the cam sensors and the crank sensor, crank it w/the spark plug out for about 30 sec, then fire it up.
when the ecu does not see rpms (cam and crank sensors unplugged) it wont spray fuel.
Also, rc750s are TRASH get rid of them asap.
gas will wash teh oil off the cylinder walls, you'll end up with a scuffed piston very quickly.
I doubt the bearings suffered any damage. The start doesnt really have enough power to mess things up in that situation.
also, there is no need to keep cranking the engine to build pressure like that.
If you must, unplug the cam sensors and the crank sensor, crank it w/the spark plug out for about 30 sec, then fire it up.
when the ecu does not see rpms (cam and crank sensors unplugged) it wont spray fuel.
Also, rc750s are TRASH get rid of them asap.
Originally Posted by wadzii,Oct 20 2010, 02:31 PM
make sure to put some oil down the spark plug holes and turn it over by hand a few times.
gas will wash teh oil off the cylinder walls, you'll end up with a scuffed piston very quickly.
I doubt the bearings suffered any damage. The start doesnt really have enough power to mess things up in that situation.
also, there is no need to keep cranking the engine to build pressure like that.
If you must, unplug the cam sensors and the crank sensor, crank it w/the spark plug out for about 30 sec, then fire it up.
when the ecu does not see rpms (cam and crank sensors unplugged) it wont spray fuel.
Also, rc750s are TRASH get rid of them asap.
gas will wash teh oil off the cylinder walls, you'll end up with a scuffed piston very quickly.
I doubt the bearings suffered any damage. The start doesnt really have enough power to mess things up in that situation.
also, there is no need to keep cranking the engine to build pressure like that.
If you must, unplug the cam sensors and the crank sensor, crank it w/the spark plug out for about 30 sec, then fire it up.
when the ecu does not see rpms (cam and crank sensors unplugged) it wont spray fuel.
Also, rc750s are TRASH get rid of them asap.
The main reason I was cranking it was to make sure that the oil feed to the turbo was full and so it wouldn't have a dry start spinning fast.
Good idea about the sensors, that will save me from having to pull fuses.
I read that it was really only the old version of the rc750s that were bad. The old model is SL4-750 and the new is SH4-750 (which i have). Mine was definately bad though. With it off the car, I could blow into it and air would come out the other side no problem.
I don't think this was faulty though. My friend reminded me that when i was installing them, i did slightly 'drop' one of them. It slipped out of my hand at the fuel rail and bounced down to the dungeon underneath the intake manifold. (good thing it was magnetic). anyways, im guessing it was that injector that broke. I didn't think at the time that it would matter (it was barely a drop) but i guess the impact shock probably did its work.
Anyways, thanks a ton to everybody who posted and helped; I'll post bad as soon as i can get this damn emanage to come online with my laptop
turbo installs....
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