S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

I need cooling tips and tricks

Thread Tools
 
Old Jun 30, 2009 | 09:42 AM
  #21  
siadam's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 1
From: Around
Default

Double check your AEM config for the coolant temps, sounds like you are about 15 degrees off which is what I was reading until I recal'd the setup.

Reply
Old Jun 30, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #22  
YuriArts's Avatar
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 666
Likes: 2
From: Holland
Default

Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jun 30 2009, 03:16 PM
That seems a bit high to me. You should be idling at 14.7ish. If you are higher in the RPM's, but not much load (i.e.-no boost) I would expect it to be 13.5ish, tops, during high speed cruising. The higher it goes, the hotter the manifold gets. The manifold gets hot at 14.7 at idle... Imagine if it were at the same AFR, but at like 5000-7000RPM...

Also, the forward weather stripping between the hood and the bumper can also be removed. The pan-head bolts will need to be replaced with more generic ones, so there is not the gap between the bolt head and the bumper once the stripping is removed.

V-Mount is where you mount your IC slanted forward from the cross beam to the top of where the OEM radiator is located, and the radiator slanted back toward the same brace... Effectively creating a ">" formation. You would need all new IC pipes and new mounting brackets for the radiator/intercooler.

The thing is, you should not be running this hot with the cooling mods you already have...

Are your coolant tables properly calibrated (assuming you are using AEM)? They are incorrect from the factory and read about 15* hot.

John
I'll have to check the A/F next run more carefully. Most of the time I was checking temps and pressure, only occasionally if the A/F wasn't abnormal/dangerous.
So let me get back on that.

I can remove the forward weather stripping, good idea. I've already got the passwordjdm bolts so that's no problem.

I'll also check the AEM to see what it's doing. I'll have to wait for my friend to get back from Holidays so he can write down the A/F and check the AEM on a laptop while doing the run.
I can't do it with anyone else because most shit there pants

@siadam: roger, going to do that. Didn't know AEM was off that much. Is it better to get a seperate gauge?

@dsddcd:

@Soul Coughing: i'll relocate the oil cooler to the side pod so it's not in front of the radiator anymore... that should help.
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2009 | 12:36 PM
  #23  
psychoazn's Avatar
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,223
Likes: 4
From: Orange County, CA
Default

Originally Posted by Soul Coughing,Jun 30 2009, 06:30 AM
All these people are saying that you shouldn't be having overheating problems at 130+mph, but how many of these guys in the US have done sustained driving for that long, at that speed. I know i haven't, and i've done alot of driving with my turbo DD over the past 55k miles.

Drag is squared, so the amount of energy needed to keep 130mph is much greater than 100. I would look into relocating your oil cooler, possibly to in front of the intercooler, or maybe on the side. I would talk to some of the track guys that had gone turbo. They are the ones who have really pushed the cooling aspect of the turbo setup, considering they are WOT for 20-30 minutes at a time. Blacktraxx and a few others that i can't think of off the top of my head.
I've done it long enough to be hitting the limiter....

However, I was way too busy focusing on the road in front of me to be watching my temp gauge...

I'll definately be watching that the next time I run into that situation.
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2009 | 12:41 PM
  #24  
JoeyBalls's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,570
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
Default

Why not use straight WATER INJECTION, under boost it will cool things down A LOT, CHT's & EGTS........................

No tuning necessary
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2009 | 03:21 PM
  #25  
jwa4378's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,331
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee, FL
Default

Soul Coughing - What is the difference of running 130mph sustained, and say.... 50 sustained in second gear? Other than airflow... Same RPMs, similar load (if anything it is a lighter load at lower speeds, so a leaner AFR and hotter EGTs). He is not at WOT when going a "sustained" 130mph, and is at such light throttle he is not seeing much, if any, boost.

When I was troubleshooting my car after it was repaired. I would regularly run it at low speeds around my neighborhood, keeping the RPM's up with a lower gear (~20-25mph in 1st for about 15 minutes, just cruising). Trying to overheat it (I had overheating issues) by stressing the system. I never saw anything higher than 198* on coolant, and I have almost identical cooling mods, but with the OEM oil cooler... He is seeing coolant temps of 212ish... I do not have an oil temp gauge/sensor, but my pressure is fine and the lack of high coolant temps makes me think its fine. Also, no sign of cooking the oil on the dipstick.

Yuri - The correct coolant table calibrations are in this forum somewhere... As well as AEMPower.com. Call your tuner and see if he updated that table at all.

Hope this helps!

John
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2009 | 01:14 PM
  #26  
YuriArts's Avatar
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 666
Likes: 2
From: Holland
Default

Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jul 1 2009, 12:21 AM
Soul Coughing - What is the difference of running 130mph sustained, and say.... 50 sustained in second gear? Other than airflow... Same RPMs, similar load (if anything it is a lighter load at lower speeds, so a leaner AFR and hotter EGTs). He is not at WOT when going a "sustained" 130mph, and is at such light throttle he is not seeing much, if any, boost.

When I was troubleshooting my car after it was repaired. I would regularly run it at low speeds around my neighborhood, keeping the RPM's up with a lower gear (~20-25mph in 1st for about 15 minutes, just cruising). Trying to overheat it (I had overheating issues) by stressing the system. I never saw anything higher than 198* on coolant, and I have almost identical cooling mods, but with the OEM oil cooler... He is seeing coolant temps of 212ish... I do not have an oil temp gauge/sensor, but my pressure is fine and the lack of high coolant temps makes me think its fine. Also, no sign of cooking the oil on the dipstick.

Yuri - The correct coolant table calibrations are in this forum somewhere... As well as AEMPower.com. Call your tuner and see if he updated that table at all.

Hope this helps!

John
thanks John, I'll be sure to check out the AEM.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2009 | 01:35 PM
  #27  
S2Kage's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,939
Likes: 1
From: Philadelphia, PA
Default

If your under boost for long periods of time then your going to see extreme heat.

Heat wrap, vent the hood, bigger oil cooler, FAL fans... IMHO

Im not a fan of additives but ive heard good things about red line water wetter, add to your anti freeze.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2009 | 01:58 PM
  #28  
Spec_Ops2087's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,301
Likes: 18
From: New Jersey
Default

Originally Posted by dsddcd,Jun 30 2009, 11:00 AM
My guess is they did not optimize it for those speeds, the velocity may be getting to high causing poor heat transfer.
I can't say that I've ever heard of a radiator loosing cooling efficiency with MORE airflow


I think it's more proper to assume the cooling system wasn't designed to handle a turbocharged motor. There are a few N/A s2ks that go on the autobahn without any overheating issues. When you add a turbocharger that gets to 1000-1500F that is either cooled via water or oil, that's a LOT of extra stress.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #29  
Spec_Ops2087's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,301
Likes: 18
From: New Jersey
Default

My suggestion is if all else fails, richen up the mixture from 6k rpms+ for light load / cruising conditions.

14.7 at 8k rpms and that amount of load from going so fast is going to make the car run hot. By throwing more fuel into it, surprisingly, it'll act as coolant and lower your EGTs which might lower your oil / water temps.

If you don't have it already, get an oil cooler and put it in a optimal spot.
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 08:43 AM
  #30  
Soul Coughing's Avatar
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 13,494
Likes: 71
From: Chiswick
Default

Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jun 30 2009, 06:21 PM
Soul Coughing - What is the difference of running 130mph sustained, and say.... 50 sustained in second gear? Other than airflow... Same RPMs, similar load (if anything it is a lighter load at lower speeds, so a leaner AFR and hotter EGTs). He is not at WOT when going a "sustained" 130mph, and is at such light throttle he is not seeing much, if any, boost.

When I was troubleshooting my car after it was repaired. I would regularly run it at low speeds around my neighborhood, keeping the RPM's up with a lower gear (~20-25mph in 1st for about 15 minutes, just cruising). Trying to overheat it (I had overheating issues) by stressing the system. I never saw anything higher than 198* on coolant, and I have almost identical cooling mods, but with the OEM oil cooler... He is seeing coolant temps of 212ish... I do not have an oil temp gauge/sensor, but my pressure is fine and the lack of high coolant temps makes me think its fine. Also, no sign of cooking the oil on the dipstick.

Yuri - The correct coolant table calibrations are in this forum somewhere... As well as AEMPower.com. Call your tuner and see if he updated that table at all.

Hope this helps!

John
Well the difference between 50 and 130 is that you can't be in 2nd gear... all joking aside, if you've ever done sustained 130-170mph pulls, you are in boost and WOT for much longer, than say 50-110mph. The increase in drag (its squared which means that it increases at an exponential rate) and gearing you see at higher speeds means that acceleration decreases. So it takes longer for you to get from 130-170ish than it would for you to increase the same amount of speed at a lower speed. This means that the time you are WOT is much longer, which increases the thermal load on the cooling system.

Even when you aren't fully WOT, at 130, the increased drag (especially with our non slippery car) is much greater than when you are at 50mph. This means you need to use more energy (much higher loads and subsequently increasing the throttle %) to keep that sustained speed. That energy needs to be dissipated somehow, and with our water cooled engines, its through the cooling system. I don't recommend you try going 130 (can't be held accountable for tickets and going that fast illegaly) but if you do, you'll see exactly what i mean. There are MUCH higher loads on the car at that speed than at lower speeds.
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:18 AM.