S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

I need cooling tips and tricks

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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 08:51 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Soul Coughing,Jul 2 2009, 12:43 PM
Well the difference between 50 and 130 is that you can't be in 2nd gear... all joking aside, if you've ever done sustained 130-170mph pulls, you are in boost and WOT for much longer, than say 50-110mph. The increase in drag (its squared which means that it increases at an exponential rate) and gearing you see at higher speeds means that acceleration decreases. So it takes longer for you to get from 130-170ish than it would for you to increase the same amount of speed at a lower speed. This means that the time you are WOT is much longer, which increases the thermal load on the cooling system.

Even when you aren't fully WOT, at 130, the increased drag (especially with our non slippery car) is much greater than when you are at 50mph. This means you need to use more energy (much higher loads and subsequently increasing the throttle %) to keep that sustained speed. That energy needs to be dissipated somehow, and with our water cooled engines, its through the cooling system. I don't recommend you try going 130 (can't be held accountable for tickets and going that fast illegaly) but if you do, you'll see exactly what i mean. There are MUCH higher loads on the car at that speed than at lower speeds.
x2.

cruise at 50 mph in 6th, look at what load you are at to sustain it, then cruise at 130 in 6th , and look at what load your at to sustain it.

i have noticed it just going from 60 cruising to 90 cruising in 6th. last, when around town at 50 mph my coolant temps never rise above 180, but on the highway at 85 constant speed, i see 185-186, more constant load to sustain that speed. i would assume that at 130 and above it just gets worse. on the dragon going on off throttle for 13 something miles, i was at 200 for the whole run. again nothing awful, but you see what working the motor does to the water temps.

water wetter is awesome, but works best with just water and water wetter. so if you live in a climate that never sees below 32 degrees F, do it. otherwise, your gona need coolant in the system to combat freezing.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:03 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by YuriArts,Jun 30 2009, 10:26 AM
@siadam: roger, going to do that. Didn't know AEM was off that much. Is it better to get a seperate gauge?
A separate gauge would be nice, to know exactly where you are running and not a range like your oem display shows, unless you are looking directly off the ems, then that will work too.

There is a thread in here that I posted that has the info that you need, very easy to fix/change.

I would do that FIRST before you start spending $$ on something you may not necessarily need b/c you don't know the accuracy of your readings.

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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 05:50 AM
  #33  
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From: Holland
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Update: I got a vented hood and all overheating problems are history.
I can pull from 200-285km/h all day long without the system overheating.

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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 02:22 PM
  #34  
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Thanks for the update. Interesting for the cooling issues you were having that venting the engine bay would greatly increase your cooling efficiency. Nice
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 02:55 PM
  #35  
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very nice...what hood is that?
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 12:17 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by legendman,Dec 8 2009, 12:55 AM
very nice...what hood is that?
It's a Top Secret hood.
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