I figure there are more people adjusting ems settings in here, so I will ask here.

As far as timing maps go, aem is a bit different than the hondata map. I don't know which more accurately represents factory timing, but I've been reading/leaning toward the hondata maps. Aem maps seem to be a bit retarded.

The biggest difference is the idle timing. Aem maps keep the timing around 4-8*, where hondata's map keep idle timing around 20-25*.



What is everyone running as far as idle timing? Right now I am running the aem's timing (aem v2) and it just seems pretty low. I have checked and synced timing with the crank pulley at ~5* (per the oem service manual, idle timing should be 5* +/- 2 BTDC).


I understand these are "basemaps", but the difference between basemaps is quite different (mainly at idle) and I was just seeing if anyone had some good info on this.

Thanks in advance.

 

Take a screenshot of your AEM v2 cal and I'll post mine up tomorrow, it's @ the office.

If you don't want to post max boost, just show the rpm and vac scaling.

 

Put a timing light on it. When its 5degrees on the crank, it should be 5 degrees in the software. You can sync the timing in AEM. Set it to 20 degrees in the software and it should read 20 on the crank. Factory is at 5 degrees on the timing light at idle for smog purposes.

 

Idle timing required will change based on the setup. There is also an idle ignition adjustment as well used to maintain a steady idle engine speed.

 

I realize that 5* on the crank should match 5* on the software. And I already have it matched/synced as I said in the earlier post.

This is my current map




And this is what I'm going to try when I get home from work.




I did try timing at idle around 20* last night, and it seemed to idle a little smoother. But when turning the ac/fans on, the motor will drop a decent amount of rpm, and will sometimes get close to stalling.

 

I also have the iac valve duty cycle to be already on the plus side (2-3%), as well as added timing (~10-12*) on the ignition / idle adjustment. I'm sure it will just take some trial and error on my part.

 

You'll need to adjust the battery compensation table. I forget where it was located.

 

Ran 5 degrees at idle for about a year with no issues. Was getting too much cabin rattle from the vibration. Now I'm at 20 degrees at idle and 1100 rpm. A lot less cabin rattle and when the spal fan kicks in no more ignition kills. I'm not too worry about meeting the ultra low emission values.

 

I have the battery offset tables set to the default settings for my injectors (id1000). I have not actually disconnected the alternator to tune the offset tae though. I will have to log the battery voltage to see if that is the actual issue.

 

Thread from an Evo forum http://forums.evolutionm.net/aem-ems...e-aem-ecu.html

This is how I have mine setup. Before my car would try to stall sometimes when the fans kicked on. This fixed it 100%