I'm serious about getting nitrous
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Originally Posted by S2oooNvegas,Oct 28 2007, 10:51 AM
the problem is, gears are only needed to try and make a slow car faster, so once you add power and torque, gears just cause wheelspin, and more shifts. then your maxed on mph before you can blink.
youll be shocked at how fast the gears go by with spray, even 4.10s. trade your 4.77'd pumpkin for a stock ap2 4.10, and add the delay valve. no harm no foul. do you have a clutch i hope? and run drag radials, stock tire will be lame.
nitrous use depends on if you have any leaks, how often you use it, jet sizes, etc etc. you shouldnt be using more than 1 lb per run. so id say you could get 7 runs out of a 10 lb bottle being safe. just as SC said. he gets a safe 6. they prob arent filling the bottle properly.
anyways.
have fun
youll be shocked at how fast the gears go by with spray, even 4.10s. trade your 4.77'd pumpkin for a stock ap2 4.10, and add the delay valve. no harm no foul. do you have a clutch i hope? and run drag radials, stock tire will be lame.
nitrous use depends on if you have any leaks, how often you use it, jet sizes, etc etc. you shouldnt be using more than 1 lb per run. so id say you could get 7 runs out of a 10 lb bottle being safe. just as SC said. he gets a safe 6. they prob arent filling the bottle properly.
anyways.
have fun
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From: Northern VA
I'm not going to get in to it but ZEX is rated much higher in how much power it says it makes then what it really produces. I wouldn't even look at a zex kit unless it was their direct port but even then I wouldn't consider putting it on anything.
Running a dry shot is stupid and pointless. period.
If you are going to run nitrous spend the extra money on a good direct port kit (NX) and HAVE IT PROPERLY TUNED!!! You dont just throw in jets and go...because your motor will soon follow. Also look in to all the safety accessories (window switches, tps switches, etc) and dont be mr. fast and furious with button activation and no window/tps switch.
Running a dry shot is stupid and pointless. period.
If you are going to run nitrous spend the extra money on a good direct port kit (NX) and HAVE IT PROPERLY TUNED!!! You dont just throw in jets and go...because your motor will soon follow. Also look in to all the safety accessories (window switches, tps switches, etc) and dont be mr. fast and furious with button activation and no window/tps switch.
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From: mo
Ok what you need to use nitrous safely.....
-The kit ofcourse(heard good things about zex and nx....only wet or direct port)
-A WOT swith
-A window switch
-An arming switch
-wideband o2 sensor
-something to tune with
-bottlewarmer
-blowdown tube(i think thats what its called)
-fuel pressure gauge
-n20 pressure gauge
To tune you CAN use a SAFCII, but there is no way to quickly or automaticly switch maps, so you would have to deal with it being slower at WOT without nitrous. I believe the emanage has an optional button you can use to switch maps.
-The kit ofcourse(heard good things about zex and nx....only wet or direct port)
-A WOT swith
-A window switch
-An arming switch
-wideband o2 sensor
-something to tune with
-bottlewarmer
-blowdown tube(i think thats what its called)
-fuel pressure gauge
-n20 pressure gauge
To tune you CAN use a SAFCII, but there is no way to quickly or automaticly switch maps, so you would have to deal with it being slower at WOT without nitrous. I believe the emanage has an optional button you can use to switch maps.
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From: Northern VA
Why is everyone talking about tuning the car when you install nitrous?? The only thing that you MIGHT have to adjust is the timing. Tuning your car around the nitrous system is stoopid.
You should be tuning the nitrous system itself. The A/F ratio that you tune your car for is nothing compared to what it looks like when you are spraying.
You tune your nitrous system based off your plugs, nothing else.
You should be tuning the nitrous system itself. The A/F ratio that you tune your car for is nothing compared to what it looks like when you are spraying.
You tune your nitrous system based off your plugs, nothing else.
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From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by SC-SUZUKA,Oct 27 2007, 02:23 PM
On my set up because it is direct port and i'm running four nozzles about 6 times.
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From: Under the sun
Originally Posted by Dark,Dec 13 2007, 12:15 PM
Why is everyone talking about tuning the car when you install nitrous?? The only thing that you MIGHT have to adjust is the timing. Tuning your car around the nitrous system is stoopid.
You should be tuning the nitrous system itself. The A/F ratio that you tune your car for is nothing compared to what it looks like when you are spraying.
You tune your nitrous system based off your plugs, nothing else.
You should be tuning the nitrous system itself. The A/F ratio that you tune your car for is nothing compared to what it looks like when you are spraying.
You tune your nitrous system based off your plugs, nothing else.
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From: No va
i ran a holley nos kit dry 55 shot 10lb bottle colder plugs arming switch WOT switch and i still have a BNIB msd digital window switch. the msd digital window switch will let you cut the nitrous off at redline so even if you mis-shift you won't blow it up. Let me know if you have any questions. I'd run the MSD if your only going to use the VAFC-II. Otherwise its the best bang for your buck modification i think. A full bottle will give you like 10 1/4 mile runs.
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From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by c_me_go,Dec 13 2007, 10:20 AM
that is what everyone is saying by tune... adjust the timing a/f raitio and some other key things you do when you put on a n2o. you cant just slap it on and expect it to run perfit
timing is what you adjust, not the a/f ratio.
you install a nitrous kit and you TUNE it by adjusting fuel jets/pills (and nitrous if needed but rarely). you make one run, in one gear (usually 3rd) and shut down right after your done. pull over, cool down, pull the plugs, and adjust from there.
its much easier to tune it on a dyno rather than on the street.