well, the topic title pretty much says it all, but do u think it would be ok to install arp headstuds just by removing the valve cover and cams and installing them while the head is still on the block? i would definitely remove the oem head bolts in quarter-turn increments as to avoid warping the head.

thanks

 

what whp are you looking for?

 

why do u want arp headstuds?... Is there a problem with your OEM ones?

 

OEM are just fine.....

 

380whp on dynojet, stock headgasket but with race gas. but it's a ctsc not a turbo so cylinder pressures won't be that bad.

 

It would probably be ok to do that if you remove one at a time in the same sequence as the manual states to torque. What i mean is, pull the first bolt that is supposed to be torqued first and put the stud in ad retorque it. Go one at a time all the way until the last one is done. I dont know for sure if its ok to do this but i would think it would be the best and safest to keep from breaking the seal.

 

This thread doesnt make any sense. There is no point in going to the ARP's and there is no difference in cylinder pressure with a turbo vs a supercharger at the same boost level.

 

This is not the safest way to do it. Doing it this way, you are effectively removing each bolt out of sequence (after the first), as the one before is being re-torqued. Each bolt effectively becomes the first bolt in the sequence, which is not correct.

If you remove them all in sequence, then re-install in the correct sequence, that would be best. I would only be worried about the Honda Bond that is around the timing chain case breaking, or any of the studs not getting seated properly...

John

 

people make 700whp on stock headbolts.....so why again do you want this?

 

Agreed, I am using oem bolts at 616 whp and 29 psi lol.