I also forgot to mention this happened more with the TWM itbs then the OEM intake manifold. Overall tho I know there was some leakage.

 

You referring to the Hondata leaking more with that intake manifold over the stock manifold?

 

only if its free? lol

Well after reading all these horror stories, i'm not so sure i want to change it now.
The only real reason I was thinking about it is, that I am thinking about pulling the IM off anyways and cleaning it out. I dont like the thought of there being oil from the PCV in there.

Also while it was off I was juggling around the idea of polishing the runners of the IM. Not sure how much this would help make power though. Was going to look more into this as the time came though.

 

ha! i was gonna mention we had a few in stock... mase beat me too it..

 

I have the Hondata IMG...no problems in two years

 

I have the Hondata. About 3000 NA Miles and a couple thousand with 6-8psi boosted miles.

I think its probably a bigger issue with high boost and turbo heat.

I used locktite on the hard to reach bolts and did not on the easy to tighten bolts. During my SC install I rechecked all the bolts and they were still all tight. Although after the first few heat cycles and going back to retorque I might have gone a teensy bit more than stock spec.

Does it do a lot? I don't know. I bought into the argument that it keeps intake temps cooler and you are less likely to experience knock so I did it. After a drive the intake manifold is noticable cooler vs when it was stock, but if you sit in stop and go traffic, or you turn the car off and it sits after a long run, it will still heatsoak like everything else under the hood.

5000 miles is probably not a good long term test but I have had no problems. If I ever do, I will go back to stock. I bought some a couple handy tools at sears and I could probably go back to stock with two hours of wrenching.

 

i have been running the p2r gasket along with the p2r TB spacer and gaskets for about two years now. roughly 20k miles and I have not had one single problem or complaint. i also have had p2r gaskets on the last 3 k motors i have had and again never a problem or issue.......here's a thread i posted a while back

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=585030&hl=

 

just spend the 55 and get the hondata

 

Do not use plastic gaskets!!! This is a copy of a earlier post I had made regarding the same issue. Plastic gaskets were obviously designed by some one with no engineering back ground.

What happens is that the pos plastic gasket can support some torque at lower temp's but as you increase temperature the creep rate of plastics skyrocket. So even if you do not overheat your motor, the plastic gasket will still creep and the bolts will appear loose, when in fact they have not moved at all, rather the shitty gasket has shrunk from material creep under torque.

And it gets worse, if you do overheat your motor, the plastic becomes liquid and begins to squeeze out of the gap between your head and IM, at this point water from your cooling system floods the closest cylinder and you destroy yout motor! Wow this plastic pos gasket is sounding better and better, huh. Especially for forced induction guys whose motors run hotter anyway!

That being said , I would never use this pos gasket, not even on my lawnmower. Just go back to the stock IM gasket, and call it a day. the 1 or 2 hp that this gasket makes is not worth the headaches.

For those of you who dont know what creep is here is the wiki link.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)

Notice in the article that plastics can creep at room temerature, just imagine what happens at 300 degrees!!

 

Enough said.