S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

ITB for Turbo

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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 03:15 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by 2QYK4U' date='Mar 21 2007, 08:26 AM
Very nice! I am thinking about going with that same setup.
Hey guys,


Aquamist ERL is best, I have mine installed for about a year now. Never tuned it after WI, but more for safety reasons. I'm using their System 2D too, easy to install, easy to operate. Mine is being set that I insert 50%/50% water/methanol when positive boost applies.

You should try to insert the water mist as much away from the chambers as possible, to give it more time to cool the inlet air.


Nice setup though, looks really interesting


Andreas
Old Mar 22, 2007 | 04:45 PM
  #72  
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^ Doesn't it not matter really as long as the water/meth mix is fully atomized? The real cooling comes from the heat absorbed by the water when it evaporates. That's my take at least.
Old Mar 22, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #73  
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I don't want this to turn into a water injection thread, so lets not go in that direction. Everything you would ever want to know about water injection can be found on the Aquamist forum.

Now, back on topic with a question. I'm having second thoughts about powder coating the plenum. My concern it that it might warp when heated to the 400 degrees required for the coating. Does anyone have any experience with powder coating? Is this a valid concern?

Here are some more pictures with the intake mounted on the engine.






Old Mar 22, 2007 | 06:11 PM
  #74  
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I can't imagine that it would warp anything so long as its heated and cooled uniformly which it should be.

If you are worried may I suggest a Jet-Hot sterling coat. It'll look SO good and it'll keep the heat out.
Old Mar 23, 2007 | 04:49 AM
  #75  
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400 degrees is not going to warp it noticably (i assume were talking *F) why do you have that neck down right infront of your turbo?
Old Mar 23, 2007 | 05:02 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by ideugene' date='Mar 22 2007, 06:11 PM
I can't imagine that it would warp anything so long as its heated and cooled uniformly which it should be.

If you are worried may I suggest a Jet-Hot sterling coat. It'll look SO good and it'll keep the heat out.
The Jet Hot coating requires heat far greater than 400*F. I sent my Full Race to HPC tor their 2000* F coating and it warped enough that I had to have the mounting flange machined flat.
Old Mar 23, 2007 | 05:05 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by penguins2001' date='Mar 23 2007, 04:49 AM
400 degrees is not going to warp it noticably (i assume were talking *F) why do you have that neck down right infront of your turbo?
The neckdown is for tubing for a cold air intake. Same as I had before.



Old Mar 23, 2007 | 05:06 AM
  #78  
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actually with the turbo powder coating or jet hot coating is more likely to keep the heat in, anodizing would probably be the better choice as far as performance (and looks imo) then you wont have to heat it and worry about warping
Old Mar 23, 2007 | 05:07 AM
  #79  
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that neck down is basically a restrictor, i doubt the cold air is worth it
Old Mar 23, 2007 | 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by penguins2001' date='Mar 23 2007, 05:06 AM
actually with the turbo powder coating or jet hot coating is more likely to keep the heat in, anodizing would probably be the better choice as far as performance (and looks imo) then you wont have to heat it and worry about warping
You are missing the point. I'm not talking about keeping heat in or out. I'm talking about putting a finish on the plenum for bling factor. The powder coat process heats the parts to 400*F. The Jet Hot process heats the part significantly hotter. The plenum mounts up to the ITB's flanges and seals with O rings. If the plenum warps, the O rings won't seal.



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