Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump vs 2 walbros
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From: USA
[QUOTE=tony1,Feb 15 2010, 01:11 PM] The Fuelab pumps have had more issues to date than any pump i've ever seen. I wouldn't even consider them until they get them figured out. Nice construction and idea, but they don't have them figured out yet, that's for sure.
The BAP is a great solution, assuming the pump has the pressure capability required to get the injector flow rate needed our of your injectors.
Here's a quick chart I threw together with some other ideas. I do not have the BAP route listed, but as Jeff has stated, and I agree, it is a good option for some situations.
The BAP is a great solution, assuming the pump has the pressure capability required to get the injector flow rate needed our of your injectors.
Here's a quick chart I threw together with some other ideas. I do not have the BAP route listed, but as Jeff has stated, and I agree, it is a good option for some situations.
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From: Around
Originally Posted by S2000_FUN,Nov 19 2010, 08:09 AM
Try to continue from where i left it
I have finally install the kenne bell boost a pump
The problem i have experienced is that with the car on idle (no boost) and the voltage regulator at 50% the kenne bell was working and was boosting the pump. At the beginnig i thought that the boost switch was not the 3psi switch but the naturally aspired one which was working without 3psi pressure. So i ordered a 3psi switch from Kenne Bell. Today i replaced the switch for the 3psi new one but the same thing is happening. With the car on idle as soon as i change the regulator switch from 0% to 50% the pumb is getting boosted. Shouldn't be the whole system activated under 3psi boost even if i have the voltage regulator continiously at 50%??
Please help me as i do not know what is wrong
Many Thanks
Chris
I have finally install the kenne bell boost a pump
The problem i have experienced is that with the car on idle (no boost) and the voltage regulator at 50% the kenne bell was working and was boosting the pump. At the beginnig i thought that the boost switch was not the 3psi switch but the naturally aspired one which was working without 3psi pressure. So i ordered a 3psi switch from Kenne Bell. Today i replaced the switch for the 3psi new one but the same thing is happening. With the car on idle as soon as i change the regulator switch from 0% to 50% the pumb is getting boosted. Shouldn't be the whole system activated under 3psi boost even if i have the voltage regulator continiously at 50%??
Please help me as i do not know what is wrong
Many Thanks
Chris
I was told, and read on a few different sites, most people (including myself) have it wired to be on all the time.
The only thing I have wired on w/the switch is my BAS.
Comes on @ ~3psi I think.
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Originally Posted by siadam,Nov 19 2010, 11:14 AM
How do you know it's getting kicked on?
I was told, and read on a few different sites, most people (including myself) have it wired to be on all the time.
The only thing I have wired on w/the switch is my BAS.
Comes on @ ~3psi I think.
I was told, and read on a few different sites, most people (including myself) have it wired to be on all the time.
The only thing I have wired on w/the switch is my BAS.
Comes on @ ~3psi I think.
Excuse me for my ignorance but what is the BAS stands for?
I know is getting kicked on cause as soon as i turn the voltage regulator from 0% to 50% i can hear the pump changing noise like an engine is revving more. Plus i measured the voltage in my pump and even on idle and the voltage regulator at 40% and is a bit more than 17volts even if i have connected the 3psi switch
If the pump is always feed with voltage even not under boost this will kill the walbro eventually. I always thought that the operation of the kenne bell is to boost the bump (gives lets say 17volts in the walbro) only when boost is above 3psi if you have connected the switch. So like that i can continiously set the voltage regulator let's say at 40% but the walbro will be boosted with voltage only when my boost is over 3psi. Shouldn't be like that? Cause is not happening in my car
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Do you have a meter to check for continuity on the pressure switch? It should be a open circuit.
Or crank the regulator to 50% again then disconnect one of the two wires from the pressure switch to the two wires that controls the on/off feature of the BAP. If one wire is disconnected and the BAP still runs then something is wrong with the BAP itself.
BTW you said you can hear the pump working stronger but can you hear the electrical noise of the BAP too? Its pretty loud when its on 50%.
Or crank the regulator to 50% again then disconnect one of the two wires from the pressure switch to the two wires that controls the on/off feature of the BAP. If one wire is disconnected and the BAP still runs then something is wrong with the BAP itself.
BTW you said you can hear the pump working stronger but can you hear the electrical noise of the BAP too? Its pretty loud when its on 50%.
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Originally Posted by EternalLx,Nov 20 2010, 09:42 AM
Do you have a meter to check for continuity on the pressure switch? It should be a open circuit.
Or crank the regulator to 50% again then disconnect one of the two wires from the pressure switch to the two wires that controls the on/off feature of the BAP. If one wire is disconnected and the BAP still runs then something is wrong with the BAP itself.
BTW you said you can hear the pump working stronger but can you hear the electrical noise of the BAP too? Its pretty loud when its on 50%.
Or crank the regulator to 50% again then disconnect one of the two wires from the pressure switch to the two wires that controls the on/off feature of the BAP. If one wire is disconnected and the BAP still runs then something is wrong with the BAP itself.
BTW you said you can hear the pump working stronger but can you hear the electrical noise of the BAP too? Its pretty loud when its on 50%.
I will do what you are saying with the wires in the pressure switch to check
About the BAP i cannot hear it at all cause i have it installed behind the rear panel of the drivers seat so while the car is working i cannot hear a thing
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From: Around
Originally Posted by S2000_FUN,Nov 19 2010, 02:43 PM
Thank you for your reply.
Excuse me for my ignorance but what is the BAS stands for?
I know is getting kicked on cause as soon as i turn the voltage regulator from 0% to 50% i can hear the pump changing noise like an engine is revving more. Plus i measured the voltage in my pump and even on idle and the voltage regulator at 40% and is a bit more than 17volts even if i have connected the 3psi switch
If the pump is always feed with voltage even not under boost this will kill the walbro eventually. I always thought that the operation of the kenne bell is to boost the bump (gives lets say 17volts in the walbro) only when boost is above 3psi if you have connected the switch. So like that i can continiously set the voltage regulator let's say at 40% but the walbro will be boosted with voltage only when my boost is over 3psi. Shouldn't be like that? Cause is not happening in my car
Excuse me for my ignorance but what is the BAS stands for?
I know is getting kicked on cause as soon as i turn the voltage regulator from 0% to 50% i can hear the pump changing noise like an engine is revving more. Plus i measured the voltage in my pump and even on idle and the voltage regulator at 40% and is a bit more than 17volts even if i have connected the 3psi switch
If the pump is always feed with voltage even not under boost this will kill the walbro eventually. I always thought that the operation of the kenne bell is to boost the bump (gives lets say 17volts in the walbro) only when boost is above 3psi if you have connected the switch. So like that i can continiously set the voltage regulator let's say at 40% but the walbro will be boosted with voltage only when my boost is over 3psi. Shouldn't be like that? Cause is not happening in my car
Mine is wired into a relay, and then from the relay pulled off the battery.
The 2 wires that come off the BAP, on mine are tied together, so it's always on....no adverse effects yet.
However, if you choose to use the hobbs switch, you wire both those wires into the switch, polarity is not important.
Then, you connect that to a vac/boost source, and you should be ok.
Is that how yours is?
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Bergen County, NJ
My walbro recently failed.. I dont have any proof that the BAP caused it tho.
It could be just a bad walbro or not idk.
I have my BAP wired ON all the time at 50%.
Daily driving it for a little over a year now (at least 2 hours a day) and the pump just stopped completely.
It could be just a bad walbro or not idk.
I have my BAP wired ON all the time at 50%.
Daily driving it for a little over a year now (at least 2 hours a day) and the pump just stopped completely.
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Guys thank you for your replies. Yesterday i found what was causing the problem. Call me stupid that i did not think of it early but my mind did not work that time. When they installed my BAP they put the 3psi switch on my Inline fuel rail instead of vacum 
Yesterday i went to measure the current again and for some reason i realised that it was meant to be installed for vacum not for fuel pressure. I know i am stupid i did not realise it earlier 
Siadam: thank you for your reply. I hope you have the regulator inside the car and you adjust the current in the walbro per your request cause if you have the pump continusly working over 5% it will fail eventually.
EternalLx: thank you for your reply too. If the walbro was working continusly at 50% then this is the reason it failed. Working continously at 17+ volts is killing it cause is getting hot very easy. I suggest you to put the 3psi switch or adjust the regulator as per you request when you need extra voltage in the pump. When i had mine working continously at 40% i experienced my dash lights blinking a bit due to lot of voltage going in the pump. Was this happening to you at all?
Yesterday i went to measure the current again and for some reason i realised that it was meant to be installed for vacum not for fuel pressure. I know i am stupid i did not realise it earlier Siadam: thank you for your reply. I hope you have the regulator inside the car and you adjust the current in the walbro per your request cause if you have the pump continusly working over 5% it will fail eventually.
EternalLx: thank you for your reply too. If the walbro was working continusly at 50% then this is the reason it failed. Working continously at 17+ volts is killing it cause is getting hot very easy. I suggest you to put the 3psi switch or adjust the regulator as per you request when you need extra voltage in the pump. When i had mine working continously at 40% i experienced my dash lights blinking a bit due to lot of voltage going in the pump. Was this happening to you at all?