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Knock Count

 
Old 02-14-2019, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by hatrickstu View Post
...Is your tuner faxing over new cal's too? Part of your tuner's job should be actually finding the knock frequency for your car so that the ECU can protect the engine before it's too late.
No, but he doesn't seem to be worried about it. Then again it's not his car, and maybe I'm just being overly paranoid. But if there is a problem and somebody else on this forum experienced a similar situation and reached a solution that's what I want to know. I just ordered another wideband so I'll be able to check my afr's again (until they foul out again) more accurately to play around with fuel.

due to the colder weather, it did start to run lean at cold startup and I could hear what sounded like misfires or popcorn popping warming up, but as soon as it warmed up it would be back to normal. My tuner said he could richen it but then it would idle really rich when warmed up. I'll play around with coolant temp fuel tables when my wideband comes in.


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Old 02-14-2019, 06:07 PM
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Get a bosch knock sensor and tune the frequency in the EMS by inducing knock on purpose. That sensor is much more reliable and what we use on sleeved motors as the stock sensor becomes useless at that point
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Old 02-15-2019, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mijae007 View Post
No, but he doesn't seem to be worried about it. Then again it's not his car, and maybe I'm just being overly paranoid. But if there is a problem and somebody else on this forum experienced a similar situation and reached a solution that's what I want to know. I just ordered another wideband so I'll be able to check my afr's again (until they foul out again) more accurately to play around with fuel.

due to the colder weather, it did start to run lean at cold startup and I could hear what sounded like misfires or popcorn popping warming up, but as soon as it warmed up it would be back to normal. My tuner said he could richen it but then it would idle really rich when warmed up. I'll play around with coolant temp fuel tables when my wideband comes in.
This wasn't directed at you, it was directed at the guy failing to acknowledge technology may be better than JUST LOOKIN AT IT.
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Old 02-15-2019, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Mijae007 View Post
How??? Can you give an example of a more accurate knock sensor? Or an alternate way to mount it? Or is this irrelevant information?

I honestly don't know know what is actually going on here. What's true? Knock does not occur at low load and only at wot so I shouldn't worry? Or should I be concerned with the knock counts being recorded at low load between 3000-4000rpm?

I've also read in previous threads that phantom/ghost knocks occur mainly over cyl 2 and 3 since the location of the knock sensor is in that vicinity. Which makes sense why all my knock counts are being recorded from cyl 2 and 3. What I don't get is the fact that I am getting knock counts now whereas I did not before. Maaaaaybe I just didnt notice them being recorded before...maybe.

So, should I be worried about this or no? And if yes, whats the solution?
Charper732 answered your question about the RIGHT solution. I mean you could ignore these and keep driving, but I wouldn't.

What I would do, aftermarket sensor or not, is to rule out what's a real knock and what isn't. You need to induce knock at low RPM & low load while listening with audio equipment. Get those headphones on, start a logging, get into 2k rpm, low load cell on the dyno, make sure to select neighboring cells too as ECU can pull from multiple data points. Now slowly start advance timing in the selected cells until it starts pinging, STOP. You've successfully collected frequency information from the log and you know it's real since you heard it.

You now know what's a true knock and it's frequency. Fiddle with knock sensitivity tables and knock retard.
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Old 02-15-2019, 08:28 PM
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Alright, I think I found the reason to my problem. Something is wrong with my fuel setup somewhere. I just installed a new AF sensor and its running lean. Actually fluctuating. Even at idle, it would go from around 14afr up to 18afr then back down to 14afr then back and forth. At cold start up the AFR was all over the place, bouncing from 10.5afr up to 20afr then back down again. Once warmed up, it was initially idling around 16-20afr. I added some fuel to the low fuel tables and got it down to 14-18afr. But it keeps fluctuating and wont hold steady at an ideal 14.5afr. I have a hunch one of my fuel injectors may be clogged or not functioning correctly. Any suggestions on what may be wrong?

This is probably why my car was knocking, it was probably running lean at low loads.
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Old 02-15-2019, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Mijae007 View Post
Alright, I think I found the reason to my problem. Something is wrong with my fuel setup somewhere. I just installed a new AF sensor and its running lean. Actually fluctuating. Even at idle, it would go from around 14afr up to 18afr then back down to 14afr then back and forth. At cold start up the AFR was all over the place, bouncing from 10.5afr up to 20afr then back down again. Once warmed up, it was initially idling around 16-20afr. I added some fuel to the low fuel tables and got it down to 14-18afr. But it keeps fluctuating and wont hold steady at an ideal 14.5afr. I have a hunch one of my fuel injectors may be clogged or not functioning correctly. Any suggestions on what may be wrong?

This is probably why my car was knocking, it was probably running lean at low loads.
if its a fuel issue related to one cylinder aka bad fuel injector, you should be able to get some confirming signs from the spark plug. Assuming your tuner set up your ecu to run closed loop 02 feedback (like stock) the afr should sweep, but not to the degree you are seeing. Typically 14.2ish to 15.5 is oem range. In your case it could be as simple as a vac leak somewhere, or something else such as a bad injector or something in the tune parameters. Pull the spark plugs and if you are not savvy at reading them, send us a pic of each one with making sure you document which goes to which cylinder.
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Old 02-15-2019, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky View Post
if its a fuel issue related to one cylinder aka bad fuel injector, you should be able to get some confirming signs from the spark plug. Assuming your tuner set up your ecu to run closed loop 02 feedback (like stock) the afr should sweep, but not to the degree you are seeing. Typically 14.2ish to 15.5 is oem range. In your case it could be as simple as a vac leak somewhere, or something else such as a bad injector or something in the tune parameters. Pull the spark plugs and if you are not savvy at reading them, send us a pic of each one with making sure you document which goes to which cylinder.
i checked a few days ago seemed normal to me. Ill pull them again to get your guys opinion. Where are some common areas of vac leaks i should start checking??
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Old 02-15-2019, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mijae007 View Post
i checked a few days ago seemed normal to me. Ill pull them again to get your guys opinion. Where are some common areas of vac leaks i should start checking??
Well considering the manifold is the vac generator simply speaking, id use this as your starting point, locating and tracing each point to its source, making sure you don't have a breach somewhere either from a bad hose, broken T fitting or detached from a component like a fpr or bov, boot gauge etc.
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Old 02-15-2019, 10:13 PM
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4

3

2

1
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Old 02-15-2019, 10:24 PM
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How do they look? Cyl4 looks a tad rich. Also it was just coldstarted and idled for 5mins or so.
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