I'd like to pass on 2 pieces of knowledge about the Vortech which I really wish I'd known about before I went this route.

I'll keep this updated as I learn more, and welcome others' input as well re: known weak links and fixes with this basically well-engineered kit.

Additional supporting evidence from JWKIM posted Jun 9 2006:

1. VTEC Solenoid Bolts: These long, thin bolts tend to shear off in the block and have to be drilled out using an easy-out. They need to be replaced with titanium bolts. See fig. 8-o and page 22, section 8-T of your install manual. It's 3 M6x1.0x80(!) bolts.

Additional info:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry7832498

The Fix:

http://www.racebolts.com/index.php?main_pa...products_id=201


2. Bolt for factory idler pulley: Another very long, thin bolt (compared to its length) that eventually tends to strip out. The bolt is m10x1.25x115(!). There is tremendous force being concentrated into this thin bolt, and the Aluminum threads of the block are not up to the task long-term. See fig. 8-o and page 22, section 8-S of your install manual.

The Fix:

Sorry, but I'm having a Time-Sert put in the factory bolt-hole (for the idler pulley) to strengthen this weak area. This should prevent future stripping. I know of no other way to fix this rather fundamental weakness.

http://www.timesert.com/

The results of a poll from 2 years ago on these two issues:

No broken bolts, checked today [21.74%]
Yes I have broken the bolt(s) [34.78%]
No, I have not checked [30.43%]
Yes, I broke the idler pulley bolt [4.35%]
Yes, I broke the idler pulley bolt and Vtec solonoid bolts too. [8.70%]

 

Been there... done that. Nice little FYI.

 

You've had those problems Danks2k?

I never had those problems. I had someone "help" me and over tightened the vtec bolts and snap one. But you can usually back the broken bolt by hand. If you overtighten a bolt, expect it to break.

 

I replaced those VTEC bolts as those looks dangerous and there was a suggestion on here to replace, I have piece of mind now.

The other bolt though is pretty big, I wouldn't think it would be an issue but I guess it is....

 

There is a Vortech kit that I know of that has been on 4 cars, and never had any of these bolts fail or strip. The key is to follow the tightening sequence listed by Vortech.

 

I do not want this thread to degenerate into a debate on whether or not the Vortech is a good kit, or if these problems exist. The idea is to report *your* experiences in order to build up some idea what the weak points of the kit may be. If enough people report the exact same issue, there's likely a problem.

Just because you know about one really good kit that was perfectly installed each time - doesn't mean everyone else will be as lucky.

However, your point is well taken and illustrates what may be variability in either the quality of the installation or the parts used, or...about a million other potential variables. I suspect we may be dealing with harmonic vibrations which vary from car to car.

All I know is this:

I have received multiple IM's from Vortech owners who needed the Ti bolts after their VTEC solenoid gaskets started leaking.

The above measures ensure these problems will *never* happen. The issue with the m10x1.25x115 bolt is unique to me so far as I know (correction - see 1st post with info from JWKIM back in 2006). I do not believe that the tuner simply over-torqued the bolt. It is possible, of course.

And here is my key point: Knowing this, I do believe that new owners of the Vortech would be well advised to at least think about reinforcing the 2 areas noted, rather than trust that these issues are simply the result of faulty installation (something which, unless they are doing it themselves, will be largely beyond their control).

In any case, my kit was installed by an experienced tuner, who followed everything to the letter. They run the fastest street class Honda in the USA, and have had many cars on the cover of DSport in particular. I trust what they say, and they say that the Vortech's bracket design and fasteners are asking for trouble.

BTW, I am also running higher impeller RPM than stock (4.5" pulley on an AP1 kit), pushing 9psi, and using AEM EMS. I am the 3rd owner of the kit. Perhaps these additional variables are germane to the issue.

BTW, here is the tightening sequence to which you refer:

W.
Secure the completed mounting bracket assem-
bly to the engine by lightly

 

My point is that these are parts that have failed on some kits, not all, and the guy installing the bolt is the biggest variable. ( I installed the 1 kit I'm talking about all but 1 time)

It's a pretty bold statement to declare a defect when many have had no issues.

 

But this issue has occurred to quite a few members.

JWKIM posted up about this a few years back and he got bashed a bit by a few members who pointed out that it had to be his installation. The same members who bashed him were making similar posts to these about the bolts breaking on them. My first blower was installed by Spugen who did quite a few Vortechs and I had two bolts break.

 

Compared to how many kits sold? And of those that did fail, how many had much smaller pulleys equipped? How many where on used kits may or may not have be tightened correctly?

Too many variables to call it a defect. If you don't tighten the brackets in sequence it will leak. If you over tighten the bolts they will break. If someone before you over tightened the bolts they will break later.

 

Mine was stock pulley and a know quite a few others were as well. You act like it is a complicated sequence such as installing a head or something. Doesn't take a brain surgeon to snug 4 bolts in no particular order.

I believe it is more a driving issue. If you drive the car hard they can break.