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Don't buy the ARP idler pulley stud!!!! The ARP stud seams great because it is longer and has a non threaded section, don't be fooled. The non threaded section IS smaller in diameter than the threaded section. I slid the pulleys on it and there is a lot of slop, not good! If I could buy the same ARP stud ALL ThREADED then I think it would be excellent!
Oh crap, really? That's messed up man....I apologize for posting that in here then; I'm simply regurgitating info from various sources. That one in particular comes from the KW Facebook group. I reached out in there asking if anyone is actually using the stud, or if someone just decided to speculate. What sucks too is you can't machine a sleeve with a smaller ID to match the shank as it won't be able to clear the threads.....
I actually personally have a few of those studs myself on hand as I was gathering a lot of the stuff necessary to install the kit soon (I don't have the kit yet). I'll dig them out and see if mine are the same and I'll take some measurements with a caliper. There's actually another stud that looks to be something that will definitely work. Part number is AM4.500-2B. It has an M10x1.25 thread on one end and an M10x1.50 thread on the other; as long as you get an M10x1.50 flange nut you should be fine. Here's a pic of that one.
From what I can tell it looks like they started with a smooth rod and then added threading, so the thread pitch diameters are essentially the same diameter as the shank itself. I feel really bad you went ahead and bought that stud and it's a no-go....I thought the stud was recommended out of practice from the FB group. If you want I'd be willing to order that stud and get some measurements off of it if you'd be interested? If all else fails you could just use the threaded rod supplied with the kit; just use the method LHT uses to get the proper installation length, if they use it then it should be plenty fine, but a proper alternative would also be nice. Not sure what kind of timeframe you have.
All part of the process man, no sweat! I can return it easily enough to Amazon, not a big deal at all. I test fit the stud that comes in the kit and I get a full 7 threads of engagement utilizing the LHT method so it should be fine.
Oh crap, really? That's messed up man....I apologize for posting that in here then; I'm simply regurgitating info from various sources. That one in particular comes from the KW Facebook group. I reached out in there asking if anyone is actually using the stud, or if someone just decided to speculate. What sucks too is you can't machine a sleeve with a smaller ID to match the shank as it won't be able to clear the threads.....
I actually personally have a few of those studs myself on hand as I was gathering a lot of the stuff necessary to install the kit soon (I don't have the kit yet). I'll dig them out and see if mine are the same and I'll take some measurements with a caliper. There's actually another stud that looks to be something that will definitely work. Part number is AM4.500-2B. It has an M10x1.25 thread on one end and an M10x1.50 thread on the other; as long as you get an M10x1.50 flange nut you should be fine. Here's a pic of that one.
From what I can tell it looks like they started with a smooth rod and then added threading, so the thread pitch diameters are essentially the same diameter as the shank itself. I feel really bad you went ahead and bought that stud and it's a no-go....I thought the stud was recommended out of practice from the FB group. If you want I'd be willing to order that stud and get some measurements off of it if you'd be interested? If all else fails you could just use the threaded rod supplied with the kit; just use the method LHT uses to get the proper installation length, if they use it then it should be plenty fine, but a proper alternative would also be nice. Not sure what kind of timeframe you have.
Looks a lot like the long spacer bolts on my Vortech V2 kit. They scare me lol. Always think that they might screw up (no pun intended) the threads they're going into. If sticking to torque specs that shouldn't be a problem and a drop of Loctite goes a long way with these kind of high load bolts. I may or may not need one or two more of those come time for install. Just need to make sure that all the required bolts/spacers aren't missing.
Looks a lot like the long spacer bolts on my Vortech V2 kit. They scare me lol. Always think that they might screw up (no pun intended) the threads they're going into. If sticking to torque specs that shouldn't be a problem and a drop of Loctite goes a long way with these kind of high load bolts. I may or may not need one or two more of those come time for install. Just need to make sure that all the required bolts/spacers aren't missing.
You can definitely screw up by screwing these in too far, they'll punch a hole through to the other side if you go too far. As far as I know the stud is just threaded in by hand with Loctite on it. All of the torque is being applied to the nut pressing against the mounting plate of the supercharger. When I do my install with a longer stud (if I can find a proper one), I'll most likely thread it all the way in and back it off 1/2 a turn or so.
I'm still resolute on finding a longer stud, I like the higher durability of the ARP stuff, but I think LHT have proven it's not necessary for this particular piece...BUT, if you could get a longer stud, wouldn't that be ideal for more thread engagement into the block with the lateral loads being placed on it? Maybe it really doesn't matter....or taking it a step further maybe KW left it short for the very reason of not wanting to go too far into the block?
Anyways I ordered a different stud. The AM4.500-2B I can't seem to find anywhere online in stock. I'm sure if I contacted ARP directly I'd be able to get one...But I was able to locate a slightly longer one, the AM4.600-1LB which seems to have the same width as the threads and is only 1/10th of an inch or 2.5mm longer.
Here's the stock photos of that one. Seeing as these studs are for specific applications, the part number indicating that the stud is just longer might not be the whole story. So realistically the AM4.500-1LB and AM4.600-1LB may have other dimensional factors other than length. I ordered one to check out and get some measurements off of. When I do my install I plan on making a definitive thread. If I can't find an easy solution I'll just stick with the KW supplied threaded rod. I haven't seen that as a point of failure anyway, it's more of just a peace of mind thing.
Here's a picture of the AM4.600-1LB. It has an M10x1.25 thread on one side, but an M10x1.5 on the other. Solution? Just get an M10x1.5 flange nut as you really only need the m10x1.25 on just the block side. I ordered this stud and nut, I'll get some dimensional checks on it with some calipers as well as the AM4.500-1LBs I have. This definitely looks different from the AM4.500LB on Amazon in terms of shank width.
If anyone would like me to send you this stud after I get it so you can test it yourselves I'd be more than happy to. I'll cover the shipping cost and you can keep the stud. Confirmation is worth the price of a $12 piece of hardware lol. If it fits or needs the hole through the collar to be slightly enlarged I'd be happy to know; otherwise we'll just leave this part alone.
I'll definitely be doing so. Not too many places in CT that I trust, closest is probably Jeff Evans, but he's 3 hours away in PA. I'm converting my car to KPro, etc. Be much easier to just hit you up for a basemap to get it running and e-tune on the road vs on a dyno imo.
You can definitely screw up by screwing these in too far, they'll punch a hole through to the other side if you go too far. As far as I know the stud is just threaded in by hand with Loctite on it. All of the torque is being applied to the nut pressing against the mounting plate of the supercharger. When I do my install with a longer stud (if I can find a proper one), I'll most likely thread it all the way in and back it off 1/2 a turn or so.
I'm still resolute on finding a longer stud, I like the higher durability of the ARP stuff, but I think LHT have proven it's not necessary for this particular piece...BUT, if you could get a longer stud, wouldn't that be ideal for more thread engagement into the block with the lateral loads being placed on it? Maybe it really doesn't matter....or taking it a step further maybe KW left it short for the very reason of not wanting to go too far into the block?
Anyways I ordered a different stud. The AM4.500-2B I can't seem to find anywhere online in stock. I'm sure if I contacted ARP directly I'd be able to get one...But I was able to locate a slightly longer one, the AM4.600-1LB which seems to have the same width as the threads and is only 1/10th of an inch or 2.5mm longer.
Here's the stock photos of that one. Seeing as these studs are for specific applications, the part number indicating that the stud is just longer might not be the whole story. So realistically the AM4.500-1LB and AM4.600-1LB may have other dimensional factors other than length. I ordered one to check out and get some measurements off of. When I do my install I plan on making a definitive thread. If I can't find an easy solution I'll just stick with the KW supplied threaded rod. I haven't seen that as a point of failure anyway, it's more of just a peace of mind thing.
Here's a picture of the AM4.600-1LB. It has an M10x1.25 thread on one side, but an M10x1.5 on the other. Solution? Just get an M10x1.5 flange nut as you really only need the m10x1.25 on just the block side. I ordered this stud and nut, I'll get some dimensional checks on it with some calipers as well as the AM4.500-1LBs I have. This definitely looks different from the AM4.500LB on Amazon in terms of shank width.
If anyone would like me to send you this stud after I get it so you can test it yourselves I'd be more than happy to. I'll cover the shipping cost and you can keep the stud. Confirmation is worth the price of a $12 piece of hardware lol. If it fits or needs the hole through the collar to be slightly enlarged I'd be happy to know; otherwise we'll just leave this part alone.
That's the thing I'd be concerned about too - a bolt going too far deep into the block/timing chain cover. When under load at 9k rpm you can imagine the stress/havoc it may wreak on that specific section of threads causing them to strip out and then eventually back the bolt out. I've seen an issue with the bolt spacer that goes between the L bracket and stock idler pulley - the bolt can back out if it gets stripped and when it does that it will slip the OEM serpentine belt and fray then snap it...that sucks.
The blower is quite a weighty piece of kit up front so I really believe a torque damper or our favourite Spoon hard rubber mounts would help keep things nice and stiff/stable up front minimising stress on the mounting points.
Nice research on the studs mate. ARP is top quality so if you can, go for it. Peace of mind thing as you say but if the KW one is good enough then, save the $ and invest it elsewhere
You can definitely screw up by screwing these in too far, they'll punch a hole through to the other side if you go too far. As far as I know the stud is just threaded in by hand with Loctite on it. All of the torque is being applied to the nut pressing against the mounting plate of the supercharger. When I do my install with a longer stud (if I can find a proper one), I'll most likely thread it all the way in and back it off 1/2 a turn or so.
I'm still resolute on finding a longer stud, I like the higher durability of the ARP stuff, but I think LHT have proven it's not necessary for this particular piece...BUT, if you could get a longer stud, wouldn't that be ideal for more thread engagement into the block with the lateral loads being placed on it? Maybe it really doesn't matter....or taking it a step further maybe KW left it short for the very reason of not wanting to go too far into the block?
Anyways I ordered a different stud. The AM4.500-2B I can't seem to find anywhere online in stock. I'm sure if I contacted ARP directly I'd be able to get one...But I was able to locate a slightly longer one, the AM4.600-1LB which seems to have the same width as the threads and is only 1/10th of an inch or 2.5mm longer.
Here's the stock photos of that one. Seeing as these studs are for specific applications, the part number indicating that the stud is just longer might not be the whole story. So realistically the AM4.500-1LB and AM4.600-1LB may have other dimensional factors other than length. I ordered one to check out and get some measurements off of. When I do my install I plan on making a definitive thread. If I can't find an easy solution I'll just stick with the KW supplied threaded rod. I haven't seen that as a point of failure anyway, it's more of just a peace of mind thing.
Here's a picture of the AM4.600-1LB. It has an M10x1.25 thread on one side, but an M10x1.5 on the other. Solution? Just get an M10x1.5 flange nut as you really only need the m10x1.25 on just the block side. I ordered this stud and nut, I'll get some dimensional checks on it with some calipers as well as the AM4.500-1LBs I have. This definitely looks different from the AM4.500LB on Amazon in terms of shank width.
If anyone would like me to send you this stud after I get it so you can test it yourselves I'd be more than happy to. I'll cover the shipping cost and you can keep the stud. Confirmation is worth the price of a $12 piece of hardware lol. If it fits or needs the hole through the collar to be slightly enlarged I'd be happy to know; otherwise we'll just leave this part alone.
Ill confirm this for you - Ill PM you my address and I can paypal you a few bucks too if it works!
I'll definitely be doing so. Not too many places in CT that I trust, closest is probably Jeff Evans, but he's 3 hours away in PA. I'm converting my car to KPro, etc. Be much easier to just hit you up for a basemap to get it running and e-tune on the road vs on a dyno imo.
01-26-2019, 08:09 PM
