That many overlapping forums in here I'm not sure which I should have posted it in so I'll try again, sorry about the replica posts

Been lurking for a while but as I'm contemplating an S2000 motor with an Eaton M90 strapped onto it for an engine swap, I thought I'd finally start asking for some advice.

Current plan is a pretty much stock motor, standalone ECU, M90 @ 6psi of boost allied to small air-air intercooler. I've already got cooling sorted with a radiator designed for a 600bhp skyline and an oil cooler from a large tractor....

Now, I've had a look around at other supercharger threads but I just want to confirm a few things:

1) The stock injectors should be okay it seems with enough fuel pressure, however would I be better running twin injector sets?
2) Dry sump seems to pretty much be a must have for serious use?
3) Everyone up to about 400-500bhp seems to be on stock internals/bearings/ etc, just with varying compression ratios to match the boost levels, now, I won't be pushing the power that far, but this motor needs to be ABSOLUTELY bulletproof under serious abuse - is there anything you would suggest I alter or change right from the get go? I'm thinking a 8krpm rev limit would keep it on the safe side for fatigue reasons with the boost, lots of the road cars seem to keep the 9krpm limiter - is anyone boosted still using the 9krpm limiter with the engine under long-term high rpm use?
4) I'll probably build a tubular exhaust for it, worth putting the intake on throttle bodies at the same time, or leave it?
5) Does the stock water pump/alternator require underdriving for sustained high-rpm use?
6) I have some D585 ignition coils to hand, worth using over the standard Honda coils?

And of course...
7) What happens when I get bored and turn it up to 12psi?

 

1. You won't be able to use stock injectors. You'll be looking at some 650's. I don't know of a M90 setup in an S2000. What standalone are you using?
2. A dry sump won't be required.
3. What is the primary purpose of this engine combo? Tuning is key on one hand, but on the other so is controlling temperature. Engine oil, intake air, and coolants temps are always an issue in boosted tracking applications. Even the best build engine with rough tuning won't live and the same goes for one with high engine oil temps.
4. ITB's would be a plus, but that money could be used elsewhere.
5. No. There have been some broken water pump pulleys here and there. It is unknown why though.
6. Standard coils should be good at your projected power level.
7. I'm not sure how well your cooler will work, but eatons tend to make more heat than power over the 12psi mark.

Got any pictures of this setup? I'd like to see how the M90 is mounted. I'm guessing this isn't going into an S2000 either.

 

No, not in an s2000, hence the massive radiators and oil coolers - temperature control won't be an issue.

1 - Would you recommend running 650's in the stock location or twin sets of stock injectors? Gut feeling says the twin sets may work out better as I can mount the second set upstream, but I can't see anyone that's tried it so far?
ECU side will be handled by a DTA S80.

2 - I keep seeing both baffled sumps and plenty of dry sumps available, is the stock system that good?

3 - Endurance race abuse (think Dakar type events) hence it must be reliable at high RPM's for long periods, including holding high rpms in one gear for a long time when slugging it up sandy/muddy hills, etc. Also means the occasion slog from 2-3krpm in the muddy hairpins, hence the choice of a Roots unit.

4 - I happen to have a set on the shelf that would do nicely, probably overkill for a boosted app though.

5 - I'll stick it on some billet pulleys then, thanks, usually have to slow the accessories down!

6 - Bingo, saves some hassle.

7 - Damn, better stick to 11psi then


Thanks for the help!

 

ID1000 injectors are proven to work. Why run any less?

 

Are you from the UK and where are you getting your DTA mapped?

 

Yeah, UK based, not certain yet but probably do the base map then let Sandy Brown refine it
.

 

Why pay out for things you don't need?
It's a budget build, if a 2 sets of stock injectors will do the job, fabrication work costs me next to nothing....


Anyway, it sounds like there's no real basic issues I need to sort out first with this sort of setup?
Will the motor take 6psi with sensible charge temperatures without dropping the compression ratio (will be on 99 octane (UK) fuel), I'm guessing much more will need a drop given the high CR from the start, but it looks like most people at this boost level are running standard compression?

 

What are u using to tune?

I ran a mp62.

For mp90 or m90 run id1000. Stockers won't flow even two sets. Your complicating something that doesn't need to be complicated.

I ran 10 psi on my stock motor. U should make more then I. Air to air with v mount would be nice.

Your big issue is mounting the blower and getting it to spin. Then getting air in and out of it. Focus on those two things first. Injectors and tuning are the easy parts.

 

Hoy, stop spending my beer money on injectors
ID1000's are the best part of £400 to get a set of over here, I'll rig something up if the stock ones won't do, I'm basically just wanting around the 300bhp area, any more will be a bit of a waste as it won't put it down (but hey, if it makes more I won't complain...), but I might put the motor in the next car too, which will have more traction, so building it to push 380-400 or so without changing much would be the ideal aim.


It's on a DTA standalone, tuning won't be much of an issue, neither will mounting the blower!
Intercooler will be air to air and fed with it's own air scoop/ducted fans, so that should be fine.

 

Okay, if the flow rates I've found on the 'net are right two sets of stock injectors at 4.5 bar should be fine duty-cycle wise up to about 400bhp (crank), even allowing for the richer tune on boost, so I might try that, at least having a set upstream should improve the fuel mixing once it gets up the rpm range.

Looks like 300bhp at the crank should be easy on about 5psi too so long as I keep the intake charge temperatures sensible?

Is it worth me uprating to ARP rod bolts while the motor is apart from fresh bearings or will the standard Honda units be fine?