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Low power due to heat?

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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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Default Low power due to heat?

Had a recent retune because I was pinging and power went way the hell down.

Dyno showed 8.8lbs and only 310Rwhp, Tony said he had to remove alot of timing due to knock. Trying to figure out where the hell all my power went to, it was @ 350 last time with the exact same setup, I dont get it. Main difference now is that its summer and hot as hell out, im sure I had a huge deal of heat soak due to driving in morning rush hour traffic to get to UMS and it was a very warm day out, but to lose that much power?

Currently running the Novi 1200 with a 4.4'' pulley registering @ 8.8lbs ID 725 injectors and Kpro. I want to put in the 4.2'' pulley but not until things get sorted out here.

Any suggestions or is this normal with the shift in heat? Seems I lost most of the power due to timing being taken out due to knock... Plugs are good, I just changed them out after the dyno and they all looked healthy.

I was hoping to hit 400 with the new pulley but FFS I gotta find out why I took this dip
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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Some questions... What heat exchanger are you running? Have you logged your IAT's? Is your diverter valve recirculated back into the SC? Have you checked the water / coolant in your heat exchanger? Have you checked to make sure the water pump was working to circulate the water / coolant through the aftercooler? Pics of how it's plumbed?
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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Same dyno as last time? If not what kinda of dynos were they both?
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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The aftercooler is using the SoS upgraded heat exchanger and it is plumbed correctly, water flow is good. Im using the OEM anitfreeze in there and plan to drain it for distilled water and water wetter.

I am using the Godzilla BOV and it does not recirculate. My IATs reach 170+ in stop and go traffic and will come down to 130 on the highway with ambient 100+

It was tuned and measured at UMS, I believe they have a dynojet. It has been done at the same place every time.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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^I believe UMS uses a Dynapack dyno.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 11:54 AM
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Heat soak is a power-killer, no ifs ands or buts about it.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by itlynstalyn
Heat soak is a power-killer, no ifs ands or buts about it.
Ya thats what im going to go with... the tuner told me this is typical for the 91 piss water gas we have out here and the f@#king summers that make hell seem like the arctic... fuk az and its heat..........
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by egprelude
^I believe UMS uses a Dynapack dyno.
Correct, I just found the dyno print out. Definitely a Dynapack
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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Sounds like you've got a good setup. Mine is similar except I'm still using the Bosch diverter valve (venting to atmosphere). My last pull was on a low 90's day and my tuner was surprised at how low my IAT's were on the dyno.

The next thing I'd suggest is a cold air intake. I'm looking into solutions for that myself.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Torque Obsessed
Sounds like you've got a good setup. Mine is similar except I'm still using the Bosch diverter valve (venting to atmosphere). My last pull was on a low 90's day and my tuner was surprised at how low my IAT's were on the dyno.

The next thing I'd suggest is a cold air intake. I'm looking into solutions for that myself.
Ya I was wondering the same myself, the air filter on the supercharger is a HUGE AFE filter that just sits in the engine bay, sucks up alot of nasty heat. Was almost considering reinstalling the CT box and then sealing it off from the engine bay and running an intake line to it to help reduce temps alittle.

Has anyone tried to insulate the aftercooler? It is so severely prone to heat soak...

I just got the SoS 4.2"" pulley that should give roughly 11.5 lbs, the Berk HFC 65.3 MM is the next mod on the plate
the plate, but just want to get the intake temps under control. Id be at 350 if it werent for all the timing we had to pull
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